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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
GM Nylon Injection U-Joint Replacement

GM Nylon Injection U-Joint Replacement

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Rating: 4.5; Vote: 2
GM Nylon Injection U-Joint Replacement Russell: My go-to scrap yard is right across the street from the area's transit authority heavy equipment repair facility. As such, they scrap some choice bounty -- huge bearings, monster center links, and all kinds of other stuff.
During one visit I scored dozens of thick bolts and nuts -- I'm always on the lookout for hydraulic press tooling. And with a lathe, I can cut those thick bolts down to any perfect diameter I need for driving, pressing, beating, and whatnot.

Date: 2023-07-14

Comments and reviews: 19


I had a 1987 Monte Carlo with the factory glued in u-joints. They were bad. So I changed them. The car then had a horrible vibration. Took shaft out, checked everything. I gave up and took it to a drive shaft shop. The owner walked in, just glanced at the shaft and says Let me guess. GM shaft you changed u-joints now it vibrates. Yes. Bring the shaft follow me. He put the shaft in his lathe, the front yoke / u-joint was 1/4 off center, the rear was 1/8 off center. I get these all the time because GM cheaped out putting these together. They just slam the end yokes in the tubes, eyeball straightness and weld it. The u-joint then is pressed in centering the the shaft but not centered in the yoke and the nylon is squirted in. He popped both u-joints out, cut both yokes lose, tapped them into the tubes. Then used a dial indicator to center them before welding. Both ends were less than. 0001 off. Rebalanced with new Spicer u-joints. The car was perfect then.
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In Feb of 1982 my 73 dodge Coronet u joints were shaking me out of the car on my way home from work at 0745pm. I made it to Trak Auto just before they closed. It was 5 degrees outside. I changed those bastards right in their parking lot with 2 farmers jacks and a raovak flashlight from RadioShack. The employees leaving the store were in awe. I got those babies on at the cost of extreme shrinkage and near frostbit fingers. Drove outta that lot like a boss. God I miss that car.
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I remember the very first Eric O video I ever saw was about an hour and a half long from what I can recall and I watched it from start to finish. My comment was the same I can't believe I watched the whole thing. Several years later like this video I'm still watching the whole thing. The only drama is when a bolt or clip wants to be a tough guy and not even a moment later its just a short history lesson. This was fun thanks for putting this up!
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When I was replacing U-joints to clean the yoke/shaft where the caps go. I measured the I. D. and from Snap-On I bought a small brake cylinder Flex hone in the size needed and that will clean them out nicely. Always added an extra touch of grease to the needle bearing helps keep them in place as you pound them into place. Worked in an automotive machine shop for a while and got pretty good at GM's CV joints. I did not mind R&R U-joints.
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The biggest issue I've had was one or two needles turning flat against the back of the cap when assembling. I usually put a dab of grease in the cap, put the cross in, and try to get it as deep as possible in a bench vise without bending the ears. Sometimes one hit with the hammer when the cross isn't supporting the needles at least partially, and the needles move. even with grease holding them in.
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The glue type were the easiest to disassemble because they didn t have rusted in snap rings. In the late 90 s I worked for CCT remanufacturing driveshafts sold at the national parts houses. Torch, snap ring pliers, 3/16 plate with a handle as a jig not to bend the ears together and 2 ball peen hammers with the ball s ground to the size of the ujoint caps were all we used In tear down.
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Your videos are invaluable but a ball joint press in a vise or arbor press would have been just as fast if not faster than torch cutting the cross after burning the plastic out of the caps and saved the gas. Oxy/fuel mix here is getting outrageously expensive. Sparking off the torch becomes more an more of a conscious decision for us when we use to just whip it out by default.
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Question, for anyone, I had a mechanic screw me over on a clutch job. The clutch line was kinked and thought maybe that would be why the pedal had 3 of play in it. I replaced the line, bought one of those fancy pneumatic bleeders. 2 days of bleeding and still no pedal, still has play in the pedal. What am I missing/doing wrong? 1988 Chevy k2500 with a NV4500 5 speed.
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I remember going on a field trip when I was in Vo-Tech school for auto mechanics in 1975 or 1976 to a company that specialized in U-joint work. They pointed out holes in their ceiling from the plastic retained caps would blow out when they heated them up to remove them. I think they were just recently introduced by GM on the constant velocity type driveshafts.
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The first time I ran into the plastic injection on a U-Joint was on an all original 1964 Pontiac Bonneville about 10 years ago. I thought that was crazy but I guess it works if they are still doing it. I also heated the joints and red plastic came squirting out. Glad to have that mess gone and it is not hard to deal with. Great Job!
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Bird chirp noise made me think of the story from 40 years ago about the Cadillac with undiagnosable noise problems. Finally using a cutting torch as the preferred tool, the mechanic found a soda bottle in a box beam. It had a note from a disgruntled assembler: Betcha had a hard time finding this one.
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Thanks for this video. My Yukon just rolled 200k so maybe I ll need to do this soon. Haven t seen anyone do the plastic ones yet, only read about doing it. Looks pretty easy for a at home DIY guy like me. I was assuming greasable was better but I ll get the spicer non-greasable if Eric O says so!
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Tuesday made me wish the 2009 avalanche used the nylon instead, the snap rings that held mine in were rusted solid, wound up having to break the snap rings out and that s not easy. Still had to cut my u joint out after it was all said and done, too. Great work Eric, we all appreciate it!
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I have an adapter for the shop press, been using that for 30 yrs. Most guys use the vic method, with no issues other than breathing in toxic fumes. The local driveshaft shop here will not touch a driveshaft that has been heated. What ever works to get the junkers to back out of the bay.
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I thought marking the shaft orientation was first day of school so weights are not on same side causing vibration. Noticed when shaft removed weights on shaft and yoke were staggered you installed on same side. why is when you have a 50/ 50 chance of getting it right it is always wrong?
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I used to dread U joints. taping the caps. damn needle bearings falling out. havin 2 crawl around underneath. You look like you're havin fun torchin those nylon bearings lol. I'd like to take a torch to some of these newer pieces of crap! .Great video dude. Cool Gulf hat btw
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Melting the plastic is like popping a zit! (gross)
Thanks Eric! Some people have no clue these can even be replaced! They think the whole drive shaft must be replaced as a NON-SERVICEABLE UNIT. (For those who don't know, staked-in U Joints are just as easy)

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Nice to see someone else with a well used punch with the end mushroomed out to make a larger target for you to still miss and hit your hand.
I've never seen one of that type of u-joints, not one of GM's best ideas I would think.
Great video as usual, Eric.

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Leave it to GM to make a simple job difficult. I used to work in a paint and body shop summers when I was in college back in the 70s. I hated to have to do anything mechanical to a GM vehicle. Always something in the way, or a design that made things tough.
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