Don't Do This When Parking Your Car
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Date: 2019-12-20
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Comments and reviews: 9
Mark Bajek
03 cav 510, 000 miles orig trans, engine, I replaced a few suspension parts, a fuel pump or was it 2? and front wheel bearings along the way, lot's of break jobs, tires etc but after about 325, 000 it was burning a quart of oil every 1000, until a quickie lube over tightened the filter cap, cracked it and on a long ride it lost most of it's oil. not enough to tick off the light but certainly enough to make some thrashing noises at -6 degrees at a gas station in rural MIchigan after about 300 miles post oil change, from it's home base in Detroit. I checked the dip stick and saw nothing on the stick at 1 AM( for a second I thought maybe it just had really clean oil in dim lighting. ) until I looked under the car and had an OH this aint' good moment as the engine was dripping oil(it never leaked a drop before, just burned oil. I filled it up with gas station oil in the middle of no where drove to a big city, got a new filter cover/cap. after that it burned a quart every 300 miles or so. but limped it's way to 420, 000 burning oil all the way and plugged the catalytic, So it got straight piped after that to the muffler and begrudginly got to 510, 000 when if you started it you'd get an oil light, but if you shut if off and restarted it? the oil light vanished. but that was a sign to say good bye to a car that travelled to the moon and back in mileage. that and a few driver's side deer strikes in it's final months near Grand Rapids. It's just nutty how reliable that car almost was, but it was a commuter car and a partial hwy milage car for long trips about 1/2 the time.
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03 cav 510, 000 miles orig trans, engine, I replaced a few suspension parts, a fuel pump or was it 2? and front wheel bearings along the way, lot's of break jobs, tires etc but after about 325, 000 it was burning a quart of oil every 1000, until a quickie lube over tightened the filter cap, cracked it and on a long ride it lost most of it's oil. not enough to tick off the light but certainly enough to make some thrashing noises at -6 degrees at a gas station in rural MIchigan after about 300 miles post oil change, from it's home base in Detroit. I checked the dip stick and saw nothing on the stick at 1 AM( for a second I thought maybe it just had really clean oil in dim lighting. ) until I looked under the car and had an OH this aint' good moment as the engine was dripping oil(it never leaked a drop before, just burned oil. I filled it up with gas station oil in the middle of no where drove to a big city, got a new filter cover/cap. after that it burned a quart every 300 miles or so. but limped it's way to 420, 000 burning oil all the way and plugged the catalytic, So it got straight piped after that to the muffler and begrudginly got to 510, 000 when if you started it you'd get an oil light, but if you shut if off and restarted it? the oil light vanished. but that was a sign to say good bye to a car that travelled to the moon and back in mileage. that and a few driver's side deer strikes in it's final months near Grand Rapids. It's just nutty how reliable that car almost was, but it was a commuter car and a partial hwy milage car for long trips about 1/2 the time.
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ijzerkoekie
So on idling issues, my 89 F150 with a 4. 9 six and manual trans, a few years ago, if I went on the freeway and I'd step on the clutch, the idle would sometimes go so low it would die and I would have to restart it and it was fine. Now, coming off the freeway, the idle will still dip from higher revs when stepping on the clutch, but it hasn't died (I've done a tuneup, a new air filter and fuel filter, but it still often goes to 500 rpm (coming off the freeway and stopped at a light) and then slowly goes back to 700-800 rpm where I think it is idling normally. What could cause this? It runs pretty good, but sometimes a little rough in idle. Plugs and wires are still fine. My gas mileage has been atrocious - but I figure that is because my commute is a lot of stop and go and I have 170K miles on it. I love this truck, but I am starting to see a lot of age related maintenance and I am thinking about getting a newer vehicle - probably a Toyota lol - could this idle thing be part of its age, or do I have a vacuum issue or something? I did bypass the smog pump with the right belt when the smog pump locked up, but I did that after the issue started so I don't think that's related. Any thoughts?
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So on idling issues, my 89 F150 with a 4. 9 six and manual trans, a few years ago, if I went on the freeway and I'd step on the clutch, the idle would sometimes go so low it would die and I would have to restart it and it was fine. Now, coming off the freeway, the idle will still dip from higher revs when stepping on the clutch, but it hasn't died (I've done a tuneup, a new air filter and fuel filter, but it still often goes to 500 rpm (coming off the freeway and stopped at a light) and then slowly goes back to 700-800 rpm where I think it is idling normally. What could cause this? It runs pretty good, but sometimes a little rough in idle. Plugs and wires are still fine. My gas mileage has been atrocious - but I figure that is because my commute is a lot of stop and go and I have 170K miles on it. I love this truck, but I am starting to see a lot of age related maintenance and I am thinking about getting a newer vehicle - probably a Toyota lol - could this idle thing be part of its age, or do I have a vacuum issue or something? I did bypass the smog pump with the right belt when the smog pump locked up, but I did that after the issue started so I don't think that's related. Any thoughts?
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John Lentry
I live on a monthly 1000 dollar Social Security retirement budget and I want to buy a vehicle (car or truck) that is 6 to 7 years old and in the 5 to 7 grand purchase range. If you were in my situation, what make and model vehicles would you be looking at that would last for a while and be dependable if they are maintained properly? I would drive it mostly in the city and for about 6000 miles a year. I am open to getting one with a standard transmission but prefer an automatic at age 65. I currently drive a 2004 Jeep Liberty that I could trade-in or sell as well. but I don't want to buy from a used car dealer as you have also urged viewers not to. Thanks I enjoy watching your funny and informative videos and look forward to seeing new ones each day.
