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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » Scotty Kilmer
The Truth About the New Chevy Blazer

The Truth About the New Chevy Blazer

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
The Truth About the New Chevy Blazer trianggaindra lukmana: my previous 2000 chevy blazer is pile of junk. the 2. 2 liter engine (asian market) has no power, the engine break down at 60. 000 miles, need change ring pistons, they drink oil alot, overheat is common problem, their ac is prone to fail. the bearing clutch transmission doesnt last long and has quirk sounds, every things is disaster except the manual tranny build by ZF is pretty reliable and the suspension is very tough even with bad roads. many people get rid of it and no resale value
Date: 2019-06-23

Comments and reviews: 9


1988 S10 Blazer, two door, white, tinted factory windows, first car through college, work, I put that thing through so much, it kept going, it often surprised me how resilient it was. Going through three BMWs, one being a MINI-pit, I actually sometimes LONG for my Blazer. I could fix it, over fill it with oil filling the sky with smoke, over heat it who knows how many times, run out of gas with it, over and over again, never changed the fuel pump, and when I would get out and rock it back and forth it would turn on, and take me to the gas station, run it on only one shock absorber after I pulled the bad one out from underneath like it gave birth or something, front end crashed it, twice, fan broke-fell off, went to AutoZone, they had a radiator FAN I installed it right there with loaner tools, 30 bucks max, went home after overheating it, no coolant, only water, put it in reverse on the freeway by mistake, don't ask 500 used transmission installed, kept going. when I finally sold it about 10 years ago, it was still running strong, engine like a clock. Honestly sometimes I feel like I should of kept it, and finding another late 80s Blazer is something I consider here and there, and I do look for the Xtremes alongside the 5th and 6th gen Celicas on Craigs. Would I buy a NEW Blazer today? NO.
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S-Series Saturns came with the 1, 000, 000 mile automatic transmissions. I have 2 gen 1 S-Series Saturns with over 2000, 000 each. The transmissions are great. but sometimes the valve bodies can need replacing. They are on top and easy to do. The part costs around 250. 00 or a trans shop will do the whole job for around 650. 00. If the trans slips in gear the trans is shot, which I haven't seen. but if the trans bumps into second and then locks up just fine, all you need is a new valve body, no big deal. NOTE: S-Series Saturns come with factory coolent seal added to the antifreeze You can get it from any GM dealer. It comes in pellet form. If you change the coolant without replacing the pellets, you will usually blow the head gaskets. Saturn only designed one drivetrain. the S-series, all of the other/newer Saturns are build by or with parts from other GM divisions. Avoid any Saturns with CVT's and cross reference any non S-Series to find out what they really are, some are Opels and some are who knows what. Some better some worse, but they aren't real Saturns.
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All this hate on GM/Chrysler just makes me want to buy them even more. Besides, get over yourselves. How many people before yourselves have said this brand (or vehicle) so and so doesn't meet 'my expectations'? It's ugly Why didn't they bring back the 1970s cars? They're not coming back. This Blazer's here to stay. Besides, I don't trust Toyota either. :30 Toyota's build quality isn't that great either, nor are they anymore reliable. This ain't the 90's. Wait until they're 3 or 4 years old and see how they've held up, because I wouldn't trust anything new that anyone makes. Good quote. That includes Toyota, right? Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.
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A note on ethanol. I noticed that a tiny sticker on the gas pump read 10 percent ethanol. That's grain alcohol. They raised the price of gasoline and then started adding an ingredient which, as 10%, lowers the power output of the fuel by 8 percent. Grain alcohol is chemically partially oxidized and that's why the alky burners of the drag racing circuit in the 1950s, had to run over-sized jets in the carburetors. Moreover, what used to be tractor fuel 94 octane in the 1950s, is now super premium today. The real leadfoot of my generation had the choice of 102 octane. That's progress.
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Hey Scotty, not a car related question but I hope you still answer. You ever gone out shooting, anything? Targets? Hunting? Random (safe) backyard shooting? I ask because you live in Texas and are clearly not left wing (if you are, than I guess I've misjudged you, which basically the recipe for a gun owner/shooter. Edit: another non car related question, but; you talk up Japan so much, I've been wondering, have you ever been to Japan? I realize you talk up Japan because of the general superior quality of the products they make, still, have you ever been to Japan?
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Timing belts will whine if they are too tight. I know because I did this myself in my Miata. The belt wasn't so tight you could pluck it like a string but it was just a little snug and that was enough to make whine. It has a spring loaded pre-tensioner idler that you lock in place after the belt is on and I thought it wasn't strong enough but that was all that was needed. They only need to be tight enough to get rid of any slack in reality because there is very little stretch. The second time I replaced the timing belt I did it right and no whine.
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Had a '98 Blazer for a company car and it was an absolute piece of crap1. No one could ever get it to align right and it would always pull to the right. 2. Both front seat recline levers broke off3. Cheap tailgate bent and rear window would not close securely. 4. Lousy handling, uncomfortable seats, and very hot in summer. 5. Hood got stuck closed. This was due to poor design of top shroud, and ended up busting off pieces of plastic to solve problem.
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Hey scotty My wife has a 2010 corolla with 140, 000 miles. When she went to do the oil change at Wal Mart the guy recommended shed get synthetic. I wasnt there so i couldnt put my 2cents in. Well the car has been running fine but i know u say its best to use what the factory recommends. Can i switch back to the factory recommended or should i just stay synthetic? Thanks scott
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Scotty, my girlfriend's 2002 Celica has an air conditioning problem. The AC light flashes and the compressor freezes up and shuts the car off. if you try to accelerate to keep the car on the compressor just gives up and turns off. I tried adding refrigerant with the AC pro kit, but the needle stays in the red zone. Is there anything I can do shy of replacing the AC compressor?
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