Every Home needs this Upgrade! (Ceiling Speaker)
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Date: 2025-02-11
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Comments and reviews: 20
kote315
Great idea, but.
1. I don't believe you can hear the difference between the amplifiers with such a speaker. The speaker itself has a THD several times higher than the amplifier. So there was no point in making such a complex amplifier (unless you like the process.
2. As far as I understand, you are using a fixed voltage bias. This is not the best solution, since the parameters of your amplifier will change greatly with temperature.
3. Do you really need a capacitor at the output of the amplifier You have split power supply. The output should have zero DC offset, so you probably don't need a capacitor. Adding capacitors to the incoming DC power would make more sense. For better filtering and to smooth out the drop in the wires a bit during short-term high power pulses (aka bass. This would help to get a lower cutoff frequency and better damping of the speaker. I don't think this is very important for shower music, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
4. I don't trust switching power supplies in these conditions. but if you have a GFCI, perhaps this is fine. But still, I would prefer a good old iron transformer for maximum safety.
By the way, if you need to connect a Bluetooth module from the same power source as the amplifier, try using dual chokes from the input circuits of switching power supplies as filters. With a couple of capacitors (at the input and at the output, this greatly reduces interference. And it is cheaper than an isolated DC-DC converter.
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Great idea, but.
1. I don't believe you can hear the difference between the amplifiers with such a speaker. The speaker itself has a THD several times higher than the amplifier. So there was no point in making such a complex amplifier (unless you like the process.
2. As far as I understand, you are using a fixed voltage bias. This is not the best solution, since the parameters of your amplifier will change greatly with temperature.
3. Do you really need a capacitor at the output of the amplifier You have split power supply. The output should have zero DC offset, so you probably don't need a capacitor. Adding capacitors to the incoming DC power would make more sense. For better filtering and to smooth out the drop in the wires a bit during short-term high power pulses (aka bass. This would help to get a lower cutoff frequency and better damping of the speaker. I don't think this is very important for shower music, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
4. I don't trust switching power supplies in these conditions. but if you have a GFCI, perhaps this is fine. But still, I would prefer a good old iron transformer for maximum safety.
By the way, if you need to connect a Bluetooth module from the same power source as the amplifier, try using dual chokes from the input circuits of switching power supplies as filters. With a couple of capacitors (at the input and at the output, this greatly reduces interference. And it is cheaper than an isolated DC-DC converter.
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greatscott
Great production value again, this 12 minute video passed by too fast: )
The only major problem I see with it is at 09: 01, where you showed the schematic. The feedback for the opamp should be taken right from the output of the class AB amplifier, so that the opamp will compensate for any non-linearities from the biasing and transistors. Using a 0, 0. 01% THD opamp is useless if the circuit design and surrounding passive components do not take advantage of it! Using a LM358 with a class AB amp made out of BD441/439, but with the feedback taken right at the output, could have netted you the same results (if not better) at a much lower price. The output of the opamp would have been connected straight to the junction of the two diodes, with the resistors calculated as to not exceed the sink/source current of the LM358. This is not to diminish your work! I hope that it helps you
Still love your vids on the arduino/embedded side tho =)
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Great production value again, this 12 minute video passed by too fast: )
The only major problem I see with it is at 09: 01, where you showed the schematic. The feedback for the opamp should be taken right from the output of the class AB amplifier, so that the opamp will compensate for any non-linearities from the biasing and transistors. Using a 0, 0. 01% THD opamp is useless if the circuit design and surrounding passive components do not take advantage of it! Using a LM358 with a class AB amp made out of BD441/439, but with the feedback taken right at the output, could have netted you the same results (if not better) at a much lower price. The output of the opamp would have been connected straight to the junction of the two diodes, with the resistors calculated as to not exceed the sink/source current of the LM358. This is not to diminish your work! I hope that it helps you
Still love your vids on the arduino/embedded side tho =)
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PowerScissor
As someone in my 60's and being a DIY'er my whole life. I've learned this lesson.
I no longer permanently install things in the wall, ceiling, etc. Technology moves SO fast, and eventually you have a bunch of stuff in the walls thats WAY outdated.
Yeah, I have a whole house intercom system (NOT wireless, that plays music if its on cassette tape lol) all through the back yard even. Now every room has a giant useless intercom and speaker in each room.
In wall vacuum system that was super fancy at one time, but now every wall has pipes in it and you can buy a better vacuum for $129 at any store.
