How To Repair Stripped Out Drain Plug Threads
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
Rob
I saw this many times in my 40 years as senior tech at a large Honda dealership. The factory drain plug for aluminum pans is longer than normal so as to distribute the load over more threads but many oil change shops will replace a perfect drain plug with a shorter one (just to sell a plug) and then likely overtighten it as well, stripping the hole. In my opinion, if you use the proper plug and reasonable torque you will never deform or strip a pan, steel or aluminum.
Also, let me say that I am highly impressed by your diagnostic abilities and knowledge of so many brands and models! I had the luxury of only having to know and work on one brand and I felt lucky for that. I'm really enjoying your attitude and personality and wish you the best of everything.
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I saw this many times in my 40 years as senior tech at a large Honda dealership. The factory drain plug for aluminum pans is longer than normal so as to distribute the load over more threads but many oil change shops will replace a perfect drain plug with a shorter one (just to sell a plug) and then likely overtighten it as well, stripping the hole. In my opinion, if you use the proper plug and reasonable torque you will never deform or strip a pan, steel or aluminum.
Also, let me say that I am highly impressed by your diagnostic abilities and knowledge of so many brands and models! I had the luxury of only having to know and work on one brand and I felt lucky for that. I'm really enjoying your attitude and personality and wish you the best of everything.
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Rachael
Time-Sert is approved by several car manufacturers including Honda (which is what we have. Thats the main reason I spent the money on the kit. I dont want a half ass fix that will require replacing the pan in a couple years. The car is 21 years old. We have 4 Hondas all around the same year so I figure it may come in handy in the future.
I dont know if my mechanics shop over tightened the bolt or if it was just worn out. Usually do it ourselves but it was in for some other work. The oil leak started out slow but soon I had a constant puddle under my car. Gonna attempt to do this without the benefit of a lift. hopefully I can get enough leverage under a ramp. Its not like I have carpal tunnel already or anything lol. Better stock up on ibuprofen now.
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Time-Sert is approved by several car manufacturers including Honda (which is what we have. Thats the main reason I spent the money on the kit. I dont want a half ass fix that will require replacing the pan in a couple years. The car is 21 years old. We have 4 Hondas all around the same year so I figure it may come in handy in the future.
I dont know if my mechanics shop over tightened the bolt or if it was just worn out. Usually do it ourselves but it was in for some other work. The oil leak started out slow but soon I had a constant puddle under my car. Gonna attempt to do this without the benefit of a lift. hopefully I can get enough leverage under a ramp. Its not like I have carpal tunnel already or anything lol. Better stock up on ibuprofen now.
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Keith
I have an LS1 engine which has always worried me. I don't know if it was made to have an insert in the oil drain or it was a repair job but it appears to have a HeliCoil and it appears to be miss installed. The insert is 3 or 4 threads deep below the outside of the pan and the big problem is it seems to have a burr at the start of the threads. Every time the plug goes in it shaves off more of the thread on the plug. I am wondering if I could use a pick to bend the end of the coil back enough that i could put needle nose pliers in and twist it out, Then I would put a timesert or something similar in. I guess I could just continue till the plug strips and then put in a new plug. I would like to put it right though.
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I have an LS1 engine which has always worried me. I don't know if it was made to have an insert in the oil drain or it was a repair job but it appears to have a HeliCoil and it appears to be miss installed. The insert is 3 or 4 threads deep below the outside of the pan and the big problem is it seems to have a burr at the start of the threads. Every time the plug goes in it shaves off more of the thread on the plug. I am wondering if I could use a pick to bend the end of the coil back enough that i could put needle nose pliers in and twist it out, Then I would put a timesert or something similar in. I guess I could just continue till the plug strips and then put in a new plug. I would like to put it right though.
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Peter
My neighbors 2016 kia optima was leaking a lot of oil from the drain plug so I suggested using the repair plug, we tried everything but finally I told him it would be better to just install a new oil pan, they are cheap for that car even a factory one was around 60 bucks, we got one from auto zone and it was easy to install but the original was put on with this super strong adhesive silicone, I had to heat it up carefully to get to loosen enough to even get a putty knife in trying not to gouge the engine, it finally broke free, he's changed his oil a couple of times since and no more leaks, he bought it used from enterprise rental sales, he drives a lot mostly highway.
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My neighbors 2016 kia optima was leaking a lot of oil from the drain plug so I suggested using the repair plug, we tried everything but finally I told him it would be better to just install a new oil pan, they are cheap for that car even a factory one was around 60 bucks, we got one from auto zone and it was easy to install but the original was put on with this super strong adhesive silicone, I had to heat it up carefully to get to loosen enough to even get a putty knife in trying not to gouge the engine, it finally broke free, he's changed his oil a couple of times since and no more leaks, he bought it used from enterprise rental sales, he drives a lot mostly highway.
