The Best Method For Removing Broken Bolts
video description
I do plow trucks so I use the Dorman Stainless steel replacement bolts and use a cutoff wheel to take 3/16 off, then hit them with a carbide taper. They won t be rusted next time.
The manifolds can be the center of other problems. Broken exhaust hangers on dual 3 inch pipes can crack the manifolds or bust he heads off the bolts, same with worn out motor mounts.
Pretty common on those Silverado's is, if the bottom of the fan shroud is chewed off, it needs motor mounts and manifolds.
Date: 2023-05-22
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Comments and reviews: 14
Russell
I'm kinda the mechanical whisperer of the neighborhood. I help a lot of folks often with their mechanical issues of auto, home, and garden.
A couple of weeks ago a frequent flyer calls me, Hey Russ, I snapped a bolt off my mower in the rear. I'm kinda in a bind. Can you help?
I pedal the bicycle down to his place. Sure enough, the bold snapped. It's a common problem with the John Deere SB14 mowers. And, chances are, I put that last one in with a new rear wheel. I also probably applied blue Loctite. Well, he had tried an easy-out and, of course, snapped that off too.
I told him some heat and a punch tapping it around the clock dial would probably back it out. But, all that stuff is back at my place. I rode back on the bicycle and he walked the mower following.
I applied torch heat and was making progress with the tap tap tap method. But, it was taking too long. I retrieved a scrap bin nut and placed it on top of the broken bolt. The neighbor was looking at me like I had two heads.
Then, I hit the nut/bolt with the MIG welder running on 120 volts. The broken bolt backed out like it's supposed to. The neighbor was beaming. In his eyes I had just parted the Red Sea.
Nice to be able to help folks out of a jam and give them a good show all at the same time. I highly doubt the neighbor had been that close to a welding operation during his entire 70+ year life.
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I'm kinda the mechanical whisperer of the neighborhood. I help a lot of folks often with their mechanical issues of auto, home, and garden.
A couple of weeks ago a frequent flyer calls me, Hey Russ, I snapped a bolt off my mower in the rear. I'm kinda in a bind. Can you help?
I pedal the bicycle down to his place. Sure enough, the bold snapped. It's a common problem with the John Deere SB14 mowers. And, chances are, I put that last one in with a new rear wheel. I also probably applied blue Loctite. Well, he had tried an easy-out and, of course, snapped that off too.
I told him some heat and a punch tapping it around the clock dial would probably back it out. But, all that stuff is back at my place. I rode back on the bicycle and he walked the mower following.
I applied torch heat and was making progress with the tap tap tap method. But, it was taking too long. I retrieved a scrap bin nut and placed it on top of the broken bolt. The neighbor was looking at me like I had two heads.
Then, I hit the nut/bolt with the MIG welder running on 120 volts. The broken bolt backed out like it's supposed to. The neighbor was beaming. In his eyes I had just parted the Red Sea.
Nice to be able to help folks out of a jam and give them a good show all at the same time. I highly doubt the neighbor had been that close to a welding operation during his entire 70+ year life.
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William
One thing to try is - after welding the nut to the broken-off bolt or stud - let it cool, then give the nut a good tap with a dead-blow hammer. As a last resort, drill a hole down the center of the broken-off bolt, whose diameter is just slightly greater than those little straws that come with a can of WD-40 (or a can of compressed air, like computer geeks like to use to blow crumbs out of their keyboards. Heat the nut/bolt, and surrounding material, with your torch, then quickly spray your favorite lubricant through the little straw into the hole you drilled. This should thermally shock the broken bolt. Now tap with hammer, then attempt to remove. Note: the cans of compressed air get really cold if you hold them upside-down! Hint, hint! This is easier and cheaper than liquid nitrogen.
reply
One thing to try is - after welding the nut to the broken-off bolt or stud - let it cool, then give the nut a good tap with a dead-blow hammer. As a last resort, drill a hole down the center of the broken-off bolt, whose diameter is just slightly greater than those little straws that come with a can of WD-40 (or a can of compressed air, like computer geeks like to use to blow crumbs out of their keyboards. Heat the nut/bolt, and surrounding material, with your torch, then quickly spray your favorite lubricant through the little straw into the hole you drilled. This should thermally shock the broken bolt. Now tap with hammer, then attempt to remove. Note: the cans of compressed air get really cold if you hold them upside-down! Hint, hint! This is easier and cheaper than liquid nitrogen.