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I live on a monthly 1000 dollar Social Security retirement budget and I want to buy a vehicle (car or truck) that is 6 to 7 years old and in the 5 to 7 grand purchase range. If you were in my situation, what make and model vehicles would you be looking at that would last for a while and be dependable if they are maintained properly? I would drive it mostly in the city and for about 6000 miles a year. I am open to getting one with a standard transmission but prefer an automatic at age 65. I currently drive a 2004 Jeep Liberty that I could trade-in or sell as well. but I don't want to buy from a used car dealer as you have also urged viewers not to. Thanks I enjoy watching your funny and informative videos and look forward to seeing new ones each day.
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Mark Dumagpi
Never ever change gears, when the vehicle is in motion, whether you drive an automatic or a manual, because you can damage the transmission. Always put it in gear, once the vehicle comes to a halt or a complete stop, when the speedometer is exactly at zero, either in km/h (kilometres per hour) or mph (miles per hour. You can also get an older, 2006 Dodge Caravan SXT minivan, which is the short based or regular-wheelbase model for this demonstration, because the four-speed automatic transmission has a column shifter. It only has the 3. 3 L V6 engine with 180 horsepower, not the 2. 4 L four-cylinder engine with 150 horsepower, because that 2. 4 L engine in these vehicles are extremely horrible.
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Never ever change gears, when the vehicle is in motion, whether you drive an automatic or a manual, because you can damage the transmission. Always put it in gear, once the vehicle comes to a halt or a complete stop, when the speedometer is exactly at zero, either in km/h (kilometres per hour) or mph (miles per hour. You can also get an older, 2006 Dodge Caravan SXT minivan, which is the short based or regular-wheelbase model for this demonstration, because the four-speed automatic transmission has a column shifter. It only has the 3. 3 L V6 engine with 180 horsepower, not the 2. 4 L four-cylinder engine with 150 horsepower, because that 2. 4 L engine in these vehicles are extremely horrible.
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Time To Wake Up
Scotty, I've got a 2010 Honda Accord 4 Cylinder with 225K miles. She has all original parts under the hood aside from the battery, spark plugs, and starter. I do all the standard maintenance stuff, i. e oil changes, coolant change, transmission fluid drain and fill, brakes, tires/rotations, filters, etc. She still runs great. Do you recommend any specific services I should have done considering the high mileage, or just keep doing the same?
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Scotty, I've got a 2010 Honda Accord 4 Cylinder with 225K miles. She has all original parts under the hood aside from the battery, spark plugs, and starter. I do all the standard maintenance stuff, i. e oil changes, coolant change, transmission fluid drain and fill, brakes, tires/rotations, filters, etc. She still runs great. Do you recommend any specific services I should have done considering the high mileage, or just keep doing the same?
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DudeHikes
Scotty I've got a 2003 Ford Escape the idle dips and it putters when I accelerate from idle. I've changed the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor and IAC valve but still it dips even with no accessories on. Also have a problem when I'm sitting on 50mph, the revs drop to 1400 the engine stutters and shakes then it either drops a gear or shakes down the road, is this my transmission on the way out? Thanks for all the helpful videos
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Scotty I've got a 2003 Ford Escape the idle dips and it putters when I accelerate from idle. I've changed the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body, MAF sensor and IAC valve but still it dips even with no accessories on. Also have a problem when I'm sitting on 50mph, the revs drop to 1400 the engine stutters and shakes then it either drops a gear or shakes down the road, is this my transmission on the way out? Thanks for all the helpful videos
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4G12
Some modern factory turbo cars have electric coolant pumps that enable them to pump coolant through the turbo for a finite time after the engine is turned off so the turbo gets progressively cooled and does not suffer from excessive heatsoak. As for turbo engines without such systems, a turbo timer is mandatory for those who actually want my to guarantee the reliability and durability of their turbo engines if they don't want to waste time.
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Some modern factory turbo cars have electric coolant pumps that enable them to pump coolant through the turbo for a finite time after the engine is turned off so the turbo gets progressively cooled and does not suffer from excessive heatsoak. As for turbo engines without such systems, a turbo timer is mandatory for those who actually want my to guarantee the reliability and durability of their turbo engines if they don't want to waste time.
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Shawn Ditty
Hey Scotty, I Have A 2005 Honda Accord 4cyl with 212, 000 miles, Everytime I turn my car all the way to the right and reverse theres a repeatable clunking noise that come from the left side by the front wheel, I changed the stabilizer bar bushings, links and inner and outer tire rods and the right side axle, I dont know what else it could be. Please help me I keep buying parts and dont know whats giving me the clunking noise
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Hey Scotty, I Have A 2005 Honda Accord 4cyl with 212, 000 miles, Everytime I turn my car all the way to the right and reverse theres a repeatable clunking noise that come from the left side by the front wheel, I changed the stabilizer bar bushings, links and inner and outer tire rods and the right side axle, I dont know what else it could be. Please help me I keep buying parts and dont know whats giving me the clunking noise
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tom ster
idle, let a heat making device keep making heat by let it keep running to cool down. most people dont get this for one simple reason; it should be saying, let it cool down to normal operating temperature before shutting down. cuz as you said, only if you have been driving it hard. so most just shut it off no matter anything else. the comma and decimal point was misplaced or left out so it didnt make any sense.
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idle, let a heat making device keep making heat by let it keep running to cool down. most people dont get this for one simple reason; it should be saying, let it cool down to normal operating temperature before shutting down. cuz as you said, only if you have been driving it hard. so most just shut it off no matter anything else. the comma and decimal point was misplaced or left out so it didnt make any sense.
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