How to Install Braided Brake Lines
video description
the fortunate thing is the later model festiva WB-WF front stubs and rear drum(with a little modification) assemblys both fit, which not only means I am able to use the more common 4x100 wheel pattern but I am also able to run the larger later model 235x22 vented fronts and 200x70 rear drums. but the thing is the late model lasers also ran the same 235x22 rotors in the base model and 257x22mm front discs.
while I am in here I am also upgrading to braided brake lines, I couldn't find any for the Festiva until I remembered that it was also known as the kia pride in Europe and Asia
I'm just waiting on the set of bearings for the drum rebuild and one of the front lower control arms and I can get to work.
combined with the 15 steelies from a corolla and 195x45r15 kuhmo ku31s on the front its going to be able to stop on a 5c piece
Date: 2020-07-07
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Comments and reviews: 9
Matthew
So, I'm actually (conveniently) looking at doing a full braking system upgrade on my car, soon (just a VW Passat, but I want better brake reaction, and it's about time to replace the brakes, anyway.
SO - I've done brake pads and rotors, in the past, but this will be my first time doing the lines. The video makes it look simple enough (and I know there will likely be a few hiccups, when put into practice, but I did have one major question:
Any time I've done brake work, in the past (none of which has ever had any problems down the line, mind you, I've simply refilled the master cylinder during the final bleeding/after all of the work is done. However, we're told and shown a couple times throughout this tutorial to be sure to top off the fluid after each wheel well's work is finished, at the very least. As I'm not the most mechanically knowledgeable person, can anyone explain to me why I ought to top off the fluid repeatedly throughout the operation, rather than waiting until done?
reply
So, I'm actually (conveniently) looking at doing a full braking system upgrade on my car, soon (just a VW Passat, but I want better brake reaction, and it's about time to replace the brakes, anyway.
SO - I've done brake pads and rotors, in the past, but this will be my first time doing the lines. The video makes it look simple enough (and I know there will likely be a few hiccups, when put into practice, but I did have one major question:
Any time I've done brake work, in the past (none of which has ever had any problems down the line, mind you, I've simply refilled the master cylinder during the final bleeding/after all of the work is done. However, we're told and shown a couple times throughout this tutorial to be sure to top off the fluid after each wheel well's work is finished, at the very least. As I'm not the most mechanically knowledgeable person, can anyone explain to me why I ought to top off the fluid repeatedly throughout the operation, rather than waiting until done?
reply
m60kaf
There's something I don't like about braided lines you're changing a well designed for 100k's manufacturer part for something of totally unknown quality. The difference Im not sure about too, original aren't balloons they are fabric braided tubes inside an outer tube, what you see on the outer is just relatively superficial rubber. Has anyone actually changed them and gone wow the difference is massive? Also lines pop and you loose brakes. No you don't because brake systems are dual circuit and tbh I don't think Id want to drive a car that wasn't dual circuit. Someone mentioned those axle stands, they do look a little unstable even though they have biggish bases, I always use tripod ones
reply
There's something I don't like about braided lines you're changing a well designed for 100k's manufacturer part for something of totally unknown quality. The difference Im not sure about too, original aren't balloons they are fabric braided tubes inside an outer tube, what you see on the outer is just relatively superficial rubber. Has anyone actually changed them and gone wow the difference is massive? Also lines pop and you loose brakes. No you don't because brake systems are dual circuit and tbh I don't think Id want to drive a car that wasn't dual circuit. Someone mentioned those axle stands, they do look a little unstable even though they have biggish bases, I always use tripod ones
reply
M3a9m
I've a car maxima 2004. I have an issue with my brakes.
Brakes feel like spongy when pressing the brake peddle. Brake doesn't feel like it's tuck sharp.
On my car I don't have any Abs or traction control.
Couple of days ago I changed the brake oil with new one. Installed all new brake pads.
Resurfaced /machined disk brakes.
Brake is definitely better but still it's not sharp. Still that spongy feeling.
I really don't know what to do. Master cylinder?
I would appreciate if you guys do another informative video on the matter as you always do.
Thanks in advance.
Regards!
reply
I've a car maxima 2004. I have an issue with my brakes.
Brakes feel like spongy when pressing the brake peddle. Brake doesn't feel like it's tuck sharp.
On my car I don't have any Abs or traction control.
Couple of days ago I changed the brake oil with new one. Installed all new brake pads.
Resurfaced /machined disk brakes.
Brake is definitely better but still it's not sharp. Still that spongy feeling.