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Cratecruncher
I got lazy and started taking my cars to the neighborhood Oil Changes To Go. One day the nucklehead in the pit cross threaded my drain plug. I went to fix it with a Helicoil and realized the frame rail was too close to get a tool in. Then I realized there was a welded in crossmember preventing the pan from being dropped. I ended up taking half the car apart to get the engine out to do a simple repair. I've never allowed anyone to change my oil since and that was twenty five years ago. Why do they hire people with no mechanical ability? People that have some don't work that cheap!
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I got lazy and started taking my cars to the neighborhood Oil Changes To Go. One day the nucklehead in the pit cross threaded my drain plug. I went to fix it with a Helicoil and realized the frame rail was too close to get a tool in. Then I realized there was a welded in crossmember preventing the pan from being dropped. I ended up taking half the car apart to get the engine out to do a simple repair. I've never allowed anyone to change my oil since and that was twenty five years ago. Why do they hire people with no mechanical ability? People that have some don't work that cheap!
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Brandon
I've got a chevy truck with the 8. 1L that leaks oil from the drain plug. Put 2 new ones in and still leaked. Next oil change I looked closer and noticed it had previously been heli coiled by someone. I've been using the OEM drain plugs with the rubber gasket made on the end of it. Kind of going along with what you said at the end of the video with the crush washer doing the sealing, I would think it should still seal it just fine. Do you think that finding a new drain plug where I could use just a copper crush washer would work?
Anyone have any thoughts?
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I've got a chevy truck with the 8. 1L that leaks oil from the drain plug. Put 2 new ones in and still leaked. Next oil change I looked closer and noticed it had previously been heli coiled by someone. I've been using the OEM drain plugs with the rubber gasket made on the end of it. Kind of going along with what you said at the end of the video with the crush washer doing the sealing, I would think it should still seal it just fine. Do you think that finding a new drain plug where I could use just a copper crush washer would work?
Anyone have any thoughts?
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Michael
Years ago I took a Honda Prelude Si I had recently bought to one of those quick lube places. They did the same thing to it. And in typical fashion when I found the leak the next day and went back they would not own up to the damages or cover the repairs. I learned no matter how good a coupon deal is do it yourself or pay a real mechanic to change the oil.
Now I have a diesel Jeep with an Aluminum oil pan and a really short threaded plug. I installed Fumoto valve on the first oil change with that. Makes it so easy and no worries about stripped oil pans.
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Years ago I took a Honda Prelude Si I had recently bought to one of those quick lube places. They did the same thing to it. And in typical fashion when I found the leak the next day and went back they would not own up to the damages or cover the repairs. I learned no matter how good a coupon deal is do it yourself or pay a real mechanic to change the oil.
Now I have a diesel Jeep with an Aluminum oil pan and a really short threaded plug. I installed Fumoto valve on the first oil change with that. Makes it so easy and no worries about stripped oil pans.
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Eggbert
I've used Time-Serts a few times to repair aluminum oil pans. My only issue, is that sometimes there's not much surface area left for the washer to seal due to the counterbore operation. Then you have to fiddle about with various style washers, and I don't like the plastic ones. You don't want to over-torque and split them, not do you want to under torque and have them loosen and fall out.
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I've used Time-Serts a few times to repair aluminum oil pans. My only issue, is that sometimes there's not much surface area left for the washer to seal due to the counterbore operation. Then you have to fiddle about with various style washers, and I don't like the plastic ones. You don't want to over-torque and split them, not do you want to under torque and have them loosen and fall out.
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markam
i had to fix a guys BMW that someone stripped the oil drain plug. i took the old one to the parts store and bought one a size larger and a drill bit and Roberts your father brother it worked. it was a little z 4. and he sold it later for about 1000 bucks. if i didn't have a family i would have bought it.
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i had to fix a guys BMW that someone stripped the oil drain plug. i took the old one to the parts store and bought one a size larger and a drill bit and Roberts your father brother it worked. it was a little z 4. and he sold it later for about 1000 bucks. if i didn't have a family i would have bought it.
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Jay
I wonder if putting low pressure air into the block while cutting the new hole would work to push all shavings out? Like a shop vac exhaust partially blowing into oil fill hole? Probably some risk to seals, but just thinking on the fly here. Another great video!
reply
I wonder if putting low pressure air into the block while cutting the new hole would work to push all shavings out? Like a shop vac exhaust partially blowing into oil fill hole? Probably some risk to seals, but just thinking on the fly here. Another great video!
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