
Digitally Cleaning up Sketches - Proko
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Date: 2022-03-14
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Comments and reviews: 10
Lishtenbird
I feel the presenter is more experienced as an actual artist/designer than as a digital editor, since some things are overcomplicated while others are glossed over or omitted.
- Layer duplication/blending instead of just gamma correcting in Levels or Curves, or even Exposure or Brightness/Contrast, is pointless. (It's also weird to have this niche hotkey highlighted, and not the many frequent other ones) Was honestly expecting some high/low frequency editing trick from skin retouching at this point.
- Not using alt-click in Levels to check for clipping on paper texture and pencil. If you actually clip away all the texture into pure white, the rest of your work becomes simpler, but it's a tradeoff. How much you clip depends on sketch material.
- Hue/Saturation is not always the best way to turn your pictures grayscale.
- Using a soft non-100%-opaque brush to paint in selected regions, and spending extra time on that - if you aren't doing gradients intentionally, hard brush or straight fill (Shift-Backspace) is faster. (Also, questionable to use hard-edge Lasso with a brush instead of a graphic tablet pen that lets you preserve more details, but if we assume that the artist only has a mouse, sure) Also, this could've been done with an adjustment layer as well to preserve some more texture if that's important.
-. but if not, then D sets your colors to white & black.
- There are plenty of uses for layer masks and gradients and soft brushes in adjusting that type of stuff, where you need to level out differently shaded parts of images.
- Approach to layerwork is questionable. Again, non-destructible overpaints as well as masks are always superior as they're extremely easy to correct at any point.
Overall, I feel this particular guide can teach newer artists bad practices that will hurt them in the long run. So if you happen to be one of those and are just starting with Photoshop - I encourage you to first learn the very basics of image manipulation in it, and once you get used to them, you'll start knowing on your own what tool exactly is required for solving each particular task at hand.
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I feel the presenter is more experienced as an actual artist/designer than as a digital editor, since some things are overcomplicated while others are glossed over or omitted.
- Layer duplication/blending instead of just gamma correcting in Levels or Curves, or even Exposure or Brightness/Contrast, is pointless. (It's also weird to have this niche hotkey highlighted, and not the many frequent other ones) Was honestly expecting some high/low frequency editing trick from skin retouching at this point.
- Not using alt-click in Levels to check for clipping on paper texture and pencil. If you actually clip away all the texture into pure white, the rest of your work becomes simpler, but it's a tradeoff. How much you clip depends on sketch material.
- Hue/Saturation is not always the best way to turn your pictures grayscale.
- Using a soft non-100%-opaque brush to paint in selected regions, and spending extra time on that - if you aren't doing gradients intentionally, hard brush or straight fill (Shift-Backspace) is faster. (Also, questionable to use hard-edge Lasso with a brush instead of a graphic tablet pen that lets you preserve more details, but if we assume that the artist only has a mouse, sure) Also, this could've been done with an adjustment layer as well to preserve some more texture if that's important.
-. but if not, then D sets your colors to white & black.
- There are plenty of uses for layer masks and gradients and soft brushes in adjusting that type of stuff, where you need to level out differently shaded parts of images.
- Approach to layerwork is questionable. Again, non-destructible overpaints as well as masks are always superior as they're extremely easy to correct at any point.
Overall, I feel this particular guide can teach newer artists bad practices that will hurt them in the long run. So if you happen to be one of those and are just starting with Photoshop - I encourage you to first learn the very basics of image manipulation in it, and once you get used to them, you'll start knowing on your own what tool exactly is required for solving each particular task at hand.
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Arty
What I find challenging in scanning images is when there are a lot of light and delicate lines that I want to keep. This approach works great for boldly defined illustrations like this, but for drawings that depend on their soft shading and really subtle variations in value you can lose a lot. And when you're trying to bring those barely there lines back into sight, the paper grain often comes with it, which can be very annoying if you don't want that.
But good video, definitely learned a few shortcuts, and I've been using Photoshop for years.
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What I find challenging in scanning images is when there are a lot of light and delicate lines that I want to keep. This approach works great for boldly defined illustrations like this, but for drawings that depend on their soft shading and really subtle variations in value you can lose a lot. And when you're trying to bring those barely there lines back into sight, the paper grain often comes with it, which can be very annoying if you don't want that.
