Hyundai Tucson: Will Not Run A Drive Cycle
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
jeTTaTurbO
Love your videos, i've learned quite a bit from them.
I'll share a similar story that i've encountered.
Customer had a Nissan come in with a b1s1 o2 heater circuit malfunction and closed loop codes. o2, cat, and evap systems would not run a cycle and the car was two years overdue for mass state annual inspection.
Customer brought the vehicle to his normal mechanic, whom replaced the b1s1 o2 sensor. Light came right back on so they replaced it a second time. Never went off.
Sent it to another shop locally, they replaced the sensor a third time with no change. Then said it needed a new ECU as it wasn't communicating. They installed / programmed a used unit. No change.
From there it went to the local Nissan dealership. There was a pending TSB for these two specific codes, so it got an ECU reflash and a new updated style o2 sensor. Also said it needed a new MAF sensor. No change once again.
End resort had them bring it to me. I looked to verify that all these parts were indeed replaced and assumed it was best to check the wiring harness. Went to back probe the o2 sensor main harness (female end) and couldnt get a good reading. Removed the internal pin retainer to find that two of the four pin connections had literally burned and decomposed (strangely as there was no physical damage to the plastic)
Spliced on a connector from a salvaged Nissan and the system now runs a drive cycle and the car finally got a valid passing inspection sticker.
Customer spent over 1000. 00 on unnecessary repairs.
My question to you and anyone else reading this, what caused the internal part of the harness (pin outs) to get burned up in the first place?
Thank you for taking the time to post these videos and help everyone out!
reply
Love your videos, i've learned quite a bit from them.
I'll share a similar story that i've encountered.
Customer had a Nissan come in with a b1s1 o2 heater circuit malfunction and closed loop codes. o2, cat, and evap systems would not run a cycle and the car was two years overdue for mass state annual inspection.
Customer brought the vehicle to his normal mechanic, whom replaced the b1s1 o2 sensor. Light came right back on so they replaced it a second time. Never went off.
Sent it to another shop locally, they replaced the sensor a third time with no change. Then said it needed a new ECU as it wasn't communicating. They installed / programmed a used unit. No change.
From there it went to the local Nissan dealership. There was a pending TSB for these two specific codes, so it got an ECU reflash and a new updated style o2 sensor. Also said it needed a new MAF sensor. No change once again.
End resort had them bring it to me. I looked to verify that all these parts were indeed replaced and assumed it was best to check the wiring harness. Went to back probe the o2 sensor main harness (female end) and couldnt get a good reading. Removed the internal pin retainer to find that two of the four pin connections had literally burned and decomposed (strangely as there was no physical damage to the plastic)
Spliced on a connector from a salvaged Nissan and the system now runs a drive cycle and the car finally got a valid passing inspection sticker.
Customer spent over 1000. 00 on unnecessary repairs.
My question to you and anyone else reading this, what caused the internal part of the harness (pin outs) to get burned up in the first place?
Thank you for taking the time to post these videos and help everyone out!
reply
Buddy
I thought the MAF signal graphs were interesting so I looked at some online and supposedly that initial spike should roughly match the full load voltage, as the intake manifold has to be filled after the throttle is opened first before you get something like steady state flow, so air rushes past the throttle initially at partial throttle. Once the manifold pressure equalizes then the voltage drops as the flow slows down. The bad graph has a lower voltage on that initial spike, which is indicative of a bad sensor (I even saw Bosch specify 4. 5 volts which coincidentally or not matches what you saw on the good graph. Maybe that's a common number. The bad graph also has a weirdly linear slope up that I don't understand, but I wonder if the loss of detail is due to fouling on the sensor grid slowing down temperature transfer and thus stretching out the time it takes for the actual metal to change resistance. Who knows. I certainly don't. But I'm very curious if you've ever attempted to use a cleaner on a MAF to see what happens.