Specialized lighting and switches custom built into walls. and now LEDs and better switches, etc make it obsolete.
Wired security system with wires in the walls, again not used.
Just always assume one day you will want to remove anything you install in a house eventually.
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As someone in my 60's and being a DIY'er my whole life. I've learned this lesson.
I no longer permanently install things in the wall, ceiling, etc. Technology moves SO fast, and eventually you have a bunch of stuff in the walls thats WAY outdated.
Yeah, I have a whole house intercom system (NOT wireless, that plays music if its on cassette tape lol) all through the back yard even. Now every room has a giant useless intercom and speaker in each room.
In wall vacuum system that was super fancy at one time, but now every wall has pipes in it and you can buy a better vacuum for $129 at any store.
Specialized lighting and switches custom built into walls. and now LEDs and better switches, etc make it obsolete.
Wired security system with wires in the walls, again not used.
Just always assume one day you will want to remove anything you install in a house eventually.
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DrRChandra
I just caution people to check their local codes, and why Scott says it should only be done by professionals. It's quite possible concealed junction boxes like that are illegal. I am by no means a code expert, but to my knowledge, those would be prohibited by NEC 314. 29, in which national refers to the US. The AHJ is often the state, which many times incorporates the NEC by reference (as where I live, New York does if I'm not mistaken; not sure if Erie County or Cheektowaga has any additional modifications, but I don't think so. Might be just fine for Germany, not sure. Not a question to me if it'll work or if it's safe, just illegal for some reason. I'm sure the NFPA has their reasons for thinking it's unsafe, again the N referring to national, referring to the US.
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I just caution people to check their local codes, and why Scott says it should only be done by professionals. It's quite possible concealed junction boxes like that are illegal. I am by no means a code expert, but to my knowledge, those would be prohibited by NEC 314. 29, in which national refers to the US. The AHJ is often the state, which many times incorporates the NEC by reference (as where I live, New York does if I'm not mistaken; not sure if Erie County or Cheektowaga has any additional modifications, but I don't think so. Might be just fine for Germany, not sure. Not a question to me if it'll work or if it's safe, just illegal for some reason. I'm sure the NFPA has their reasons for thinking it's unsafe, again the N referring to national, referring to the US.
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tarunarya1780
One thing that I wish you would do would be to help us with the infinite kit which die due to the lithium batteries dying and being expensive to replace. Please explain the the batteries and bms, and possible addition of a power cable with bms to the dc supply so to keep it working when needed. With my TomTom it would stop working presumably because of the power needed for the startup of the satellite chip, similarly I have gsm burglar alarms and projects involving sim800 which have failed possibly due to adequate power without a battery. I think this is a good topic many people would be interested in. Also the battery monitoring protection wire/thermistor adjustment if necessary
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One thing that I wish you would do would be to help us with the infinite kit which die due to the lithium batteries dying and being expensive to replace. Please explain the the batteries and bms, and possible addition of a power cable with bms to the dc supply so to keep it working when needed. With my TomTom it would stop working presumably because of the power needed for the startup of the satellite chip, similarly I have gsm burglar alarms and projects involving sim800 which have failed possibly due to adequate power without a battery. I think this is a good topic many people would be interested in. Also the battery monitoring protection wire/thermistor adjustment if necessary
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ivolol
In your original design, you allowed the opamp to contribute a small amount to the output, through the 100R resistor. It also takes its feedback directly from the output point, which allows it to completely control the waveform at that point. I'm somewhat confused why you removed that feature in the new design, and left the new AB design to freewheel its amplification. If you designed similar feedback into the new design, the 4562 could have had complete control over the waveform, and also completely knock out any crossover distortion.
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In your original design, you allowed the opamp to contribute a small amount to the output, through the 100R resistor. It also takes its feedback directly from the output point, which allows it to completely control the waveform at that point. I'm somewhat confused why you removed that feature in the new design, and left the new AB design to freewheel its amplification. If you designed similar feedback into the new design, the 4562 could have had complete control over the waveform, and also completely knock out any crossover distortion.
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CrispyCircuits
About the noise over the Bluetooth. I have a program to learn Morse code. Previously, it failed to produce the first dit (short beep) over Bluetooth. The author added a very tiny to large noise setting to fix that Bluetooth problem and make a more real world sounding background noise level. I just tested it and it works great. Could the lack of a signal with information (preferably not audible) help with this Did you manage to figure out what is causing the noise Nice project.
