Toyota Sienna AWD - Rear Viscous Coupler
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Date: 2024-10-17
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Comments and reviews: 20
redmondjp
I LOL'd at the POR-15 can-opening comment! So I have to tell how to avoid that: if you have a partial can of it left over, do this: take a piece of saran wrap from the kitchen, and lay it over the open can. Then carefully push it down into the can until the plastic touches the surface of the liquid, and then form the plastic from the center outward and then along the insides of the can, getting all of the air out between the liquid and the plastic, while keeping the outside edges of the plastic wrap outside of the can. Then tap the lid on over the plastic. This does two things: 1) it keeps the air away from the liquid which makes it last a lot longer, and 2) it keeps the lid from getting stuck on.
Oh, Eric, I sent you a care package for your hydraulic press that you will LOVE. Someone sent one to Rainman Ray in Florida and he showed it on his video so I bought myself one, and liked it so much that one is on its way to you. It's small, made in America, and will make using your press much easier.
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I LOL'd at the POR-15 can-opening comment! So I have to tell how to avoid that: if you have a partial can of it left over, do this: take a piece of saran wrap from the kitchen, and lay it over the open can. Then carefully push it down into the can until the plastic touches the surface of the liquid, and then form the plastic from the center outward and then along the insides of the can, getting all of the air out between the liquid and the plastic, while keeping the outside edges of the plastic wrap outside of the can. Then tap the lid on over the plastic. This does two things: 1) it keeps the air away from the liquid which makes it last a lot longer, and 2) it keeps the lid from getting stuck on.
Oh, Eric, I sent you a care package for your hydraulic press that you will LOVE. Someone sent one to Rainman Ray in Florida and he showed it on his video so I bought myself one, and liked it so much that one is on its way to you. It's small, made in America, and will make using your press much easier.
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baldingpickle8988
Hey Mr. O, I have a question as to if you’ve ever had a customer with an issue like the one in my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4. 7 V8, it has 301, 1XX miles and during the summer time or any time the temperature exceeds 70 degrees outside it has a random multiple cylinder misfire. One day I thought I smelt coolant coming from my engine bay and I was with a friend, he hopped out when I popped my hood and started looking for a leak while I put on my hazards. As soon as I did we both heard the power distribution center fuses start randomly clicking, and they were clicking fast. My motor started to misfire and would get as low as 400 rpm’s and would somehow stay alive. I’ve also had an issue where it would have a terrible multiple cylinder, if not all cylinders misfiring. Sometimes that lasts for a few seconds to only half a second. But the throttle will completely cut out and my rpm’s drop to 400-500 rpm, only for it to die soon after.
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Hey Mr. O, I have a question as to if you’ve ever had a customer with an issue like the one in my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4. 7 V8, it has 301, 1XX miles and during the summer time or any time the temperature exceeds 70 degrees outside it has a random multiple cylinder misfire. One day I thought I smelt coolant coming from my engine bay and I was with a friend, he hopped out when I popped my hood and started looking for a leak while I put on my hazards. As soon as I did we both heard the power distribution center fuses start randomly clicking, and they were clicking fast. My motor started to misfire and would get as low as 400 rpm’s and would somehow stay alive. I’ve also had an issue where it would have a terrible multiple cylinder, if not all cylinders misfiring. Sometimes that lasts for a few seconds to only half a second. But the throttle will completely cut out and my rpm’s drop to 400-500 rpm, only for it to die soon after.
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mariosaccoccio1688
Total waste of my time.
But I loved every minute of it!
I actually miss the old days of working in the machine shop, fixin' stuff.
But not too much! Great job, fixin' that carrier thingy, it reminds me of the thing an old parts rebuilder told me, if it can be built, it could be rebuilt! He was one of the first rebuilder to remanufactur the rack & pinion. TRW said it had to be replaced. He said, watch me!
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Total waste of my time.
But I loved every minute of it!
I actually miss the old days of working in the machine shop, fixin' stuff.
But not too much! Great job, fixin' that carrier thingy, it reminds me of the thing an old parts rebuilder told me, if it can be built, it could be rebuilt! He was one of the first rebuilder to remanufactur the rack & pinion. TRW said it had to be replaced. He said, watch me!
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llloyd4
Well, a cynic's answer Toyota is in the business to sell cars, not parts. Once a car is past the warranty they want you to buy a new car, and if you don't, make it painful to the point where you'll decide that the $2k for a coupler plus labor is more painful than just signing your life away on a new car, and if you do decide the car is worth $2k, they still make money on the coupler and, hopefully, labor to replace it.
