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zakruti.com » Knowledge, science, education » WIRED
Why It's Almost Impossible to Climb 15 Meters in 5 Secs. (ft. Alex Honnold)

Why It's Almost Impossible to Climb 15 Meters in 5 Secs. (ft. Alex Honnold)

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
In 2020 climbing will be an official Olympic sport with three events -- lead, bouldering and speed climbing. The fastest time up the standard 15 meter speed wall is 5. 48 seconds. Could it be faster? WIRED's Robbie Gonzalez climbs with junior champion Jordan Fishman and professional climber Alex Honnold to find out
Date: 2022-07-06

Comments and reviews: 10


Why did Alex was slower?
Well, here's the explanation:
Alex was climbing like -oh, let's see if this was a real rock or a mountain or just as it's a wall. Second, let's see if u just had one chance to do it, if u miss, you are dead. Third, let's imagine if we were at the last part of a 3, 000 m wall, like just for example El Cap ( I know no one its that crazy to do it, but let's just pick this anyway) and you are climbing the last 10 meters without help or rope-
Let's see the real application and in the real climbing for real use. Not something useless. This is so useless that people when they hit the top button, they let go of the rope to be faster, now imagine they doing this in a real climbing. -
Alex is the best and probably on the real without rope climbing, with just one chance and no chance for miss something, he would beat we all -

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Having variation in the wall seems like it should be built into the sport. Hearing the wall is the same every time just seems ridiculous, what wall is the same every time? It seems like a single known wall is a terrible measure of speed. Is there some reason they use the same wall other than for a -standard- for the sake of time? I guess it can be compared to running on tracks vs free running. Perhaps speed climbing could be broken into -standard same wall- and -variation- speed climbing where all climbers climb a wall they haven't seen before but is the same for the comp and changed between rounds (they also wouldn't be allowed to see it until 10 min before so they can't see other peoples beta or think some up before hand. I think the later would be far more popular and a better measure of actual speed. Problem solving is part of climbing.
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This is super impressive. Honestly gives me more of a respect for when they had the speedwall on American gladiator.
Alex Honnold is straight up my hero though. The dudes feats are absolutely insane. Not in a million years would I scale the things he has scaled with no lines. But seeing him just chill there with his hands in a crack or barely perched and holding a barn door -to rest-. This dude straight up opened the world of rock climbing to me when I saw his Yellowstone feats, I suddenly understood what true grip strength was.

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So. just to put it into perspective the 8. 5 second run was over 15 meters and if this person was 50 kilograms then that means that this 16 year old kid was climbing this wall and outputting 865 watts. more than 2x what pro cycles do. If he was closer to 65 kilograms then it would be around 1100 watts. for someone my weight of 69 kilos. to do it at the world record speed would be 1864 watts. that's more than most eBikes.
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It seems like the ropes are so tight that they actually help them go up faster. I feel like the ropes should be just a little looser. Also, why don't the ropes attach to their back so they're out of their ways? I'm sure there's a good reason for it, but it just looks annoying to have the rope constantly in front of them and in the way.
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I feel like the touching of the button at the top of the wall, to stop the time, is a HUGE oversight. When it comes down to thousandths of a second, just catching your hand or having a shorter arm, could cost you the record. Why not just have a line that the top of the head has to cross?
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Why does everything have to become a race? EVERYTHING!
Something gets lost in that process: our connection to and relationship with - Nature.
Apparently we don't need her anymore, since we can do everything artificially, perhaps even viruses: - (

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Actually, this is really impressive to me! The ONLY reason I clicked on is because of the world's greatest free climber (Alex Honnold! When any of these guys climb the Birj or El Capitan without any ropes or protection, then come come talk to me!
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I think it'd be more interesting if on a selected day each year they changed the placement of the hand and footholds. It seems like it would become very boring working on this exact same speed run. It would especially become boring for viewers.
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I don't think Alex even tried to go fast since he doesn't want to practice or attempt anything that is risky. It would be dangerous to add that muscle memory when he is climbing a big wall
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