Dodge Journey - Flex Pipe Replacement & Y-Pipe Repairs
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Date: 2024-04-22
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Comments and reviews: 20
kenchilton
I tend to reach for the slide hammer whenever something goes in that is supposed to come out. That little hook on the end has been through many battles and rarely loses a man. On this pipe, I would have tried heating the outer pipe and then giving it a few hopeful slam tugs before resorting to cutting the inside pipe. In cutting it, if there is no slot in the outside pipe to follow, I would have made a new one with the sawzall cutting inside and outside at the same time until that inside was free. I don’t mind welding rusty things back together as much as fighting to get rusty crap apart.
Also, a useful tool for those tight spaces to knock out those bolt remains is a pneumatic palm nailer. They are short money and kind of like a right angle air hammer. Just don’t get the back of your hand up against something hard. A punch nailer with a hardened pin sometimes works if you can fit it, too. I often need these things where there is no room to swing a hammer. They are not big dog strong, but often position beats power.
And mounting the clamp at an angle is the right way to do it. You need the water to roll off and the undereffect from the sharp point facing down is aerodynamically efficient. Anything sounds right if you can tell the story well enough.
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I tend to reach for the slide hammer whenever something goes in that is supposed to come out. That little hook on the end has been through many battles and rarely loses a man. On this pipe, I would have tried heating the outer pipe and then giving it a few hopeful slam tugs before resorting to cutting the inside pipe. In cutting it, if there is no slot in the outside pipe to follow, I would have made a new one with the sawzall cutting inside and outside at the same time until that inside was free. I don’t mind welding rusty things back together as much as fighting to get rusty crap apart.
Also, a useful tool for those tight spaces to knock out those bolt remains is a pneumatic palm nailer. They are short money and kind of like a right angle air hammer. Just don’t get the back of your hand up against something hard. A punch nailer with a hardened pin sometimes works if you can fit it, too. I often need these things where there is no room to swing a hammer. They are not big dog strong, but often position beats power.
And mounting the clamp at an angle is the right way to do it. You need the water to roll off and the undereffect from the sharp point facing down is aerodynamically efficient. Anything sounds right if you can tell the story well enough.
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jeffberg8015
Some advice for DIYers dealing with a rotted exhaust stud - The Clamp-A-Stud. It's an elongated C clamp with convex and concave fittings for replacing bad studs on exhaust systems. It costs about $30. Once upon a time I had an F150 where the exhaust suddenly got louder. Inspection revealed that one of the manifold studs had rotted away. It would have been nearly impossible for me to replace it properly with the tools I had, so based on a friend's recommendation I tried the Clamp-A-Stud. Went on easy and worked great. The exhaust was still tight when I sold the truck years later. I'm sure that professionals would never consider such a shortcut, especially ones like Eric O who rightly believe that getting things back as close to OE as possible is the best way to go, but I think it might be just the ticket for people who want to keep their vehicle healthy at as low a cost as possible. Also FWIW when I install an exhaust clamp I prefer to install it sideways where possible to minimize the chance of it catching and snagging on something.
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Some advice for DIYers dealing with a rotted exhaust stud - The Clamp-A-Stud. It's an elongated C clamp with convex and concave fittings for replacing bad studs on exhaust systems. It costs about $30. Once upon a time I had an F150 where the exhaust suddenly got louder. Inspection revealed that one of the manifold studs had rotted away. It would have been nearly impossible for me to replace it properly with the tools I had, so based on a friend's recommendation I tried the Clamp-A-Stud. Went on easy and worked great. The exhaust was still tight when I sold the truck years later. I'm sure that professionals would never consider such a shortcut, especially ones like Eric O who rightly believe that getting things back as close to OE as possible is the best way to go, but I think it might be just the ticket for people who want to keep their vehicle healthy at as low a cost as possible. Also FWIW when I install an exhaust clamp I prefer to install it sideways where possible to minimize the chance of it catching and snagging on something.
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tomoakhill8825
Eric O does a magnificent job _teaching_ how to diagnose a problem. His descriptions of his step-by-step process to track down the fault are amazing examples of instruction at its _best_! I love them, but not half as much as the nuts-and-bolts, wrench and screwdriver videos such as this one. I would love it if Eric O posted a head-gasket replacement, or any other major repair. I _know_ why he doesn't--filming _doubles_ the time the job takes. One of my recent favorites, was the replacement of the front structural frame of a Subaru. The heavy metal that holds the engine and the front wheel assemblies. Marvelous.
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Eric O does a magnificent job _teaching_ how to diagnose a problem. His descriptions of his step-by-step process to track down the fault are amazing examples of instruction at its _best_! I love them, but not half as much as the nuts-and-bolts, wrench and screwdriver videos such as this one. I would love it if Eric O posted a head-gasket replacement, or any other major repair. I _know_ why he doesn't--filming _doubles_ the time the job takes. One of my recent favorites, was the replacement of the front structural frame of a Subaru. The heavy metal that holds the engine and the front wheel assemblies. Marvelous.