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Well, a cynic's answer Toyota is in the business to sell cars, not parts. Once a car is past the warranty they want you to buy a new car, and if you don't, make it painful to the point where you'll decide that the $2k for a coupler plus labor is more painful than just signing your life away on a new car, and if you do decide the car is worth $2k, they still make money on the coupler and, hopefully, labor to replace it.
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pvdbxz3247
Good job!
Recently had a worn out joint on my rear driveshaft for my 4wd Toyota Urban Cruiser (Europe spec. Toyota suggested a complete driveshaft for a mere $3. 000 plus labor, no separate parts available. Luckily I found a specialist willing to swap the one bad joint and balance it for a quarter of the Toyota money.
Always a good idea to question replacement of expensive parts versus fixing it.
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Good job!
Recently had a worn out joint on my rear driveshaft for my 4wd Toyota Urban Cruiser (Europe spec. Toyota suggested a complete driveshaft for a mere $3. 000 plus labor, no separate parts available. Luckily I found a specialist willing to swap the one bad joint and balance it for a quarter of the Toyota money.
Always a good idea to question replacement of expensive parts versus fixing it.
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bartlipetri6895
Yes i remember an older video on this, possibly a matrix I found it around the time my 2008 RAV4 had this problem at 150k. Dealership was obtuse diagnosing it. This is where your video helped me understand the problem. Stealership basically wanted to do a 5k transmission swap. Think the part was $1. 1k at the time. Alls well that ends well. Happened on my GFs RAV4 too around 180k.
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Yes i remember an older video on this, possibly a matrix I found it around the time my 2008 RAV4 had this problem at 150k. Dealership was obtuse diagnosing it. This is where your video helped me understand the problem. Stealership basically wanted to do a 5k transmission swap. Think the part was $1. 1k at the time. Alls well that ends well. Happened on my GFs RAV4 too around 180k.
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RobertSayer1970
Have a question for you. I have an 2014 tundra with 253, 000 miles. Lately the transmission seams like it won’t go into reverse. Than other days it’s just fine. Had a service done at the dealership on transmission. We’re down here in Sarasota where Milton hit in Florida and I need this truck for a few more months for work. Any idea on what I can do to make it work for me
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Have a question for you. I have an 2014 tundra with 253, 000 miles. Lately the transmission seams like it won’t go into reverse. Than other days it’s just fine. Had a service done at the dealership on transmission. We’re down here in Sarasota where Milton hit in Florida and I need this truck for a few more months for work. Any idea on what I can do to make it work for me
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NurseRobert
A couple of grand to fix a part you replaced for a few bucks. Dealers will screw you over every chance they get. I have a '14 Altima. Managed to rip the passenger side mirror off. Dealer wanted $900 bucks to replace. Bought a replacement part online, came painted, wired and ready to go. Paid 50 bucks for it. 30 minutes later had it installed. Dealer said, oh well.
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A couple of grand to fix a part you replaced for a few bucks. Dealers will screw you over every chance they get. I have a '14 Altima. Managed to rip the passenger side mirror off. Dealer wanted $900 bucks to replace. Bought a replacement part online, came painted, wired and ready to go. Paid 50 bucks for it. 30 minutes later had it installed. Dealer said, oh well.
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autorepair
It's all about the percentage of markup on a $900 item over a $40 item. When Dodge went broke and came out of it they would align a car and use bolts to lock it in place. The first time it needed aligning the customer had to pay for the alignment bolt which saved Dodge. 60 a corner over 1000's of cars. That's why they don't want to sell u-joints just drive shafts.
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It's all about the percentage of markup on a $900 item over a $40 item. When Dodge went broke and came out of it they would align a car and use bolts to lock it in place. The first time it needed aligning the customer had to pay for the alignment bolt which saved Dodge. 60 a corner over 1000's of cars. That's why they don't want to sell u-joints just drive shafts.
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ddk80
Thanks for the awesome video! I recently saw the video where you changed the bearing in a Pontiac Vibe (9 years ago, and you went to town with a hammer to get the dust shield back on in a matter of seconds. That video helped me replace the bearing on my 09 RAV4. When the bearing goes out on my wife’s AWD Siena, I now have another great source.
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Thanks for the awesome video! I recently saw the video where you changed the bearing in a Pontiac Vibe (9 years ago, and you went to town with a hammer to get the dust shield back on in a matter of seconds. That video helped me replace the bearing on my 09 RAV4. When the bearing goes out on my wife’s AWD Siena, I now have another great source.
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poepflater
I remember my toyota conquest. nice car, basically the hatchback of the original 1993 camry. Had to replace a CV joint, thought like ever car of that generation, you just hit it with a hammer, or give it a bit of weakness with a grinder. but naaaahh, had to replace the whole axle/cv joint assembly at like 3 times the price of a CV joint.
