Chevy Trailblazer EXT Blower Motor Won't Turn Off
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 9
C. A.
Good comments on the part fit vs. OE on aftermarket parts. I am very familiar with part sourcing with suppliers. Our process is this: we almost always use Tier 1, 2, 3 suppliers, they are usually the same suppliers that make parts for the new car build. We send them the blue prints for the part we need, they model it up, send part to us for engineering review, if part passes engineering review and testing, [extended durability, fit, finish, internal component specs] we sign off and release supplier sample for production. We then take 50-100 of the first production run and test all of them, to include tear down to verify manufacture to print. After this, we green light the part for release to commerce. The extra engineering, testing, validation steps add cost, but the part is right when we release to commerce. I was a tech 35 years ago and learned quickly on the difference with OE vs. aftermarket. It is hard to get the OE spec part today depending on where you are and the available part suppliers.
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Good comments on the part fit vs. OE on aftermarket parts. I am very familiar with part sourcing with suppliers. Our process is this: we almost always use Tier 1, 2, 3 suppliers, they are usually the same suppliers that make parts for the new car build. We send them the blue prints for the part we need, they model it up, send part to us for engineering review, if part passes engineering review and testing, [extended durability, fit, finish, internal component specs] we sign off and release supplier sample for production. We then take 50-100 of the first production run and test all of them, to include tear down to verify manufacture to print. After this, we green light the part for release to commerce. The extra engineering, testing, validation steps add cost, but the part is right when we release to commerce. I was a tech 35 years ago and learned quickly on the difference with OE vs. aftermarket. It is hard to get the OE spec part today depending on where you are and the available part suppliers.
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Joe
Yup! NAPA screw-ups in the design department.
Try to install the thermostat (with housing - no other way) in a Cadillac Catera abortion with the BMW engine.
After all the tear down. 4/hrs according to Mitchel On Demand) you find that you have to remove the timing cover, the pass-through tube that goes through the head on the driver's side with the o-ring and the NAPA part LOOKS right - so you put it in and the last thing you do is push that tube into the housing and then try to bolt the housing down.
The damned bolts are off position and they won't go it!
Take it ALL back out and go over to the NAPA dealer and you wanna drag one of their ex-burger flipper idiots over the counter into the middle of their store and beat him to death!
You've GOT TO use gen-u-wine GM or BMW parts!
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Yup! NAPA screw-ups in the design department.
Try to install the thermostat (with housing - no other way) in a Cadillac Catera abortion with the BMW engine.
After all the tear down. 4/hrs according to Mitchel On Demand) you find that you have to remove the timing cover, the pass-through tube that goes through the head on the driver's side with the o-ring and the NAPA part LOOKS right - so you put it in and the last thing you do is push that tube into the housing and then try to bolt the housing down.
The damned bolts are off position and they won't go it!
Take it ALL back out and go over to the NAPA dealer and you wanna drag one of their ex-burger flipper idiots over the counter into the middle of their store and beat him to death!
You've GOT TO use gen-u-wine GM or BMW parts!
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ig88killer
Should have also tested the wires going into the blower motor itself. I thought my Trailblazer had the same issue, but when i tested the wires going into the blower itself, they were also getting the same variable signal. It is important to test all components in the chain. I say this so that someone doesn't watch this video and just assume that because they are getting good signal from the dash means that the control module is bad. Mine had the same symptoms but it ended up being the blower, which was actually cheaper than the module. If I had just replaced the control module it would have been a big waste of time.
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Should have also tested the wires going into the blower motor itself. I thought my Trailblazer had the same issue, but when i tested the wires going into the blower itself, they were also getting the same variable signal. It is important to test all components in the chain. I say this so that someone doesn't watch this video and just assume that because they are getting good signal from the dash means that the control module is bad. Mine had the same symptoms but it ended up being the blower, which was actually cheaper than the module. If I had just replaced the control module it would have been a big waste of time.
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huntedmusky
I appreciate your frustration. I'm there. One question, I do see the tab on my replacement part which allows me to technically install it one way. But I was able to install the unit backwards without the interference from the console. But my fan does not operate. Is the orientation of the module absolutely important? In other words, can I install it backwards so the wires reach? (My envoy is very old, and I don't care where the wires end up)
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I appreciate your frustration. I'm there. One question, I do see the tab on my replacement part which allows me to technically install it one way. But I was able to install the unit backwards without the interference from the console. But my fan does not operate. Is the orientation of the module absolutely important? In other words, can I install it backwards so the wires reach? (My envoy is very old, and I don't care where the wires end up)
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Nhoj
Our blower motor works intermittently. The heat gauge does not move. Have checked wires at the thermostat and ac they are good. Did not see any bad connections. Could the module be causing this problem. The vehicle is not overheating. Some times it cools other days it does not. Have also noticed that air does not come out the dash vents on occasion.
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Our blower motor works intermittently. The heat gauge does not move. Have checked wires at the thermostat and ac they are good. Did not see any bad connections. Could the module be causing this problem. The vehicle is not overheating. Some times it cools other days it does not. Have also noticed that air does not come out the dash vents on occasion.
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Trevor
Ok 2010 GMC sierra blower quite working altogether, nothing, so changed the resistor then it started working on high only and had to pull the fuse to shut it off. Thinking that resistor is bad took it back now it doesn't do anything again. Any suggestions, did check the fuse again just to make sure didn't blow it it's good. Any suggestions?
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Ok 2010 GMC sierra blower quite working altogether, nothing, so changed the resistor then it started working on high only and had to pull the fuse to shut it off. Thinking that resistor is bad took it back now it doesn't do anything again. Any suggestions, did check the fuse again just to make sure didn't blow it it's good. Any suggestions?
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Mikeaaron777
But you said. NAPA had the part and even GM didn't. So what other choice was there.
I have a brother who's a building inspector, and claims the crimp connectors are crap. I have even used them for cleaner quicker splicing of 220volt ballast lighting repairs. No need for huge twist connections.
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But you said. NAPA had the part and even GM didn't. So what other choice was there.
I have a brother who's a building inspector, and claims the crimp connectors are crap. I have even used them for cleaner quicker splicing of 220volt ballast lighting repairs. No need for huge twist connections.
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Larry
No, I don't use those crimp/heat shrink connectors. I'll tell you why: they cost nearly a dollar apiece! Okay, 85 cents. I'll solder/heat shrink tubing instead. I also trust a soldered connection over a crimped connection. Just my personal choice. Love these old SMA's.
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No, I don't use those crimp/heat shrink connectors. I'll tell you why: they cost nearly a dollar apiece! Okay, 85 cents. I'll solder/heat shrink tubing instead. I also trust a soldered connection over a crimped connection. Just my personal choice. Love these old SMA's.
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Dave
Man o Man. you are a comic, I've told you this before, but the rubber head banging pad was the one that would've been your money maker on the comic circuit. I still think you should put in the bleachers for the public. You have the talent, you just need a manager.
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Man o Man. you are a comic, I've told you this before, but the rubber head banging pad was the one that would've been your money maker on the comic circuit. I still think you should put in the bleachers for the public. You have the talent, you just need a manager.
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