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EL
I do the same procedure you do except that after heating the head area I spray the bolt with cold spray available on line. This can also help break the barrier and shrink the bolt a little. I have been using this for 65 years on all sorts of heavy trucks, aircraft cars etc. Another technique if the bolt / screw is below the surface i have a variety of bolts that I have drilled through the center on my lathe so I can screw it in the first thread or so and then use the center hole to drill the center of the trapped bolt. I can then take the guide bolt out and drill enough to get a easy out or drill the old bolt out without having the drill skate around on the broken bolt surface. This gives you an exact center to guide the drill.
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I do the same procedure you do except that after heating the head area I spray the bolt with cold spray available on line. This can also help break the barrier and shrink the bolt a little. I have been using this for 65 years on all sorts of heavy trucks, aircraft cars etc. Another technique if the bolt / screw is below the surface i have a variety of bolts that I have drilled through the center on my lathe so I can screw it in the first thread or so and then use the center hole to drill the center of the trapped bolt. I can then take the guide bolt out and drill enough to get a easy out or drill the old bolt out without having the drill skate around on the broken bolt surface. This gives you an exact center to guide the drill.
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Stephen_DD16
Expansion and contraction cause warpage, but it works in this case, obviously.
If the bolt is large enough in diameter, I would prefer that cutting/grinding the protruding bolt shaft flush with the surface, drilling out the center a size or two smaller than the diameter of the shaft Use a guide plate, and don't use cheap ass chinesium drill bits, or taps(tap size cannot exceed the outside diameter of the broken off bolt) and tapping reverse threads. Then, while tightening the center bolt down, the hollowed outside bolt will be extracted.
reply
Expansion and contraction cause warpage, but it works in this case, obviously.
If the bolt is large enough in diameter, I would prefer that cutting/grinding the protruding bolt shaft flush with the surface, drilling out the center a size or two smaller than the diameter of the shaft Use a guide plate, and don't use cheap ass chinesium drill bits, or taps(tap size cannot exceed the outside diameter of the broken off bolt) and tapping reverse threads. Then, while tightening the center bolt down, the hollowed outside bolt will be extracted.
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John
I see a great number of us viewers needed this after watching Rain Man scrap an engine over a recoverable broken bolt. Easy-outs are NOT for seized bolts, especially those extending into the water jacket. One thing I've had experience on is seized and broken bolts. As long as there is some kind of room to maneuver a drill, even with a 12 bit, there is a way to recover--just leave the easy-outs in the box.
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I see a great number of us viewers needed this after watching Rain Man scrap an engine over a recoverable broken bolt. Easy-outs are NOT for seized bolts, especially those extending into the water jacket. One thing I've had experience on is seized and broken bolts. As long as there is some kind of room to maneuver a drill, even with a 12 bit, there is a way to recover--just leave the easy-outs in the box.
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Craig
You forgot to mention your trick from years before to initially rock the welded nut back and forth to break the rust bond. not go full tilt counterclockwise. Also, free teck tip for going nuke on the flush/receding studs. put a Copper Washer between the nut and stud which will prevent any unintended weld to the heads (especially if iron heads): Copper won't adhere to iron/aluminum. Good job Mr. O!
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You forgot to mention your trick from years before to initially rock the welded nut back and forth to break the rust bond. not go full tilt counterclockwise. Also, free teck tip for going nuke on the flush/receding studs. put a Copper Washer between the nut and stud which will prevent any unintended weld to the heads (especially if iron heads): Copper won't adhere to iron/aluminum. Good job Mr. O!
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Benton
Being a welder, I'd personally would use GTAW process (produces a solid weld. But you are correct burning in a hot bead is best using GMAW process. Most videos I've seen use GMAW with success; however a recent one didn't. The mechanic is now seriously considering replacing the engine. Don't agree with his approach. I'd completely grind out the area and weld build up, redrill & tap the hole. ?
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Being a welder, I'd personally would use GTAW process (produces a solid weld. But you are correct burning in a hot bead is best using GMAW process. Most videos I've seen use GMAW with success; however a recent one didn't. The mechanic is now seriously considering replacing the engine. Don't agree with his approach. I'd completely grind out the area and weld build up, redrill & tap the hole. ?
