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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » Scotty Kilmer
5 Secrets to Buying a Cheap Used Car

5 Secrets to Buying a Cheap Used Car

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
5 Secrets to Buying a Cheap Used Car dusanmal: Question for future show: Setup is 2013 Nissan Pathfinder with almost 60000mi, I typically keep cars to 200000mi and this Nissan despite poor Kilmer grade performs flawlessly (only issues were cosmetic/trim so far) on par with Subarus I had in past, only behind Honda. So, I expect to keep it long term. I am in NorthEast where in these recent years we had kind of alteration between SnowArmageddonYear/MildWinterYear. I also live in hilly part, my own street being close to 14% grade. Hence, this mild year I thought of preparing for future bad years. I am thinking of getting a second set of wheels and snow tires. While I keep maintenance spot-on or better, I am not car-neatnick. Scratches and imperfections are just fine as long as they dont lead to major issues. Economy of the solution is also important. Now to the question itself: I found in local scrapyard 4 used wheels from 2014 model, identically looking as mine. Question for the expert Kilmer is pricing, negotiating and most importantly condition. They are priced at the very low end compared to Internet search of scrapyards in wider area-45 per wheel. Condition apparent to me are scratches. On three of them condition is on par or better than my own wheels, regular everyday damage. Fourth looks structurally OK but there are huge mars on it (likely where accident that brought them to the scrapyard have happened). So, do you advise getting scrapyard wheels for such purpose? Is this price normal or does it raise questions? Is there a room for negotiation even further down (I know that it is between me and seller, but is there rationally more to cut? Finally and most importantly, what an amateur should look for in scrapyard wheels not to be bamboozled with serious yet not immediately apparent damage that would make those wheels not only waste of money but a danger? Thanks for the great program
Date: 2019-05-28

Comments and reviews: 9


The #1 secret: Buy those meticulously maintained cars that your well-off trusted friends or parents like to trade-in to the dealers (for next to nothing) every 3-4 years. Maybe you have them. friends and parents who buy new and are O. K. with their vehicles losing 25-30% of their value as soon as they drive off the lot. Then they repeat the cycle in a few years by giving their used vehicles back to the dealer. INTERVENE and tell them the next time they are ready to trade in their vehicle, they should call you first. Save up a little money each month, so that when the time comes you can pay them cash for their used car. Offer them slightly more than what the stealership would give them. Theyll be happy. Youll be happy. If the car is complete crp, a trusted friend or parent will refuse to sell it to you. If you dont have trusted friends or parents. then I feel for you
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In about 1992, I bought an 84 Chevy Citation. They were cheap because they were orphans. I did a little research on them, and the 84 and 85 fuel injected engines were the most trouble free. The TH125 automatic was the most trouble free auto trans available in those. My car had the 2. 5L fuel injected engine and the TH 125 trans. Drove it until about 2014. It would not pass California smog testing, and I thought that it could be long and involved as it may have been a wiring problem. I paid 750 for it, and sold it to the state for 1500, under a vehicle retirement program. All the years we drove it, it was the right age for parts at a pull your own parts wrecking yard, and new parts were cheap and plentiful. ie: 35 for a new power brake booster from Rockauto.
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If the seller has the tank on E, then its better just to walk away. Thats either a tightwad person trying to save a buck, a scammer trying to avoid test drives revealing issues, or a forgetful person that didnt think about gassing the car for test drives. All three of those types of folks are doom for a car. tightwad is too cheap to foot bill on maintenance / repairs, scammer is trying to screw you over, and forgetful person often neglects their vehicle (eg: hasnt changed oil or done other maintenance, which can lead to big issues. Its just a huge red flag. If I have to go out and pop my own money to test drive the car, then Im walking away from the start.
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Recap: - Check the body and car frame for integrity and no rust rotting- Make sure parts will be available and wont cost a fortune- Check coolant for lack or rust- Take a good road test (highway and local) check heating up- Engine, transmission and suspension are the most important items- Make sure car isnt out of alignment, if it is might have been wrecked and rebuilt- Make sure Title is legit and theres nothing wrong, is not a Salvage and has no liens- Check tires and make sure theyre good- Make sure the car is insured even when going for a road test
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I totally wholeheartedly agree with Toyota I had a 1994 Toyota Celica automatic 2 door not the hatchback it had a hundred and sixty four thousand miles on it it have been sitting for almost 2 years I bought it from somebody the day we put the battery same battery in that had been in the car when he bought it it instantly started it ran like a champ not a single issue with it I open till I has forced to sell it due to someone hitting it the motor in the tranny went to another buddy of mine who to this day still going strong
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sir, I have recently bought a 2008 Chevy Lumina LTZ/Holden Commodore VE (Alloytec 3. 6 V6) with 246, 000km (11 year old car) the only thing Ive experienced is a check engine led indicator that comes & goes, sometimes misfires but after restart the engine it works fine. What is your best advice to help fix misfiring? Already replaced the spark plugs, and undergone tune-up. as well. Do you think this car is reliable? & durable? I would very much appreciate a reply. Thanks very much. (Im a Filipino from Saudi Arabia): -)
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Scotty, you forgot one major thing when it comes to state inspections, the good old boy system. I live in Virginia which has state inspections, and I purchased a 98 Camry for 700 off a friend that had a valid inspection, took it in to get inspected and it failed miserably for thingsthat had been wrong for years, what they had been doingis paying 50 to ashadyrepair shop and just getting the inspection stickers.
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SCOTTY LOVE WATCHIN U. I LEARN SO MUCH THKS FOR GIFTING US W/UR LOVE FOR CARS. I HAVE A 2015 GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO. POWER STEERING WENT OUT A NTW WAS IN THE AREA I LOST POWER. THEY SAID EVERYTHING CHECKED OUT I HAD FLUID ETC. HAD TO BE ELECTRICAL. THEY DIDNT DO THESE REPAIRS. MY QUESTION IS ARE THESE AN EXSPENSIVE REPAIR? IMSINGLE MOM BUT U KNOW WE NEED OUR HORSES O GET TO WORK. THKS SCOTTY
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YES Im shopping for a used car now, and this is super helpfulI only wish that sellers would take a girl seriously when she asks important questions about the car. I ask, and they look at me like either Im nuts, or usually just try to talk their way around and over the answers. Shady Wish I had a mechanic like you in my family to go with me. Would make process soooo much easier Thanks much Scotty
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