Ford F Series 5. 4 3 Valve: Broken Spark Plug Removal
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Eugene
I really enjoy your vids. I had an 07 Expedition and broke 7 out of 8 plugs. I still have the Lisle 65600 broken plug remover kit. Took me an hour to extract each one. If I were to do it again, I would fill the plug wells with PB Blaster and loosen-tighten back, loosen a little more, tighten/loosen over and over until they work loose to minimize chance of breakage. Ford changed the spark plug (Motorcraft SP515/546) design to prevent this breakage plus using plenty of anti seize on the threads and extension. Like you, I just ran it open hole to let debris fly out, and it ran fine afterward. Good to check/replace these plugs every 50k mi. to prevent seizure and also prevent the low grade misfires as the electrodes wear. Vehicle was totaled around 180k, but ran good up until then.
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I really enjoy your vids. I had an 07 Expedition and broke 7 out of 8 plugs. I still have the Lisle 65600 broken plug remover kit. Took me an hour to extract each one. If I were to do it again, I would fill the plug wells with PB Blaster and loosen-tighten back, loosen a little more, tighten/loosen over and over until they work loose to minimize chance of breakage. Ford changed the spark plug (Motorcraft SP515/546) design to prevent this breakage plus using plenty of anti seize on the threads and extension. Like you, I just ran it open hole to let debris fly out, and it ran fine afterward. Good to check/replace these plugs every 50k mi. to prevent seizure and also prevent the low grade misfires as the electrodes wear. Vehicle was totaled around 180k, but ran good up until then.
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Armando
Thanks for showing, Ive done a few fords with the same results, I noticed you were lucky not to have to tap the head, for new threads, now that feels awful when you know all the aluminum that the tap is cutting may still get past the grease on the tap, but I would do what you did after taping by running the engine to make sure all the peaces were blown out, all & all its never an easy job, l one time had one come in with the plug leaking Exast from the far right plug & asked if we could send it out to the dealer, so my boss sent it, so to heli coil the head in the truck for just that one spark plug the bill came out to 500. 00 so needless to say we had to do any other trucks that came in with the same problem because of the cost. thank God I retired Im free!
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Thanks for showing, Ive done a few fords with the same results, I noticed you were lucky not to have to tap the head, for new threads, now that feels awful when you know all the aluminum that the tap is cutting may still get past the grease on the tap, but I would do what you did after taping by running the engine to make sure all the peaces were blown out, all & all its never an easy job, l one time had one come in with the plug leaking Exast from the far right plug & asked if we could send it out to the dealer, so my boss sent it, so to heli coil the head in the truck for just that one spark plug the bill came out to 500. 00 so needless to say we had to do any other trucks that came in with the same problem because of the cost. thank God I retired Im free!
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James
I take the coil packs off blow around the spark plug with a air hose and I spray the holes with PB Blaster around the spark plugs and let him see it for a few minutes maybe about 30 minutes and then if the tips break off I basically remove them just like you did but I use the same air hose to blow down in the spark plug holes instead of cranking the truck up I let my air hose blow in there for a few minutes then I take my endoscope and look down through the spark plug hole to see if I've got all the trash out you can buy a cheap endoscope from Harbor Freight or off the internet that gives me a little bit more peace of mind if I can see down in the cylinder you what mean. LOL
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I take the coil packs off blow around the spark plug with a air hose and I spray the holes with PB Blaster around the spark plugs and let him see it for a few minutes maybe about 30 minutes and then if the tips break off I basically remove them just like you did but I use the same air hose to blow down in the spark plug holes instead of cranking the truck up I let my air hose blow in there for a few minutes then I take my endoscope and look down through the spark plug hole to see if I've got all the trash out you can buy a cheap endoscope from Harbor Freight or off the internet that gives me a little bit more peace of mind if I can see down in the cylinder you what mean. LOL
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8avexp
That guy's suggestion to just replace the coils and plugs reminds me of the shop that wanted to change the cap and rotor, plugs and wires on my Jeep when it suddenly refused to fire after washing the engine. I work in tech support and know from experience that it's highly unlikely all that stuff could have just gone bad all at once. Gee, let's just change everything! Luckily the plugs are easy to get to on all three of my cars. And I swear by anti-seize compound, even on cast iron heads.