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I remember my toyota conquest. nice car, basically the hatchback of the original 1993 camry. Had to replace a CV joint, thought like ever car of that generation, you just hit it with a hammer, or give it a bit of weakness with a grinder. but naaaahh, had to replace the whole axle/cv joint assembly at like 3 times the price of a CV joint.
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aarondean8299
Great job and video. A note on the small tube of silicone, what I do is unscrew the tip, squirt out small bit wipe it away and immediately cover the top with a piece of plastic and screw on the cap. Next time you need to use it again only the top guarter of an inch maybe hard. Just drill through it. And Bobs you uncle
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Great job and video. A note on the small tube of silicone, what I do is unscrew the tip, squirt out small bit wipe it away and immediately cover the top with a piece of plastic and screw on the cap. Next time you need to use it again only the top guarter of an inch maybe hard. Just drill through it. And Bobs you uncle
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richk42
I've resolved the POR-15 issue using cheap plastic bags. Sandwich or gallon, whatever fits over the can. Just lay the bag over the top of the can before you pound the lid on. It leaves two layers of plastic between the lid and the can rather than a layer of POR. I've never had a can fail to open that way.
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I've resolved the POR-15 issue using cheap plastic bags. Sandwich or gallon, whatever fits over the can. Just lay the bag over the top of the can before you pound the lid on. It leaves two layers of plastic between the lid and the can rather than a layer of POR. I've never had a can fail to open that way.
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elidaniel9568
Love your videos! I'm really enjoying learning about the car I'm driving, as they seem to have the same basics. If I can make a suggestion, I much enjoy the video more, if you start it without already knowing what the problem is. I really like understand how that part of the care is defective.
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Love your videos! I'm really enjoying learning about the car I'm driving, as they seem to have the same basics. If I can make a suggestion, I much enjoy the video more, if you start it without already knowing what the problem is. I really like understand how that part of the care is defective.
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dougrobinson8602
Just a tip if you anticipate topping off or draining gear oil- Loosen the fill plug first thing. If you can't get the thing loosened, you're toast. Also, a good set of seal drivers or bearing drivers would make it much easier to install that bearing and deflector. Good job, as usual, SMA!
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Just a tip if you anticipate topping off or draining gear oil- Loosen the fill plug first thing. If you can't get the thing loosened, you're toast. Also, a good set of seal drivers or bearing drivers would make it much easier to install that bearing and deflector. Good job, as usual, SMA!
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beechboyj
It's easy why they don't list it it's called making more money that don't need to spend I'd much rather pay for the parts I need and pay for the labor if it makes sense to, in this case it made sense to fix the bearing. As always great job from an honest mechanic and a great man thanks Eric O.
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It's easy why they don't list it it's called making more money that don't need to spend I'd much rather pay for the parts I need and pay for the labor if it makes sense to, in this case it made sense to fix the bearing. As always great job from an honest mechanic and a great man thanks Eric O.
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GNX157
The viscous coupling on the 2016 KIA Sorento is similar to that but it has its own seals and fluid, and no way to externally drain or add. It has to be disassembled and added in I’m told. Changing the rear diff fluid does nothing for the coupling as the fluid is separated by housings and seals.
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The viscous coupling on the 2016 KIA Sorento is similar to that but it has its own seals and fluid, and no way to externally drain or add. It has to be disassembled and added in I’m told. Changing the rear diff fluid does nothing for the coupling as the fluid is separated by housings and seals.
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mikeyanp
Love that you're showing how to repair what ya can instead of just replacing everything like they want! If they actually cared about the environment they would make the vehicle manufacturers design stuff to actually last and whatever can wear out to be easily Repaired not replaced.
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Love that you're showing how to repair what ya can instead of just replacing everything like they want! If they actually cared about the environment they would make the vehicle manufacturers design stuff to actually last and whatever can wear out to be easily Repaired not replaced.
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chubbysumo2230
the new AWD sienna's don't even have a drive shaft anymore. the rear axle is driven by its own electric motor, and every 2021 or newer sienna is a hybrid. it means that adding AWD at the factory is just a bolt in motor instead of an entire different transmission setup.
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the new AWD sienna's don't even have a drive shaft anymore. the rear axle is driven by its own electric motor, and every 2021 or newer sienna is a hybrid. it means that adding AWD at the factory is just a bolt in motor instead of an entire different transmission setup.
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russelallen5342
Eric, next time try slightly warming the housing and put the shield in the refrigerator for 5 minutes, goes in way easier. I adapted the process 65 years ago from installing starter rings on flywheel. I use it when installing bearing races and has served me well.
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Eric, next time try slightly warming the housing and put the shield in the refrigerator for 5 minutes, goes in way easier. I adapted the process 65 years ago from installing starter rings on flywheel. I use it when installing bearing races and has served me well.
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