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zakruti.com » Travels » Traveling around the world
Grand Teton // Climbing the Full Exum - Mountain trips

Grand Teton // Climbing the Full Exum - Mountain trips

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
After climbing the Owen Spalding route with Aaron and Blake I returned a short time later to climb The Grand Teton a different way. I do not rock climb but fortunately Chase does. So I invited him along on the pretense that he would do everything. He planned the route, brought all the trad gear, lead every pitch and double checked my stuff so I didnt kill myself. However, the one thing he didnt do was tell my I had something in my teeth. We start on the Lower Exum climbing a handful of cold pitches including the Black Face pitch which I was very grateful I didnt have to lead. After that its Wall Street and the upper pitches of the Exum route including the Golden Staircase and the Friction Pitch. All in all it was a great day and place to be introduced to Trad climbing something Ive wanted to dip my toe into. Climbing the Full Exum with Chase made me realize that Ill probably have to start my climbing career at a much more accessible level
Date: 2023-01-17

Comments and reviews: 20


Glen Exum was working as a musician on a dude ranch back during the Great Depression when he made the first ascent wearing cowboy boots. That was the beginning of Exum becoming one of the most legendary climbing guides in the Tetons. I climbed the route in early June all the way from Lupine Meadows in the traditional big leather climbing boots of yesteryear. Much of it was still covered in snow and ice. I don't recall needing much upper body strength back when we wore big leather climbing boots and could stand on our feet.
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Oh man, I wish I was with you guys! I haven't been trad climbing in the mountains in over 5 years! thanks to a move of residence that has facilitated my endurance running at the cost of my rock climbing. Now that Danny has got the shoes, more climbing videos guys! (p. s. Danny, you didn't need tight shoes for multi-pitch trad! Pain goes with sport climbing; -) )
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Nice climbing Chase and very classy Danny to tell it the way it really is, tough and gnarly. Get some TC pro's like Chase, way more comfy, and just leave them on for all the class 5 pitches, way safer, especially soloing, that alway how I roll. .. . The cold sucks climbing, makes the risk level way more unpredictable. .. especially soloing!
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Impressive to watch as always. Your ability to be confident and controlled with that kind of exposure is something that I admire and most definitely do not possess. So thanks for letting us who would be paralyzed by the exposure live it vicariously through you.
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you guys should do wild cat ridge! it connects the south summit of mount olympus on the west to mount raymond on the east. heard its very technical and will require a good 12 hours since its all scrambling and ridge climbing for the most part
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so funny about the climbing shoes! that's what I thought when I got my first pair, but the salesperson was definitely right! helps with stability and power on small footholds, but you probably know that now, with this video being 9+ mths old
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Could you write in the description what time of year you do each of your adventures? It would be great to get a sense of the conditions at various times! (i know this one was in september, but in many other videos it doesn't say)
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Hi there, I sent emails to see if there is an opportunity to set up a partnership on heated products and skiing gear. If interested, please check the emails. Hope you have a wonderful time this coming Christmas. Thanks in advance!
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wow amazing, very amazing, I am very happy to see the videos that you make are really creative and always present the latest videos, good luck, healthy always long life, lots of sustenance, keep the spirit, keep working
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Guys. I REALLY enjoyed this video. Thank you for for sharing this great Alpine climb with us. I hope to do the other side next summer. don't think I will ever be ready for that route though. Never stop climbing!
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Anytime I wanna do something mediocre, I watch your videos for motivation! I enjoy all your attempts and successes. Stay safe and don't forget to spend time with your better half!
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Had the chance to climb the Exum route n the early 1980s and spent the night before in the hut with Glenn Exum himself. He was doing an anniversary ascent. Very memorable. Great video.
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i just got back from yosemite im sitting in my living room by the christmas tree and fire place eating pasta and watching a mediocre video life doesnt get better than this
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Amateur? Perhaps. Mediocre? Absolutely not! This is some serious stuff and not for the inexperienced. Thank you for sharing your adventures with us.
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That was fkn great! I've always wondered what that route looked like up close. Turns out it looks even more terrifying than I thought it would. Lol.
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Interesting the climb was in September and video is being uploaded in December. Not meant to be mean in any way. Just surprised about the timeline.
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This is my favorite video of yours so far. I have climbed the grand and your depiction of a first time grand climber is perfect. Keep it up!
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Well put together video.
To the fellow with the green Dynafit jacket - what model of jacket is that? Looks really cool: )

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Is the fifth pitch have an actual climbing grade like 5. 6 or 5. 7? Or is the whole route classified as scrambling?
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You don't need super tight shoes for trad climbing- especially lower grades. Comfort is more important on all day efforts.
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