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CraigGrant-sh3in
I was changing the muffler on my car. I was doing it at the place my brother in law works so he was there helping. He jumped in and began trying to take off a New York state 12 year old muffler clamp. He sprayed penetrating oil on the nuts and struggled and swore and struggled while I stood there telling him I have a grinder with a cut wheel and a new clamp but he insisted on going at it like a Winnie the Poo trying to get his head out of the honey jar. He did the same when I changed the thermostat that was tough to get at.
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I was changing the muffler on my car. I was doing it at the place my brother in law works so he was there helping. He jumped in and began trying to take off a New York state 12 year old muffler clamp. He sprayed penetrating oil on the nuts and struggled and swore and struggled while I stood there telling him I have a grinder with a cut wheel and a new clamp but he insisted on going at it like a Winnie the Poo trying to get his head out of the honey jar. He did the same when I changed the thermostat that was tough to get at.
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swallowinn4410
Hello Eric: As you mentioned many different methods for removing the inner sleve piece. One reasonably quick method if doing a lot of exhaust work. Take a pipe expander weld a slide hammer rod and weight on to the expander. Expand tool inside exhaust pipe until it catches inner pipe and a couple of whacks with the weight and the piece pops out. Not something for the occasional exhaust repair but we'll worth the simple fabrication for someone doing frequent exhaust work. Good job keep the videos coming.
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Hello Eric: As you mentioned many different methods for removing the inner sleve piece. One reasonably quick method if doing a lot of exhaust work. Take a pipe expander weld a slide hammer rod and weight on to the expander. Expand tool inside exhaust pipe until it catches inner pipe and a couple of whacks with the weight and the piece pops out. Not something for the occasional exhaust repair but we'll worth the simple fabrication for someone doing frequent exhaust work. Good job keep the videos coming.
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firstielasty1162
I hope you get a good deal on oxygen and acetylene, you must use quite a bit. That seems like a weird business, prices all over and going up fast, one welding gas company buying another.
I got a plasma cutter to reduce gas use, but it's different, does not replace a torch, even if just cutting, and useless of course for heating stuff to expand it, etc.
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I hope you get a good deal on oxygen and acetylene, you must use quite a bit. That seems like a weird business, prices all over and going up fast, one welding gas company buying another.
I got a plasma cutter to reduce gas use, but it's different, does not replace a torch, even if just cutting, and useless of course for heating stuff to expand it, etc.
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cuebuilder969
The best way that I have found to remove the inner pipe is to weld a 3/8ths bolt to the inner pipe with the threads facing out. Then I thread on my slide hammer and it pops it right out. If I'm in a position that I can't get a slide hammer in there I will cut through both pipes and remove the inner. After I'm done fitting my pipes I just weld up the outside pipe.
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The best way that I have found to remove the inner pipe is to weld a 3/8ths bolt to the inner pipe with the threads facing out. Then I thread on my slide hammer and it pops it right out. If I'm in a position that I can't get a slide hammer in there I will cut through both pipes and remove the inner. After I'm done fitting my pipes I just weld up the outside pipe.
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davearthur514
To remove that piece of exhaust have you tried laying a couple of beads of weld longways on the inside piece to see if it shrinks the pipe enough to remove it, I've seen it done on bigger pieces so it does work. Or don't cut the old pipe so close to the join so you have material to hold, twist and pull. Great video for sure Mr. O
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To remove that piece of exhaust have you tried laying a couple of beads of weld longways on the inside piece to see if it shrinks the pipe enough to remove it, I've seen it done on bigger pieces so it does work. Or don't cut the old pipe so close to the join so you have material to hold, twist and pull. Great video for sure Mr. O
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jeremypilot1015
Honest question, you had the flanges at the manifold loose, why not cut the flex pipe at that point and then have easier access to the rear flange like fish the assembly out separate, put back together and reinsert then bolt the front flange together. Just curious I wasn't there so maybe it's a clearance issue.
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Honest question, you had the flanges at the manifold loose, why not cut the flex pipe at that point and then have easier access to the rear flange like fish the assembly out separate, put back together and reinsert then bolt the front flange together. Just curious I wasn't there so maybe it's a clearance issue.
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hansjansen7047
Just a question, when you had the inner pipe started to curl inward and slip farther inside, would you be able to grab that curled up lip with a long nosed visegrip and pull it out with a slide hammer, It was obviously loose enough to slide in. The hook that you ended up with could have done it too.
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Just a question, when you had the inner pipe started to curl inward and slip farther inside, would you be able to grab that curled up lip with a long nosed visegrip and pull it out with a slide hammer, It was obviously loose enough to slide in. The hook that you ended up with could have done it too.