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About the noise over the Bluetooth. I have a program to learn Morse code. Previously, it failed to produce the first dit (short beep) over Bluetooth. The author added a very tiny to large noise setting to fix that Bluetooth problem and make a more real world sounding background noise level. I just tested it and it works great. Could the lack of a signal with information (preferably not audible) help with this Did you manage to figure out what is causing the noise Nice project.
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MatSmithLondon
Can someone please explain to me more carefully why it couldn't work off GND / 12V, and why he needed to use two 12V power supplies I understand voltage bias I just don't understand why the transistor knows the difference between two circuits powered from different biases. Also, why did he get two power 12V supplies instead of just splitting a single 24V power supply I'm sure the answer is obvious but I don't quite understand. Thanks
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Can someone please explain to me more carefully why it couldn't work off GND / 12V, and why he needed to use two 12V power supplies I understand voltage bias I just don't understand why the transistor knows the difference between two circuits powered from different biases. Also, why did he get two power 12V supplies instead of just splitting a single 24V power supply I'm sure the answer is obvious but I don't quite understand. Thanks
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stevenA44
I have a few of those JBL speakers, older ones actually, but they are really good speakers. I carry one at work with me. I had switched from one of those to using my Alexa Dot to listen to music in the bathroom. Last week I bought a Soundcore speaker made by Anker and now use it all over the house. It's 120 watts and has awesome bass on it. I just sit it at the door to the bathroom when I take a shower. Good project you made though.
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I have a few of those JBL speakers, older ones actually, but they are really good speakers. I carry one at work with me. I had switched from one of those to using my Alexa Dot to listen to music in the bathroom. Last week I bought a Soundcore speaker made by Anker and now use it all over the house. It's 120 watts and has awesome bass on it. I just sit it at the door to the bathroom when I take a shower. Good project you made though.
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Tarodenaro
8: 20 make sure you bought this from a respectable seller, this peculiar LM4562 chip has A TONS OF COUNTERFEIT in marketplace, so be mindful when buying them. Also, you can search Speaker Protection module in case you need extra protection or you are considering OCL (Output Capacitor Less) coupling.
.
Again, normally you would use 100V Line Audio with Line Transformer for these kind application, but where's the fun in that lol.
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8: 20 make sure you bought this from a respectable seller, this peculiar LM4562 chip has A TONS OF COUNTERFEIT in marketplace, so be mindful when buying them. Also, you can search Speaker Protection module in case you need extra protection or you are considering OCL (Output Capacitor Less) coupling.
.
Again, normally you would use 100V Line Audio with Line Transformer for these kind application, but where's the fun in that lol.
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rkalle66
Last year I removed the electronic components on my old JBL active loudspeakers with proprietary radio signal transmision by an integrated class D amplifier (based on TPA3116 chip) with BT input. By using the old power supply I was ending up with the same digital amp output power.
The only annoying part is the chineese BT voice when connecting. But my defective old pair of loudspeakers are now playing better than before.
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Last year I removed the electronic components on my old JBL active loudspeakers with proprietary radio signal transmision by an integrated class D amplifier (based on TPA3116 chip) with BT input. By using the old power supply I was ending up with the same digital amp output power.
The only annoying part is the chineese BT voice when connecting. But my defective old pair of loudspeakers are now playing better than before.
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HadrienDorfman
This csr bt chip has a pretty powerful SDK. You can program them in many many ways, one of them is a real dsp (kalimba if I recall right) this allows you to compensate always-present sound glitch, probably very present in a bathroom: ) and also to refine connection tones, behvior names. Etc. because these chips are presents in a lot of embedded audio devices like autoradio and headphones: ) very cool video mr scott!
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This csr bt chip has a pretty powerful SDK. You can program them in many many ways, one of them is a real dsp (kalimba if I recall right) this allows you to compensate always-present sound glitch, probably very present in a bathroom: ) and also to refine connection tones, behvior names. Etc. because these chips are presents in a lot of embedded audio devices like autoradio and headphones: ) very cool video mr scott!
