Chrysler / Dodge: TIPM Repair - No Wipers
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Date: 2020-08-05
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Comments and reviews: 10
philstuf
I'm about 26 minutes in. I feel like you had 2 things working against you here: A low thermal capacity iron (those are BIG copper planes on those boards, and likely overcome your iron's thermal capacity) and a less than reliable way to remove the solder (in a single shot.
You're in the right direction; with double-sided or multi-layer boards, vacuum removal methods are about the only thing that work, aside from a heat soak of the board/leads at the melting point (Heat gun, air-based desoldering tool, etc)
Your theory is spot on, especially when you tossed away the wick. I have a Hakko FR-300 deslodering tool that would be the equivalent to Big Nasty to those solder joints. It's also a 140 Watt machine with an electric vacuum pump that retails for about 300. If you don't work on circuit boards often, you'd likely never see the value, but if your industry is PCB repair, it makes sense.
Big nasty makes no financial sense for me to purchase in my profession, but my Hakko would also make no sense to you to purchase for your profession.
Just saying, given the tools you had, Kudos (yet again) Mr. O.
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I'm about 26 minutes in. I feel like you had 2 things working against you here: A low thermal capacity iron (those are BIG copper planes on those boards, and likely overcome your iron's thermal capacity) and a less than reliable way to remove the solder (in a single shot.
You're in the right direction; with double-sided or multi-layer boards, vacuum removal methods are about the only thing that work, aside from a heat soak of the board/leads at the melting point (Heat gun, air-based desoldering tool, etc)
Your theory is spot on, especially when you tossed away the wick. I have a Hakko FR-300 deslodering tool that would be the equivalent to Big Nasty to those solder joints. It's also a 140 Watt machine with an electric vacuum pump that retails for about 300. If you don't work on circuit boards often, you'd likely never see the value, but if your industry is PCB repair, it makes sense.
Big nasty makes no financial sense for me to purchase in my profession, but my Hakko would also make no sense to you to purchase for your profession.
Just saying, given the tools you had, Kudos (yet again) Mr. O.
reply
TS
Thanks to AvE's reduction of complex problems to lego pieces, I decided to pick up a FREE professional chiropractor/physical therapist table I saw on Craigslist, even though the Swiss-made actuator to raise and lower the table didn't work. I figured the problem had to be inside on a circuit board and I would probably be able to smell what broke. Sure enough, the solder around two capacitors had melted away. I figured the capacitors were fried and tried to find replacements, but even the local electronic geek shop couldn't find the exact same ones. I wrote to the Swiss company to see if I could buy just two replacement capacitors and they offered to send me a new actuator assembly for 600. It dawned on me that the capacitors might still work, but just needed to be resoldered. I re-soldered them in the most brutal and unimpressive manner possible, but it worked! Two weeks later I sold the free table to a physical therapist for 450.
The point is, don't fear the pixies.
reply
Thanks to AvE's reduction of complex problems to lego pieces, I decided to pick up a FREE professional chiropractor/physical therapist table I saw on Craigslist, even though the Swiss-made actuator to raise and lower the table didn't work. I figured the problem had to be inside on a circuit board and I would probably be able to smell what broke. Sure enough, the solder around two capacitors had melted away. I figured the capacitors were fried and tried to find replacements, but even the local electronic geek shop couldn't find the exact same ones. I wrote to the Swiss company to see if I could buy just two replacement capacitors and they offered to send me a new actuator assembly for 600. It dawned on me that the capacitors might still work, but just needed to be resoldered. I re-soldered them in the most brutal and unimpressive manner possible, but it worked! Two weeks later I sold the free table to a physical therapist for 450.
The point is, don't fear the pixies.
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R.
The copper braid solder sucker is still the first choice of de-soldering experts--ask me how I know. Here are a few tips for your success next time:
Use a solder iron between 25-35 Watts with a FLAT tip at least 1/2 the width of the braid you're using. Trim the braid square on the end--no loose ends. Heat the iron. Place the end of the braid over the whole solder pad. Place your iron on top of the braid so that as much of the flat tip as possible contacts the braid. Heat the braid for about 2-3 seconds and pull the iron and braid away. Success! Don't go over them again. Tap each solder pad with a microhammer and pull the component out of the board.
The braid de-solder works---everything else sucks---confused? LOL
Rich
reply
The copper braid solder sucker is still the first choice of de-soldering experts--ask me how I know. Here are a few tips for your success next time:
Use a solder iron between 25-35 Watts with a FLAT tip at least 1/2 the width of the braid you're using. Trim the braid square on the end--no loose ends. Heat the iron. Place the end of the braid over the whole solder pad. Place your iron on top of the braid so that as much of the flat tip as possible contacts the braid. Heat the braid for about 2-3 seconds and pull the iron and braid away. Success! Don't go over them again. Tap each solder pad with a microhammer and pull the component out of the board.
