Buick LeSabre: HVAC Back Lighting Bulb Replacement
video description
And when it came time to slip the blue rubber bulb cover on the bulb, I sprayed silicone lube on a Q-tip, and applied silicone inside the bulb cover. I let it air dry just a bit to evaporate the propellant & leave a silicone film. Of course the bulb slid on nicely, but I hope the silicone doesn't harm the rubber. I wanted to put a drop of hot melt glue on the base of the bulb to secure it, but was afraid to, if a bulb burns out before I junk the car, it would seem hard to get the bad bulb out then, especially since I don't know how I could make sure the hot melt glue doesn't go up on that rubber bulb cover. So I'm chancing that there will be no vibration damage issues. I haven't tested the unit yet, just wanted to share the idea of blowing out solder from the holes when it can't be sucked out, but no doubt everyone but me already knew that.
Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 9
khrwjt
The problem with opening up the hole with a drill bit is if it's a plated through hole. That means the sides of the hole are carrying signal between layers. If the drill bit scraps away the side of the hole then the signal might not get to some internal layers. If it's a two layer board you're OK if you dab solder on both sides.
My way would be to add more solder along with some flux. Till you have a nice big wet drop of solder. Then use the solder sucker. The extra solder spreads out the heat to everywhere in the hole helps conduct the heat from the iron. You need a well tinned tip. Sal Amoniac. The big drop of solder creates something the vacuum of the solder sucker can grab on to and pull out. Similar technique for using wick. When using wick always spread some flux on the wick first. And don't use old tarnished wick. It must be new and copper pink.
And finally another method. Add a bunch of solder with flux. Get it good and hot. Tap the PCB on the table and commonly the whole drop of solder pops off carrying the solder from the inside of the hole. Actually I try this first before I mess with the solder sucker or wick.
Also, don't use lube to slide that rubber boot on. Use spit. It dries and the boot locks in place.
reply
The problem with opening up the hole with a drill bit is if it's a plated through hole. That means the sides of the hole are carrying signal between layers. If the drill bit scraps away the side of the hole then the signal might not get to some internal layers. If it's a two layer board you're OK if you dab solder on both sides.
My way would be to add more solder along with some flux. Till you have a nice big wet drop of solder. Then use the solder sucker. The extra solder spreads out the heat to everywhere in the hole helps conduct the heat from the iron. You need a well tinned tip. Sal Amoniac. The big drop of solder creates something the vacuum of the solder sucker can grab on to and pull out. Similar technique for using wick. When using wick always spread some flux on the wick first. And don't use old tarnished wick. It must be new and copper pink.
And finally another method. Add a bunch of solder with flux. Get it good and hot. Tap the PCB on the table and commonly the whole drop of solder pops off carrying the solder from the inside of the hole. Actually I try this first before I mess with the solder sucker or wick.
Also, don't use lube to slide that rubber boot on. Use spit. It dries and the boot locks in place.
reply
Peter
A 2006 Hyundai elantra I had bought needed some bulbs replacing but luckily they were the old fashioned kind with sockets that twist in but they had green silicone covers which either had fused to the bulbs or were shrink wrapped on, they just ripped when I tried to remove them so I thought, what would Mckyver so, so I bought a pack of permanent magic markers at Wal-Mart for buck fifty or something and used the green one to color the bulbs, 3 years later they still look great you can't tell the difference the original and the new ones.
reply
A 2006 Hyundai elantra I had bought needed some bulbs replacing but luckily they were the old fashioned kind with sockets that twist in but they had green silicone covers which either had fused to the bulbs or were shrink wrapped on, they just ripped when I tried to remove them so I thought, what would Mckyver so, so I bought a pack of permanent magic markers at Wal-Mart for buck fifty or something and used the green one to color the bulbs, 3 years later they still look great you can't tell the difference the original and the new ones.
reply
mike
Use a solder pump, not a drill. The multi sided boards have via's installed in holes to attach the board's layers one to the other. The only drilling on a PCB occurs at the board's manufacture. Then, board layers are aligned, via's are installed, followed by components and finally, wave solder. Clean oxidized surfaces gently with a clean pencil eraser before soldering.
reply
Use a solder pump, not a drill. The multi sided boards have via's installed in holes to attach the board's layers one to the other. The only drilling on a PCB occurs at the board's manufacture. Then, board layers are aligned, via's are installed, followed by components and finally, wave solder. Clean oxidized surfaces gently with a clean pencil eraser before soldering.
reply
James
To open up the holes after you remove the old bulb. Use a stainless steel pin. Heat up the hole, stick the pin in it. Remove the heat, and let to cool. The stainless steel pin will not will stick to the solder, and you can pull it back out. Now you have a hole the size of the pin.
reply
To open up the holes after you remove the old bulb. Use a stainless steel pin. Heat up the hole, stick the pin in it. Remove the heat, and let to cool. The stainless steel pin will not will stick to the solder, and you can pull it back out. Now you have a hole the size of the pin.
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canadatransistor
soldering / desoldering tip: always pre-tin your iron. This transfers heat more efficiently and has less chance ruining traces on the circuit boards. same thing. pre-tin and use solder sucker. you'll have a much easier experience. Good job with repair
reply
soldering / desoldering tip: always pre-tin your iron. This transfers heat more efficiently and has less chance ruining traces on the circuit boards. same thing. pre-tin and use solder sucker. you'll have a much easier experience. Good job with repair
reply
Ranchu
I was loosing my mind watching this. A drill bit, really.
But it was good clean fun. His skillset as a mechanic is beyond mine. So it is unfair to hold him to a standard he was trained to.
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I was loosing my mind watching this. A drill bit, really.
But it was good clean fun. His skillset as a mechanic is beyond mine. So it is unfair to hold him to a standard he was trained to.
reply
Smitty
Nice work! You did fine from where I'm sitting. Bonus for me, I get to see how all these components come apart so I can do the job lightning fast on my buddy's car. Thanks man!
reply
Nice work! You did fine from where I'm sitting. Bonus for me, I get to see how all these components come apart so I can do the job lightning fast on my buddy's car. Thanks man!
reply
Paul1958R
Eric
Great video and repair. You should buy a small PCB vise. Dont drill thru plated-thru holes to remove solder.
Ivan is smiling!
SMA#1
God bless
Paul
reply
Eric
Great video and repair. You should buy a small PCB vise. Dont drill thru plated-thru holes to remove solder.
Ivan is smiling!
SMA#1
God bless
Paul
reply
Stephen
Well done. If a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right. You've gone the extra mile again for your customer. Hope they appreciate your workmanship. Again well done
reply
Well done. If a jobs worth doing, its worth doing right. You've gone the extra mile again for your customer. Hope they appreciate your workmanship. Again well done
reply
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