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5 Proven Ways to Get Better Gas Mileage in Your Car

5 Proven Ways to Get Better Gas Mileage in Your Car

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5 Proven Ways to Get Better Gas Mileage in Your Car Voz Mak: To save on gas: - take any unnecessary things out of your car to reduce weight- remove any unnecessary roof racks, crossbars, rooftop cargo carriers, etc, to reduce drag- dont speed toward red lights, stop signs, and turns - if possible, coast to them- dont accelerate too hard- avoid tailgating - this will give you time to anticipate to not brake hard if the car in front of you is braking- dont run late to time-sensitive destinations - this will allow you to drive more calmly, and not speed- consolidate errands and appointments to minimize the number of trips that require you to rewarm up your engine- try to crawl in a traffic jam to minimize constant accelerating and braking- avoid rush hour if possible- avoid driving in rain and snow if possible - this will subject your car to more rolling resistance- take the highway instead of city roads- if must stay cool, its generally best to use a/c on a highway, and open windows in a city- dont exceed 55-60mph if possible (optimal economical speed is 45-55mph)- use cruize control at highway speed, preferably on roads lacking hills- avoid stopping on inclines to avoid accelerating up a hill from a stop- accelerate as you approach a hill so that you are up to a higher speed when climbing the hill- attempt to stop higher up on a hill rather than the bottom (if at a red light for instance) use gravity to help get you going again- maintain proper tire pressure (colder temperaturesdecrease psi) make sure you test psi first thing in the morning before driving when its coldest. Check tire pressure more often when temperatures change drastically - adjust as necessary. - avoid excessively idling- keep up on transmission maintenance(Scotty) air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, clean fuel injectors, clean throttle body & MAF sensorThere are way more things you can do to save on fuel, but I figured this list is long enough.
Date: 2019-05-28

Comments and reviews: 9


In the 80s Mobil 1 came out and they were selling it as you can increase gas mileage like 25 - 30% I think. I changed to Mobil 1 and about a month later I went to start the car, it would start but is sounded like a cement mixer and was turning over real slow, I checked the oil and it was like melted tar. I had car towed to garage they pulled the oil pan and it looked like thick goo dropping out in globs so I had the engine rebuilt because the mechanic said it would cost more to clean out engine than to rebuild. I saved parts and contacted Mobile oil which was easy because I was there computer engineer in NYC. I told one of the people that was an engineer there and they would look into it. I called several time over the next several months they requested a different tech and that was that no return calls nothing so I bit the bullet. Several months later car was stolen and thats the end of that. I now have a 2001 Honda CR-V for 2 years and love it. My last car was a 1996 Chevy Corsica and traded for the CR-V had that car from 2004 to 2016 with 185, 000 mi. Yes change oil every 3-4K mi and every 3 months I would dump fuel injector cleaner from the store never had any problems except the A/C compressor was its achilles heel. I had to change it out 2Xs and thats the only reason I got rid of it. A rebuild Compressor was now 650 for the part and would have to change in few years(my wife has MS and she HAS to have A/C in the summer.
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My ex drove over a large rock on an unimproved road in a nearly new Ford Escort that I had bought for her in 1992. The car had an aluminum oil pan that got punctured by the impact with the rock and so all the oil leaked out and she drove the car for the better part of the day doing errands and stuff. When she got home she informed me of this annoying little orange light on the dash that wouldnt go out. Knowing that it meant that she either had no oil pressure or was overheating the engine I checked it out and discovered the worst. The bearings, rings and cam lobes were shot and so I filled it with heavy weight oil and STP and so it was time for a trip to the dealer for a new car.
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Here in my country, they import a lot of US cars (US spec) that were involved in accidents. they get fixed and sold about the same price as the same used car that has GCC specs. Why are they sold at the same price? because they claim US imports have more facilities in them. while that may be true, but who cares about options when the car was in a serious wreck and already the color where the collision happened isnt matching with the rest of the car they arent cheap too. Most german cars sold here are proven to be reliable (Exception of VW and Audi; after 80k serious and costly repairs are needed. US imported german cars? absolutely not
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Hello Scotty, On the question concerning the 73 Super Beetle that is stuck in gear, it may not be the transmission. It may be the Bowden Tube. That is the tube in which the clutch cable runs thru. If it breaks off from the VWs pan, it will not let the clutch disengage the transmission and getting the car in or out of a gear is very difficult. It just needs to be brazed back onto the pan and it will fix the problem. I have the one on my 67 Ghia break loose from the pan and it would not move or shift out of the gear. It took a while to get it into neutral so I could tow it. Had the Bowden Tube rebrazed and it fixed the problem.
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Uh oh, Scotty your making wonder about you, reason being, is because Amsoil has been proven by the manufacture of every car/truck/heavy equipment/engine manufacturer in the world. by the manufacturer themselves, NOT AMSOIL(FACT)Ive been running Amsoil in my Nissan truck for 25, 000 miles, Ive had a independent oil analysis done by Oil Analysis Inc, they have said the oil was still good at 25, 000 miles, but for my own piece of mind, I flushed it out with Amsoil flush, new Amsoil oil filter(glass cellulose blend media in AMSOIL oil filters not paper like everybody else s)and put in 6 quarts of Amsoil OW-30 weight oil.
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Scottys advice on Audi is one thousand percent spot-on I had an Audi 2002 A-6 with 2. 7 Bi-Turbo, 6 speed standard shift. I loved the car. It was the best car I ever drove, until it was out of warranty. To say it was a money pit is an understatement. I maintained my car to the teeth as the expression goes. There was: Flywheel failure. Bi-turbo failure. Heater core failure. Radiator failure. Ignition/Timing issues and failures that were nonstop. Plastic switches in the interior that failed/broke. If you want an Audi, perhaps lease it, get it out of your system, then buy a more simple, quality car.
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The Germans know how to build cars that last when the engineers have control. My own Porsche 928 S4 has 218K miles on it and other owners commonly have over 300K without major issues. You just need to keep up with maintenance and replacing all the soft rubber hoses after 30+ years. You wouldnt risk an engine fire from an old fuel line would you? When the bean counters have control you end up with cost cutting like BMW and Mercedes are now known for leading to unreliability in the long run. I just wish engineers could build cars the way they want to without cost being the main driving force.
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Ummm Scotty You cant get to the VW shift rod from under the car Its it the tunnel inside the car and the problem is the hockey stick is probably jammed up inside the nose cone of the transmission The Engine & transmission needs to be pulled to repair it also while Im there I would replace the shift rod bushings and make sure the shift rod isnt bent from cramming it into gear the length of the shift rod is critical and they bend over the years of hard shifts Hope this helps the VW crowd Been restoring VWs since 1986The shift Rod comes out the front it has a little cover with two bolts
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Ive noticed that driving in one adjacent major city, next to the city I live in, I get worse mileage in that city than the city I live in. The traffic is almost the same, a little more traffic congestion during rush hour in that other city and a bit more population condensed. What could be affecting my mileage negatively? The constant street light control of traffic? There are more hills in that bad mileage city, so I wonder if that also plays into the bad mileage I get. Maybe even the way the city is planned, something is affecting my bad mileage in that other city.
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