The braid de-solder works---everything else sucks---confused? LOL
Rich
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airborne63
The solder wick has flux in the braid, which is how it sucks up the solder. They come in narrower widths than what you have. and the narrower wick is what you needed. Put the wick on top of the connection, then heat it from the top through the wick. :) Solder suckers work great too. Same deal, heat up the joint, and with the iron still there, suck the solder out. Keep in mind that plated through holes. are sensitive, so don't go poking or pushing components through the holes. just suck out all the solder. Takes a bit of practice. have fun!
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The solder wick has flux in the braid, which is how it sucks up the solder. They come in narrower widths than what you have. and the narrower wick is what you needed. Put the wick on top of the connection, then heat it from the top through the wick. :) Solder suckers work great too. Same deal, heat up the joint, and with the iron still there, suck the solder out. Keep in mind that plated through holes. are sensitive, so don't go poking or pushing components through the holes. just suck out all the solder. Takes a bit of practice. have fun!
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Oce's
I am about to take this endeavor on a 2008 dodge nitro 3. 7 Liter with a faulty power rear lock issue. The rear power locks are not operating at all just the fronts. After repairing a broken wire on the rear right passenger door, which I thought was going to fix the issue, it didn't. I decided to look up issues with this same problem. The only thing that came up was the TIPM. Is there another way to actually double check it? Please let me know.
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I am about to take this endeavor on a 2008 dodge nitro 3. 7 Liter with a faulty power rear lock issue. The rear power locks are not operating at all just the fronts. After repairing a broken wire on the rear right passenger door, which I thought was going to fix the issue, it didn't. I decided to look up issues with this same problem. The only thing that came up was the TIPM. Is there another way to actually double check it? Please let me know.
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Claus
Having done this a million times, I'd say, you'd make your life a lot easier if you add a whole lot of new solder to it, before you take if off. You need the new solder to be the one with flux in it. (The one that goes smoky smoky. And this PCB have more then one layer, so be sure not just to be concerned about the getting if free from the bottom layer. (The one you see)
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Having done this a million times, I'd say, you'd make your life a lot easier if you add a whole lot of new solder to it, before you take if off. You need the new solder to be the one with flux in it. (The one that goes smoky smoky. And this PCB have more then one layer, so be sure not just to be concerned about the getting if free from the bottom layer. (The one you see)
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Kevin
The TIPM seems like a perfect example of planned obsolescence. To think that given Chrysler/FCA's track record, that TIPM will be discontinued soon (if it isn't already) and no longer available to purchase new, which will mean that all sorts of electronics people will start to pop up and offer to rebuild them (they probably already do) for hundreds of
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The TIPM seems like a perfect example of planned obsolescence. To think that given Chrysler/FCA's track record, that TIPM will be discontinued soon (if it isn't already) and no longer available to purchase new, which will mean that all sorts of electronics people will start to pop up and offer to rebuild them (they probably already do) for hundreds of
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treborg777
Just saw this for the first time. You did an excellent job positioning the camera thru this episode to include us in your work/struggle. I was starting to talk to the video while you were struggling with the solder wick, get to the solder sucker. It's worked much better for me than solder wick.
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Just saw this for the first time. You did an excellent job positioning the camera thru this episode to include us in your work/struggle. I was starting to talk to the video while you were struggling with the solder wick, get to the solder sucker. It's worked much better for me than solder wick.
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Minimalistic
The desoldering wick works better if you put flux on it, the solder will flow into it much easier. I had the joy or taking apart the climate control in my 2008 Town and Country to replace the 3 bulbs, they use LEDs except for the fan speed and button back lighting.
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The desoldering wick works better if you put flux on it, the solder will flow into it much easier. I had the joy or taking apart the climate control in my 2008 Town and Country to replace the 3 bulbs, they use LEDs except for the fan speed and button back lighting.
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ATGRULZ
You are EFFING AWESOME! This video made me laugh a few times i love the magic sharpie! But thank you so much for helping to explain to my roommate what I am about to do to his tipm fyi a little flux will help bring that solder out a lot quicker for future reference
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You are EFFING AWESOME! This video made me laugh a few times i love the magic sharpie! But thank you so much for helping to explain to my roommate what I am about to do to his tipm fyi a little flux will help bring that solder out a lot quicker for future reference
reply
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