But good video, definitely learned a few shortcuts, and I've been using Photoshop for years.
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DonReba
Scott! Scott, I'm going to blow your mind, now. You know that middle marker in the Levels dialogue? That's gamma adjustment. When you duplicate the layer and set it to multiply - this is exactly the same thing as setting gamma to 2. Doing it twice is the same as setting gamma to 4. So, instead of fussing with levels, then duplicating and multiplying layers, adjusting opacity, then fussing with levels again, you can just set gamma in Levels to the value you like once and get the exact same output!
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Scott! Scott, I'm going to blow your mind, now. You know that middle marker in the Levels dialogue? That's gamma adjustment. When you duplicate the layer and set it to multiply - this is exactly the same thing as setting gamma to 2. Doing it twice is the same as setting gamma to 4. So, instead of fussing with levels, then duplicating and multiplying layers, adjusting opacity, then fussing with levels again, you can just set gamma in Levels to the value you like once and get the exact same output!
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Life
This was a great topic. What I find difficult is cleaning up scanned ink drawings that have a pencil drawing underneath. Erasing tends to pull up the ink so I have to go over it again afterwards. Yet even if I erase to death I still find lots of pencil marks in my scans. In the end I just have to painstakingly use a white brush on the edge and get rid of it all. Levels gets rid of a lot but it also makes the ink lines look crustier and not as smooth as I want.
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This was a great topic. What I find difficult is cleaning up scanned ink drawings that have a pencil drawing underneath. Erasing tends to pull up the ink so I have to go over it again afterwards. Yet even if I erase to death I still find lots of pencil marks in my scans. In the end I just have to painstakingly use a white brush on the edge and get rid of it all. Levels gets rid of a lot but it also makes the ink lines look crustier and not as smooth as I want.
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Embran
Odd towards Grey in levels. I always learned use the left handle for black increase and right one for whites with a click and drag. But the Grey one with -Alt/Option- + click & drag the middle handle. I don't remember why because I don't see the difference much, but the -Alt/Option- was vital.
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Odd towards Grey in levels. I always learned use the left handle for black increase and right one for whites with a click and drag. But the Grey one with -Alt/Option- + click & drag the middle handle. I don't remember why because I don't see the difference much, but the -Alt/Option- was vital.
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Walter
Literally needed this cause my scanner hits my pen drawings with so much light it creates a weird blur effect, so i end up trying to turn up with saturation but that just makes all of the soft pen strokes look hard and kills the pattern i set up.
Thanks!
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Literally needed this cause my scanner hits my pen drawings with so much light it creates a weird blur effect, so i end up trying to turn up with saturation but that just makes all of the soft pen strokes look hard and kills the pattern i set up.
Thanks!
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please
I say then: walk in the spirit and you shall not fulfill the lust of the flesh. For the flesh lust against the spirit, and the spirit against the flesh and these are contrary to one another. So that you do not do the things that you wish Galatians 5: 16-17
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I say then: walk in the spirit and you shall not fulfill the lust of the flesh. For the flesh lust against the spirit, and the spirit against the flesh and these are contrary to one another. So that you do not do the things that you wish Galatians 5: 16-17
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Celerii
If u don-t have a scanner I usually do it by getting a good clear photo, then I go and crop it, then up the contrast and adjust black point and the white of it. All this is in a normal gallery, not as clean as this but it works for a better picture.
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If u don-t have a scanner I usually do it by getting a good clear photo, then I go and crop it, then up the contrast and adjust black point and the white of it. All this is in a normal gallery, not as clean as this but it works for a better picture.
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ninjabuddy1
Gimp also has these options if Photoshop is too pricey or you aren't a student.
Lots of fun level and curve settings
Also out of curiosity, why eraser for cleanup instead of just deleting the contents within the lasso?
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Gimp also has these options if Photoshop is too pricey or you aren't a student.
Lots of fun level and curve settings
Also out of curiosity, why eraser for cleanup instead of just deleting the contents within the lasso?
reply
dichotome
Great, I always just used curves with luminosity and sort of eyeballed where the values mostly lied for pencil sketches, levels seems great for this but I wonder if even better results can be had by combining both
reply
Great, I always just used curves with luminosity and sort of eyeballed where the values mostly lied for pencil sketches, levels seems great for this but I wonder if even better results can be had by combining both
reply
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