reply
I thought the MAF signal graphs were interesting so I looked at some online and supposedly that initial spike should roughly match the full load voltage, as the intake manifold has to be filled after the throttle is opened first before you get something like steady state flow, so air rushes past the throttle initially at partial throttle. Once the manifold pressure equalizes then the voltage drops as the flow slows down. The bad graph has a lower voltage on that initial spike, which is indicative of a bad sensor (I even saw Bosch specify 4. 5 volts which coincidentally or not matches what you saw on the good graph. Maybe that's a common number. The bad graph also has a weirdly linear slope up that I don't understand, but I wonder if the loss of detail is due to fouling on the sensor grid slowing down temperature transfer and thus stretching out the time it takes for the actual metal to change resistance. Who knows. I certainly don't. But I'm very curious if you've ever attempted to use a cleaner on a MAF to see what happens.
reply
Edward
Hey SMA, I hope all is well for you! I have a 2012 Hyundai sonata 2. 4 that I need to take through inspection. But the o2s monitor will not become ready. It's the only 1 and I'm about to jump off a bridge over it. I've tried to many things. Drive cycles, over 4 hundred miles now. It will not set. Please give me any of your thoughts or suggestions! I'd greatly appreciate it! Thank you for your time!
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Hey SMA, I hope all is well for you! I have a 2012 Hyundai sonata 2. 4 that I need to take through inspection. But the o2s monitor will not become ready. It's the only 1 and I'm about to jump off a bridge over it. I've tried to many things. Drive cycles, over 4 hundred miles now. It will not set. Please give me any of your thoughts or suggestions! I'd greatly appreciate it! Thank you for your time!
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Mike
I have a new Pico Scope, so I'm still lost with getting it to do like your doing on a known good Nissan Frontier. I do see what your saying about the MAF and the fuel trims. Is that a Launch Diagnostic tablet? It looks familiar, like my Matco MaxMe. I used to use the pull up parking brake to slow the vehicle so the monitor (s) would continue to run. That worked.
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I have a new Pico Scope, so I'm still lost with getting it to do like your doing on a known good Nissan Frontier. I do see what your saying about the MAF and the fuel trims. Is that a Launch Diagnostic tablet? It looks familiar, like my Matco MaxMe. I used to use the pull up parking brake to slow the vehicle so the monitor (s) would continue to run. That worked.
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dwoodog
I think on some of these scope/diag videos you need to remember I'm watching it and dumb things down a bit. Instead of just saying this looks too high, or too low, take and extra few seconds to go over what we should be looking for. But still a good video.
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I think on some of these scope/diag videos you need to remember I'm watching it and dumb things down a bit. Instead of just saying this looks too high, or too low, take and extra few seconds to go over what we should be looking for. But still a good video.
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James
Have sanfe that won't crank then itsspins over and fires up so many parts have been thrown at it already my thinking it's a ground issue starting early in the morning to solve this I also have cpk code
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Have sanfe that won't crank then itsspins over and fires up so many parts have been thrown at it already my thinking it's a ground issue starting early in the morning to solve this I also have cpk code
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Educated
My father gave me a tip, way back in the 1950s. Cut a potato in half. Rub the potato on the windshield, and, next morning, no ice will form under the snow, sort of its own anti-freeze. Viola!
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My father gave me a tip, way back in the 1950s. Cut a potato in half. Rub the potato on the windshield, and, next morning, no ice will form under the snow, sort of its own anti-freeze. Viola!
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chris
This is great! How many people junk a vehicle due to sheer frustration by taking it to numerous shops only to be told nothing is wrong? A little diligence saves a car from being crushed!
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This is great! How many people junk a vehicle due to sheer frustration by taking it to numerous shops only to be told nothing is wrong? A little diligence saves a car from being crushed!
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Paddy
If the re trace is supposed to be the 5V supply to the MAF, why is it around 3. 4 V on the scope and the output exceeds supply voltage when you blip the throttle? Different scale?
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If the re trace is supposed to be the 5V supply to the MAF, why is it around 3. 4 V on the scope and the output exceeds supply voltage when you blip the throttle? Different scale?
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misty
Hello Eric, thanks for empowering AMERICANS to b self-reliant! WHAT happened to the Toyota tundra you were driving in the video? I thought you owned a Honda? Thanks Chris from NYC
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Hello Eric, thanks for empowering AMERICANS to b self-reliant! WHAT happened to the Toyota tundra you were driving in the video? I thought you owned a Honda? Thanks Chris from NYC
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