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ricka5471
I had to change the crossunder pipe on my 2010 Grand Caravan last year on my back in my shop. I enlisted the same tools you did except for the lift. That would have been much easier. Thanks for the education and a trip down that memory lane.
Keep up making your videos as I learn alot from you.
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I had to change the crossunder pipe on my 2010 Grand Caravan last year on my back in my shop. I enlisted the same tools you did except for the lift. That would have been much easier. Thanks for the education and a trip down that memory lane.
Keep up making your videos as I learn alot from you.
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kg4gav
I wonder if they make, or someone could fabricobble an expanding collet that would slip into and past the inside pipe and expand just enough to catch the lip, then you could attach a slide hammer or wail on it with lil' nasty to pull the inner pire section out.
I'm sure that's easier said than done.
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I wonder if they make, or someone could fabricobble an expanding collet that would slip into and past the inside pipe and expand just enough to catch the lip, then you could attach a slide hammer or wail on it with lil' nasty to pull the inner pire section out.
I'm sure that's easier said than done.
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jimkleinert7310
OMG! How could you do that to a loyal customer You knoww those clamps only hold half of the pipe when you put them on sideways. I hope she never comes back!
Great fun to watch this one. reminded me why I always take mine to Midas. Some other fool gets to deal with the hassles. Thanks.
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OMG! How could you do that to a loyal customer You knoww those clamps only hold half of the pipe when you put them on sideways. I hope she never comes back!
Great fun to watch this one. reminded me why I always take mine to Midas. Some other fool gets to deal with the hassles. Thanks.
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petes8849
Suggestion: when you were trying to cut the aluminized pipe with the oxytorch, & having a problem, keep in mind that while an oxytorch cannot cut aluminum or stainless, a plasma cutter will. Perhaps a plasma cutter would have done that job. They are getting pretty cheap. Might be worth a try.
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Suggestion: when you were trying to cut the aluminized pipe with the oxytorch, & having a problem, keep in mind that while an oxytorch cannot cut aluminum or stainless, a plasma cutter will. Perhaps a plasma cutter would have done that job. They are getting pretty cheap. Might be worth a try.
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fredhankes5608
The alloy pipe is probably a 400 series stainless steel, the oems use it in the hotter sections of the exhaust system because it’s cheaper than 300 series. Even though it’s considered stainless it does rust, but it lasts considerably longer than aluminized mild steel
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The alloy pipe is probably a 400 series stainless steel, the oems use it in the hotter sections of the exhaust system because it’s cheaper than 300 series. Even though it’s considered stainless it does rust, but it lasts considerably longer than aluminized mild steel
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meyertkg
That is a job I could still do but with new car problems I can no longer do I will never keep a car long enough to replace an exhaust. When the cut-off was stuck in the pipe I knew what tool to use and he pulled the seal puller out of the toolbox.
box.
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That is a job I could still do but with new car problems I can no longer do I will never keep a car long enough to replace an exhaust. When the cut-off was stuck in the pipe I knew what tool to use and he pulled the seal puller out of the toolbox.
box.
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edwardhugus2772
This video was Exhausting. Seeing where those bolts were I'd say Thinking that they'll come right out is a Pipe dream. but you rolled up your sleeve and got it done. Old Vic and Lil Nasty pulled thru in the clutch. 1 question. WhatNo Brakecleen
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This video was Exhausting. Seeing where those bolts were I'd say Thinking that they'll come right out is a Pipe dream. but you rolled up your sleeve and got it done. Old Vic and Lil Nasty pulled thru in the clutch. 1 question. WhatNo Brakecleen
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ralphwatten2426
Sawzall on that inner sleeved pipe rather than the gas wrench for me or even a hack saw blade to weaken it enough to bend it in and extract. I take my wife's car to the muffler shop but do my own truck myself. It's just easier. 110, 154-
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Sawzall on that inner sleeved pipe rather than the gas wrench for me or even a hack saw blade to weaken it enough to bend it in and extract. I take my wife's car to the muffler shop but do my own truck myself. It's just easier. 110, 154-
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31terikennedy
Next time don't cut right at the band clamp, go back far enough to leave yourself a hand hold. The advantage of band clamps is they don't crimp the pipes together. To paraphrase Dean Wormer: I hate those muffler jobs! : D
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Next time don't cut right at the band clamp, go back far enough to leave yourself a hand hold. The advantage of band clamps is they don't crimp the pipes together. To paraphrase Dean Wormer: I hate those muffler jobs! : D
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basshunter428
I sometimes use an M12 Hackzall (and a new Milwaukee blade) to get between the flanges. And yes you still have to punch, drill, etc. them out, but it does work if you don't have a surgical fire axe or required skills.
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I sometimes use an M12 Hackzall (and a new Milwaukee blade) to get between the flanges. And yes you still have to punch, drill, etc. them out, but it does work if you don't have a surgical fire axe or required skills.
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