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autos
Great video Eric. We do this to every Gen3/Gen4 LS architecture V8 engine and cylinder head we sell, although I haven't used a torch to get it warm after welding. I'll have to remember that for the really stubborn ones. I just have one question. What kind of voodoo witchcraft magic potion throwin pixie dust did you put on the dipstick tube to get it out a block that rusty? I gotta know.
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Great video Eric. We do this to every Gen3/Gen4 LS architecture V8 engine and cylinder head we sell, although I haven't used a torch to get it warm after welding. I'll have to remember that for the really stubborn ones. I just have one question. What kind of voodoo witchcraft magic potion throwin pixie dust did you put on the dipstick tube to get it out a block that rusty? I gotta know.
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GregFisherman
I've been working light vehicle diagnostics and repair for a little over 30 years and still admire the way you yankees deal with all that salt inspired rust up there in the rust belt. But I am glad we don't have to deal with it much down here in Georgia except for those few times the new sales manager decides it's a great idea to head north to the auctions. Thanks for sharing.
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I've been working light vehicle diagnostics and repair for a little over 30 years and still admire the way you yankees deal with all that salt inspired rust up there in the rust belt. But I am glad we don't have to deal with it much down here in Georgia except for those few times the new sales manager decides it's a great idea to head north to the auctions. Thanks for sharing.
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spelunkerd
I really like the way you used full heat with your welder. When the welder is only on for a few seconds, you need maximum voltage on a Mig welder to get adequate penetration. Guys who use small 120V welders may not have enough to accomplish the job, or they stop too soon. Then the nut breaks off because of poor penetration. Mig welders are great, but the weakness is penetration.
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I really like the way you used full heat with your welder. When the welder is only on for a few seconds, you need maximum voltage on a Mig welder to get adequate penetration. Guys who use small 120V welders may not have enough to accomplish the job, or they stop too soon. Then the nut breaks off because of poor penetration. Mig welders are great, but the weakness is penetration.
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Dan's
As always, great teaching/entertaining video!
On my '85 Dodge 1 ton plow truck, I replaced the exhaust manifold gasket on the driver's side had to extract some broken bolts. Still after 5 years, the passenger side is still leaking. Should get to it before next winter. CO in the cab after 20-30 minutes of plowing can impair judgement! I only plow for myself.
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As always, great teaching/entertaining video!
On my '85 Dodge 1 ton plow truck, I replaced the exhaust manifold gasket on the driver's side had to extract some broken bolts. Still after 5 years, the passenger side is still leaking. Should get to it before next winter. CO in the cab after 20-30 minutes of plowing can impair judgement! I only plow for myself.
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David
This is just a question. If something like that happened to me I wouldn't know till it's over. Because I'm paying someone ( a pro with a business ) to fix it right the first time. ANYWAY here s the question. After welding that nut to the broken bolt. Do you think the heat from welding might be enough? Well you don't because you add extra heat.
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This is just a question. If something like that happened to me I wouldn't know till it's over. Because I'm paying someone ( a pro with a business ) to fix it right the first time. ANYWAY here s the question. After welding that nut to the broken bolt. Do you think the heat from welding might be enough? Well you don't because you add extra heat.
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turner0224
So glad you did this video after a couple vids I ve seen over the last couple days. Having been working on engines for over 50 years, it s never boring to see an outstanding video on how to to avoid massive oops. You re one of the best, patience and knowledge wins most times. Thank you for that once again.
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So glad you did this video after a couple vids I ve seen over the last couple days. Having been working on engines for over 50 years, it s never boring to see an outstanding video on how to to avoid massive oops. You re one of the best, patience and knowledge wins most times. Thank you for that once again.
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Ian
G'day mr E, with alumium and old boat mechanic told me, use urine on the alumium, yer it stinky and gross, but the uric acid in your pee, actually will attack alumium corrosion.
yer this old bloke would set up and piss on them a couple of days before dissaembly, and bugger me ifin the bolt didn't come out,
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G'day mr E, with alumium and old boat mechanic told me, use urine on the alumium, yer it stinky and gross, but the uric acid in your pee, actually will attack alumium corrosion.
yer this old bloke would set up and piss on them a couple of days before dissaembly, and bugger me ifin the bolt didn't come out,
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