I really don't know what to do. Master cylinder?
I would appreciate if you guys do another informative video on the matter as you always do.
Thanks in advance.
Regards!
reply
Kevin
heres a tip for everyone to save a mess and a pain in the ass, take a pry bar and wedge in between the brake pedal to the front of the seat cusion, move the seat foward, you can use anything to do this i just use a pry bar, but it will basicly stop any fluid from coming out and make you life alot easyer, and when i say stop fluid from coming out i dont mean 100% but it slows it down an insane amount and makes the bleeding process alot less work.
And very very important DONT LET BRAKE FLUID GET ON THE PAINT!
reply
heres a tip for everyone to save a mess and a pain in the ass, take a pry bar and wedge in between the brake pedal to the front of the seat cusion, move the seat foward, you can use anything to do this i just use a pry bar, but it will basicly stop any fluid from coming out and make you life alot easyer, and when i say stop fluid from coming out i dont mean 100% but it slows it down an insane amount and makes the bleeding process alot less work.
And very very important DONT LET BRAKE FLUID GET ON THE PAINT!
reply
freakyflow
How i did my upgrade: Newer Higher temp brake fluid 2 bottles, 4 slotted and crossdrilled rotors. 8 ceramic brake pads 5 Goodridge stainless steel lines. Total fluid flush (old fluid was from 2005) whole idea is getting rid of heat and quicker stopping and longer wear times Not for racing but hauling a trailer and a boat and other equipment. really no point of changing lines first then going out and getting rotors and pads It's like buying a gas then shopping for a car
reply
How i did my upgrade: Newer Higher temp brake fluid 2 bottles, 4 slotted and crossdrilled rotors. 8 ceramic brake pads 5 Goodridge stainless steel lines. Total fluid flush (old fluid was from 2005) whole idea is getting rid of heat and quicker stopping and longer wear times Not for racing but hauling a trailer and a boat and other equipment. really no point of changing lines first then going out and getting rotors and pads It's like buying a gas then shopping for a car
reply
Themayseffect
I see that most brake line kits only replace the lines at the suspension mount points(correct me on this component) but why not the entire lines from the Master cylinder. I would assume(like on my car) the lines going although under the car to the rear connectors and the lines going to the front connectors are also made from a rubber material oppose the a steal braided of poly material?
reply
I see that most brake line kits only replace the lines at the suspension mount points(correct me on this component) but why not the entire lines from the Master cylinder. I would assume(like on my car) the lines going although under the car to the rear connectors and the lines going to the front connectors are also made from a rubber material oppose the a steal braided of poly material?
reply
thumper124cc
I don't mean to be a ball breaker but an easy way to explain the difference between rubber and braided lines is that rubber expands under pressure and gets worse with age. It also expands from the heat generated while braking and can become very dangerous. Braided lines expand quite minimally and provide consistent braking and greatly reduce the chance of brake failure.
reply
I don't mean to be a ball breaker but an easy way to explain the difference between rubber and braided lines is that rubber expands under pressure and gets worse with age. It also expands from the heat generated while braking and can become very dangerous. Braided lines expand quite minimally and provide consistent braking and greatly reduce the chance of brake failure.
reply
Tyler
Quick tip clamp the rubber hose close to the caliper. remove banjo bolt. install new hose/ braided brake line on caliper with new copper or aluminum washers. then crack loose the hose from the hard line remove the clip, unscrew the old hose and screw in new hose/ braided line. minimal fluid will spill as little as a drop or two. ton's of ways to do it that's just my way.
reply
Quick tip clamp the rubber hose close to the caliper. remove banjo bolt. install new hose/ braided brake line on caliper with new copper or aluminum washers. then crack loose the hose from the hard line remove the clip, unscrew the old hose and screw in new hose/ braided line. minimal fluid will spill as little as a drop or two. ton's of ways to do it that's just my way.
reply
darkPuppetplayer
Hmm, this time I think there are some things you could do better:
First, use gloves, because the brakefluid isn't that good for your health.
Second, empty the brakesystem, so you don't sprinkle the fluid all over you and the car.
Its also bad for the paint and all plasticparts. Also you can ruin your tools.
But. as always great video!
reply
Hmm, this time I think there are some things you could do better:
First, use gloves, because the brakefluid isn't that good for your health.
Second, empty the brakesystem, so you don't sprinkle the fluid all over you and the car.
Its also bad for the paint and all plasticparts. Also you can ruin your tools.
But. as always great video!
reply
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