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That guy's suggestion to just replace the coils and plugs reminds me of the shop that wanted to change the cap and rotor, plugs and wires on my Jeep when it suddenly refused to fire after washing the engine. I work in tech support and know from experience that it's highly unlikely all that stuff could have just gone bad all at once. Gee, let's just change everything! Luckily the plugs are easy to get to on all three of my cars. And I swear by anti-seize compound, even on cast iron heads.
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BILL
Ok I see this is 4 years old but the problem with the truck is very similar to my truck.
I have a Chevy avalanche 2007 with 132, 000 miles recently it started running rough. I changed the plugs, the wires and tomorrow Im going to change 8 ignition coils. If it is still running rough after that what should I be looking for.
Supposedly it has a fuel filter in line but it non serviceable. I cant get the parts store to put a computer on it because of the covid 19
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Ok I see this is 4 years old but the problem with the truck is very similar to my truck.
I have a Chevy avalanche 2007 with 132, 000 miles recently it started running rough. I changed the plugs, the wires and tomorrow Im going to change 8 ignition coils. If it is still running rough after that what should I be looking for.
Supposedly it has a fuel filter in line but it non serviceable. I cant get the parts store to put a computer on it because of the covid 19
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Paul
Dispatcher gave me a repair order to rebush a hendrexson walking beam suspension
So I took the rear wheels off first
Service manager came up to me and asked why I took the wheels off
I said because it made the job easier
He told me we dont do things here because its easier we do it because its faster
After a 37 year career I never did any thing because it make the job easier it was always to make the job get done faster
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Dispatcher gave me a repair order to rebush a hendrexson walking beam suspension
So I took the rear wheels off first
Service manager came up to me and asked why I took the wheels off
I said because it made the job easier
He told me we dont do things here because its easier we do it because its faster
After a 37 year career I never did any thing because it make the job easier it was always to make the job get done faster
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autos
Somethings happened here before the last mechanic probably had a nervous breakdown and the job wasn't completed! Such a big car and no room under the bonnet! Why would you buy a vehicle with these known issues? Mechanics should be able to sue Ford for Pre and Post stress disorder. In China they would probably execute the engineers who designed it. Maybe a plastic insulator would avoid the major cylinder damage porcelain would cause?
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Somethings happened here before the last mechanic probably had a nervous breakdown and the job wasn't completed! Such a big car and no room under the bonnet! Why would you buy a vehicle with these known issues? Mechanics should be able to sue Ford for Pre and Post stress disorder. In China they would probably execute the engineers who designed it. Maybe a plastic insulator would avoid the major cylinder damage porcelain would cause?
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Paul
Id take my snap on air operated vacume cleaner and put a hose in the suction tube that fits down the spark plug hole and at least try to vacuum the debris out of the cylinder
I believe the guys that go around repairing the spark plug threads bar the cylinders over with a vacuum cleaner connected to the tail pipe till the cylinder to be worked on has the exhaust valve open
Hopefully the debris get pulled into the exhaust system
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Id take my snap on air operated vacume cleaner and put a hose in the suction tube that fits down the spark plug hole and at least try to vacuum the debris out of the cylinder
I believe the guys that go around repairing the spark plug threads bar the cylinders over with a vacuum cleaner connected to the tail pipe till the cylinder to be worked on has the exhaust valve open
Hopefully the debris get pulled into the exhaust system
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David
looks like you were trying to break them. Been through 3 sets of plugs in 350, 000 miles, never broke a single plug. Just a little sense! I'm sure you are a much better mechanic than me, but an air tool on a plug with a history? Try a drizzle of break fluid in the well the night before when still hot, one click on a manual ratchet on each plug. heat again in the morning.
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looks like you were trying to break them. Been through 3 sets of plugs in 350, 000 miles, never broke a single plug. Just a little sense! I'm sure you are a much better mechanic than me, but an air tool on a plug with a history? Try a drizzle of break fluid in the well the night before when still hot, one click on a manual ratchet on each plug. heat again in the morning.
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TJ
Great Videos! After extracting the plug portion, I use my borescope to see if there's any debris down in the cylinder, if there is, to get it out I use a piece of fuel hose taped to my shop vacuum and push it down into the spark plug hole and move it around. Then recheck with the borescope and 99% of the time the shop vac sucks it up. Hope this helps someone!
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Great Videos! After extracting the plug portion, I use my borescope to see if there's any debris down in the cylinder, if there is, to get it out I use a piece of fuel hose taped to my shop vacuum and push it down into the spark plug hole and move it around. Then recheck with the borescope and 99% of the time the shop vac sucks it up. Hope this helps someone!
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