Your Drill has 1 BIG Problem! (That we can Hack)
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Date: 2024-11-03
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Comments and reviews: 20
DennisMurphey
I have a Problem with my Model Rail Road. Its an American Flyer from 1950s and it not HO its S which is slightly bigger. And all My track is from the 50s. MY Layout is 30 feet long and 15 feet wide with three loops. I need to make sure all my old track is level. I have these tiny liquid levels like you but it not great. I do have an old Metal Flat car without any wheels. I have 3D printed trucks i designed that have split isolated axles so each wheel in the truck, if metal, can feed track power up to the top. I already have Power Distribution via a Set of Rectifiers to send AC track as DC into Volt regulators for Reverse, Sound and Smoke. So if I had the same Accelerometer Board I could use the flat car to level the track. But only 4 LEDs is too crude. I need 3 or 4 per angle to see how far out and how far to adjust the track. Could you help me figure out the parts and code and schematic. I would be happy to give you one of my metal flat bed cars I have a spare. I f you package the kit I would offer it direct no fee or cost. I would think other scales could also use this kit as most older trains use AC, newer trains use DC so the core of the kit would be the same. Dennis at 'Frankentrain Laboratories' on You Tube
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I have a Problem with my Model Rail Road. Its an American Flyer from 1950s and it not HO its S which is slightly bigger. And all My track is from the 50s. MY Layout is 30 feet long and 15 feet wide with three loops. I need to make sure all my old track is level. I have these tiny liquid levels like you but it not great. I do have an old Metal Flat car without any wheels. I have 3D printed trucks i designed that have split isolated axles so each wheel in the truck, if metal, can feed track power up to the top. I already have Power Distribution via a Set of Rectifiers to send AC track as DC into Volt regulators for Reverse, Sound and Smoke. So if I had the same Accelerometer Board I could use the flat car to level the track. But only 4 LEDs is too crude. I need 3 or 4 per angle to see how far out and how far to adjust the track. Could you help me figure out the parts and code and schematic. I would be happy to give you one of my metal flat bed cars I have a spare. I f you package the kit I would offer it direct no fee or cost. I would think other scales could also use this kit as most older trains use AC, newer trains use DC so the core of the kit would be the same. Dennis at 'Frankentrain Laboratories' on You Tube
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ianjamesevans
The biggest issue I see is that you would first need to make sure whatever you are drilling into is level/perpendicular. Any type of level, spirit or digital, you attach to the drill has this problem. If the stock you are drilling is a couple of degrees off level one way or the other, your hole won't be square to the stock. So you would still need a level and a way to adjust the stock before starting to drill your hole.
The better solution is to use something that measures squareness relative to the stock. Drill guides that sit or clamp on to the stock, for example. A block of wood with a square interior corner cut out is a cheap way of doing this: you just butt your drill bit against the inside corner. As long as the bit touches both sides, you're perpendicular to the stock. It works well for powered drills as well as brace & bit.
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The biggest issue I see is that you would first need to make sure whatever you are drilling into is level/perpendicular. Any type of level, spirit or digital, you attach to the drill has this problem. If the stock you are drilling is a couple of degrees off level one way or the other, your hole won't be square to the stock. So you would still need a level and a way to adjust the stock before starting to drill your hole.
The better solution is to use something that measures squareness relative to the stock. Drill guides that sit or clamp on to the stock, for example. A block of wood with a square interior corner cut out is a cheap way of doing this: you just butt your drill bit against the inside corner. As long as the bit touches both sides, you're perpendicular to the stock. It works well for powered drills as well as brace & bit.
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ErgoBytes
Really fun idea. It's a shame the battery was one of the only places available to mount hardware, it's at the end of the handle and by far experiences the most torque and spin while in use.
To address the sensors going haywire during use, you could take readings over a second or two and average them. With the sensor in-line with the drill axis it may even make it usable while drilling
There might even be some fun concepts to explore with discarding readings that fall outside of a smooth operation range, or have it detect when the trigger is pulled and discard excessive results that correspond with roll.
At the very least, a little averaging would make the initial positioning less finicky. I think this could be an extremely solid product with an iteration or two, making me want to start another project lol
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Really fun idea. It's a shame the battery was one of the only places available to mount hardware, it's at the end of the handle and by far experiences the most torque and spin while in use.
To address the sensors going haywire during use, you could take readings over a second or two and average them. With the sensor in-line with the drill axis it may even make it usable while drilling
There might even be some fun concepts to explore with discarding readings that fall outside of a smooth operation range, or have it detect when the trigger is pulled and discard excessive results that correspond with roll.
At the very least, a little averaging would make the initial positioning less finicky. I think this could be an extremely solid product with an iteration or two, making me want to start another project lol
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swapnilkumar9363
An OLED will be a nice upgrade replacing the 4 LEDs as you can program it to display the angles in the XY plane graphically. And you can also include a distance sensor to drill precise depths, which can be calibrated with touch of a button while using different sized bits. A buzzer can be a better alternative to haptics for obvious reasons as it consumes way less power, can easily be controlled, and our sensory systems are likely to react faster to beeps rather than vibrations on a tool that already vibrates to some extent, specially hammer drills.