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cURLybOi
i was solving this exact same problem for my scooter audio - needed waterproof, fairly loud, 12v powered music system. i bought similar speakers from visaton (i think german brand) - pair of fr8wp. and aliexpress already solds 12v powered bluetooth amps that are well noise-isolated. so there is no ground loops or high-frequency noise being amplified between the bt and the amp stage
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i was solving this exact same problem for my scooter audio - needed waterproof, fairly loud, 12v powered music system. i bought similar speakers from visaton (i think german brand) - pair of fr8wp. and aliexpress already solds 12v powered bluetooth amps that are well noise-isolated. so there is no ground loops or high-frequency noise being amplified between the bt and the amp stage
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qwaqwa1960
Re your new amp: 1) You don't really need those big coupling caps any longer. 2) Why not take feedback from the output like you did before 3) The better op-amp is wasted here, tho probably runs cooler at least. 4) You need L & R input resistors, cuz as it is, you're essentially shorting those two signals together. 5) Power filtering would likely solve your noise issue.
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Re your new amp: 1) You don't really need those big coupling caps any longer. 2) Why not take feedback from the output like you did before 3) The better op-amp is wasted here, tho probably runs cooler at least. 4) You need L & R input resistors, cuz as it is, you're essentially shorting those two signals together. 5) Power filtering would likely solve your noise issue.
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raresvintea1
Hahaha long time when renovating my old apartment i get audio out from my 5. 1, later discovered that it is easier to get power to the ceiling and put there a module dedicated with amp and BT that sounded very good. It was one selling point of apartment in the end. Now i don't have false ceilings and i need to be creative on how i install a speaker.
Good memories
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Hahaha long time when renovating my old apartment i get audio out from my 5. 1, later discovered that it is easier to get power to the ceiling and put there a module dedicated with amp and BT that sounded very good. It was one selling point of apartment in the end. Now i don't have false ceilings and i need to be creative on how i install a speaker.
Good memories
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MickeyMishra
I install these commercially. But I have to say, I don't really bother to do the same thing in a home setting.
It would be a fun project in a commercial setting, but a residential bathroom Not my cup of tea.
Once you get home you just want to relax, so I'd rather do something like a Bathroom waterfall as I have seen in some of those uber fancy magazines.
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I install these commercially. But I have to say, I don't really bother to do the same thing in a home setting.
It would be a fun project in a commercial setting, but a residential bathroom Not my cup of tea.
Once you get home you just want to relax, so I'd rather do something like a Bathroom waterfall as I have seen in some of those uber fancy magazines.
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greatscott
Per National and Canadian Electrical Codes governing North America:
- The device that connects to the mains must be uL listed
- There needs to be a box to terminate the AC power cable
- Wires must be stapled, boxes mounted
- Given this is a shower, it needs to be damp location rated
Is there no electrical code in Europe
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Per National and Canadian Electrical Codes governing North America:
- The device that connects to the mains must be uL listed
- There needs to be a box to terminate the AC power cable
- Wires must be stapled, boxes mounted
- Given this is a shower, it needs to be damp location rated
Is there no electrical code in Europe
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PexiTheBuilder
Again these clickbaits, overengineering most simple things. Build/obtain box, install lawmower/moped 12v battery, install car stereo and speakers, enjoy music anywhere.
Bipolar power supply from 2 PSUs Why not just using 2x 9V batteries, if it's too hard to handle AC. Luckily not engineer, only technician.
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Again these clickbaits, overengineering most simple things. Build/obtain box, install lawmower/moped 12v battery, install car stereo and speakers, enjoy music anywhere.
Bipolar power supply from 2 PSUs Why not just using 2x 9V batteries, if it's too hard to handle AC. Luckily not engineer, only technician.
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Scrogan
Nice work! I’d consider a Vbe multiplier instead of two static diodes, maybe a sziklai pair for more current gain so the op-amp isn’t driven as hard. I think you should be able to remove that big bypass cap in series with the speaker, though maybe you’d want to add a trimpot to adjust DC bias if you do that.
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Nice work! I’d consider a Vbe multiplier instead of two static diodes, maybe a sziklai pair for more current gain so the op-amp isn’t driven as hard. I think you should be able to remove that big bypass cap in series with the speaker, though maybe you’d want to add a trimpot to adjust DC bias if you do that.
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TrFusion
It’s been six years since you uploaded the video VESC (Best Open Source ESC) || DIY or Buy, but I recently checked the PCB data from VESC and noticed a layout error. The 5-pin USB pad for the USB connector is mirrored from the correct orientation. Because of this, it’s impossible to connect to the VESC tool.
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It’s been six years since you uploaded the video VESC (Best Open Source ESC) || DIY or Buy, but I recently checked the PCB data from VESC and noticed a layout error. The 5-pin USB pad for the USB connector is mirrored from the correct orientation. Because of this, it’s impossible to connect to the VESC tool.
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