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An OLED will be a nice upgrade replacing the 4 LEDs as you can program it to display the angles in the XY plane graphically. And you can also include a distance sensor to drill precise depths, which can be calibrated with touch of a button while using different sized bits. A buzzer can be a better alternative to haptics for obvious reasons as it consumes way less power, can easily be controlled, and our sensory systems are likely to react faster to beeps rather than vibrations on a tool that already vibrates to some extent, specially hammer drills.
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dieterjosef
No o analogue device helps you to drill straight in the wall. The bullseye device helps the most with this, so any electronic device that isn't better tha a spirit level is some silly over engineering to me.
There are round LED displays that could be fixed to the backside of the drill with a little distance for airflow. Than you could attach two sticks to it, left and right, and use two sensors for measuring distances to get the angle right. Yes, a lot of electronics but without that feature it seems useless to me.
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No o analogue device helps you to drill straight in the wall. The bullseye device helps the most with this, so any electronic device that isn't better tha a spirit level is some silly over engineering to me.
There are round LED displays that could be fixed to the backside of the drill with a little distance for airflow. Than you could attach two sticks to it, left and right, and use two sensors for measuring distances to get the angle right. Yes, a lot of electronics but without that feature it seems useless to me.
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brandishwar
Not worth it. Drill guides have been on the market for years and are far easier to use and far more accurate. Self-centering dowel jigs are available as well for getting holes that are centered in what you're drilling. Sure most drill guides are good for drilling only perpendicular, but that's the vast majority of what people are drilling. But there are drill guides that can give you other angles. And there's also the venerable and ubiquitous drill press.
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Not worth it. Drill guides have been on the market for years and are far easier to use and far more accurate. Self-centering dowel jigs are available as well for getting holes that are centered in what you're drilling. Sure most drill guides are good for drilling only perpendicular, but that's the vast majority of what people are drilling. But there are drill guides that can give you other angles. And there's also the venerable and ubiquitous drill press.
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ChEsArE9000
An integrated AccelGyroMagnetometer can be a good option, a full IMU or MPU like the MPU6050 have available libraries on arduino and via sensor fusion you can compensate for magnetic noise from your motor and vibration from the drill, also you can add an lcd to make it nicer on the same space, check out the xDrill kickstarter campaign, is basically what you were brainstorming in this episode, love the thinkering on the videos btw! keep rocking!
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An integrated AccelGyroMagnetometer can be a good option, a full IMU or MPU like the MPU6050 have available libraries on arduino and via sensor fusion you can compensate for magnetic noise from your motor and vibration from the drill, also you can add an lcd to make it nicer on the same space, check out the xDrill kickstarter campaign, is basically what you were brainstorming in this episode, love the thinkering on the videos btw! keep rocking!
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dexasdexas3784
One thing worth mentioning - your calculations about battery life is slightly wrong. Apparently CR2032 batteries declared capacity (lets say 260mAh) is measured at like 0. 1mA draw, and it decreases significantly with higher current draws (Learned that the hard way. You can find CR2032 discharge curves online, at 5mA your 260mAh battery will likely degrade to like 150mAh if not less. Love the project though, Likely will make one myself
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One thing worth mentioning - your calculations about battery life is slightly wrong. Apparently CR2032 batteries declared capacity (lets say 260mAh) is measured at like 0. 1mA draw, and it decreases significantly with higher current draws (Learned that the hard way. You can find CR2032 discharge curves online, at 5mA your 260mAh battery will likely degrade to like 150mAh if not less. Love the project though, Likely will make one myself
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markpapp8784
I don't think it's a practical concept. Even if it were a smaller, integrated manufacturer-built option, I doubt it would be better than a drill guide. You can make a guide really easily by gluing a couple of bits of wood together.
That having been said, I loved it. It was a great bit of overkill and the path to success was fascinating. I'd never heard of that tiny processor before and now my mind is whirring.
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I don't think it's a practical concept. Even if it were a smaller, integrated manufacturer-built option, I doubt it would be better than a drill guide. You can make a guide really easily by gluing a couple of bits of wood together.
That having been said, I loved it. It was a great bit of overkill and the path to success was fascinating. I'd never heard of that tiny processor before and now my mind is whirring.
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petersage5157
I still like the spirit level approach. Another option is a simple guide block, which is quite inexpensive and is specifically designed for drilling square to the surface.
What about simply striking a reference line on the board with a speed square Go slow and visually confirm the bit's alignment a couple times, should be close enough to square/plumb/level.
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I still like the spirit level approach. Another option is a simple guide block, which is quite inexpensive and is specifically designed for drilling square to the surface.
What about simply striking a reference line on the board with a speed square Go slow and visually confirm the bit's alignment a couple times, should be close enough to square/plumb/level.
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edbilek8033
I can see that being useful as you learn the proper position to drill perpendicular-to-the-surface holes (at least the vertical ones. Horizontal also has two axis that need to be managed, up/down you have, but not left/right. You could potentially have two sets of LEDs, but after a week or so, you won't need it (because your muscle memory will take over.
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I can see that being useful as you learn the proper position to drill perpendicular-to-the-surface holes (at least the vertical ones. Horizontal also has two axis that need to be managed, up/down you have, but not left/right. You could potentially have two sets of LEDs, but after a week or so, you won't need it (because your muscle memory will take over.
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jonathangrenier104
Great invention, don't worry, Alibaba wil steal this idea soon; -p.
I like the haptic feed back idea. Try taping in the battery power through the handel as well. Maybe add a small noise signal and a switch to turn it on or off. Or H vs Vertical. Food for thought but this is definitely practical.
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Great invention, don't worry, Alibaba wil steal this idea soon; -p.
I like the haptic feed back idea. Try taping in the battery power through the handel as well. Maybe add a small noise signal and a switch to turn it on or off. Or H vs Vertical. Food for thought but this is definitely practical.
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jakenkid
This easily could have been put inside the drill, with LED's in two places on the drill so whether up or down drilling you can see them. Additionally, adding a VRM and pulling power from the power available from the battery would have been much more beneficial and and added very little extra time/work.
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This easily could have been put inside the drill, with LED's in two places on the drill so whether up or down drilling you can see them. Additionally, adding a VRM and pulling power from the power available from the battery would have been much more beneficial and and added very little extra time/work.
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esuomi
To answer the endo of your video's pondering: This doesn't exist as an electronic gadget since injection molded drill guides with metal bushings for longetivity have been a thing for ages: -) And in economies of scale you can't really beat injection molding, especially since they've got no moving parts.
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To answer the endo of your video's pondering: This doesn't exist as an electronic gadget since injection molded drill guides with metal bushings for longetivity have been a thing for ages: -) And in economies of scale you can't really beat injection molding, especially since they've got no moving parts.
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simplemechanics246
This is only battery drill problem and operator problem. Take almost any electic drill, the real on, without battery and there is nice possible way to hold exactly on centre. not rambo style machine gun, like 99. 9% people does. So yes, it is drill and operator fault, no other faults there
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This is only battery drill problem and operator problem. Take almost any electic drill, the real on, without battery and there is nice possible way to hold exactly on centre. not rambo style machine gun, like 99. 9% people does. So yes, it is drill and operator fault, no other faults there
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trombonista92
cool! now you could add some laser distance sensors that shoot off the battery towards the work piece, at a slight outwards angle, and when you are drilling horizontally, you can calculate the difference in distance betwene the 2 sensors, and use that to light up the horizontal position LEDs
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cool! now you could add some laser distance sensors that shoot off the battery towards the work piece, at a slight outwards angle, and when you are drilling horizontally, you can calculate the difference in distance betwene the 2 sensors, and use that to light up the horizontal position LEDs
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xDMG15x
You could add a relay to the drill motor and set it up to close the circuit only when the drill is level. So you pull the trigger when you’re ready to drill but the motor doesn’t start until you have the drill level. You might also need a switch to change between 1 axis / 2 axis alignment.
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You could add a relay to the drill motor and set it up to close the circuit only when the drill is level. So you pull the trigger when you’re ready to drill but the motor doesn’t start until you have the drill level. You might also need a switch to change between 1 axis / 2 axis alignment.
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guatagel2454
The problem is to find where to attach the circuit to the drill. There are a few surfaces in the drill that are parallel/perpendicular to the drilling axe, and yet you have to verify that they are parallel/perpendicular. That's why there is no universal solution on the shelf.
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The problem is to find where to attach the circuit to the drill. There are a few surfaces in the drill that are parallel/perpendicular to the drilling axe, and yet you have to verify that they are parallel/perpendicular. That's why there is no universal solution on the shelf.
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Deathbyfartz
you could also 3d print a jig that goes around the drillbit, with 3 lasers spaces out, that way when you speed up the drill they're supposed to make 3 circles on your workpiece helping you drill straight, by making sure the circles the lasers make are all round.
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you could also 3d print a jig that goes around the drillbit, with 3 lasers spaces out, that way when you speed up the drill they're supposed to make 3 circles on your workpiece helping you drill straight, by making sure the circles the lasers make are all round.
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CXensation
I wonder if a sound output would be better
If one axis is out you will get a high pitch tone.
When all axis are in range you will get a low pitch tone.
With a narrow band where the pitch gradually changes.
Thanks for the video, food for thoughts.
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I wonder if a sound output would be better
If one axis is out you will get a high pitch tone.
When all axis are in range you will get a low pitch tone.
With a narrow band where the pitch gradually changes.
Thanks for the video, food for thoughts.
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