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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » Scotty Kilmer
A Serious Warning to All Car Owners, Stop Using This Engine Oil Right Now

A Serious Warning to All Car Owners, Stop Using This Engine Oil Right Now

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Rating: 4.3; Vote: 3
A Serious Warning to All Car Owners, Stop Using This Engine Oil Right Now Liviu: Any car with a turbocharger needs some idle time when you start them up (1-2 minutes in the summer and 5-10 minutes during the winter, so the oil will pass thru the turbo's bushings or bearings on which the rotors shaft sit, otherwise you will get friction between them, it will wear out and eventually snap. You also need to let the vehicle idle a bit after you park it for the same reason because the oil must cool and make a thicker film between the rotors shaft and the bushings/bearings.
Date: 2020-09-06

Comments and reviews: 9


12 year old Nissans fall apart, because they are made by renault and thus giant crap buckets, 20 year old nissans and older are still going strong here in NZ(despite the total lack of maintaining on most of em)
Source: My Nissan Pulsar/Pulsar/Pulsar/Pulsar/ U13 Bluebird/Pulsar/Maxima
Currently running the maxima, sold the rest to family members, cept the bluebird, teenagers hit and run t-boned it.
my mitsi galants(2 of em) valve tappet rattled to bits, my mazda familiar/323 from the 1990's rusted to death, my 2001 honda 2. 4l CRV started burning oil untill it was like owning a 2 stroke motorbike(alot worse actually) and the key barrels all commited suicide.
Only reliable cars I've owned were Toyota's and Nissans.
2001-backwards you have a Nissan
2002-2009 you probably have a Nissan engine, with Renault body and electronics(and this expect coil packs and crank ref sensors to die)
2010-Now you got a Renault with a Nissan badge on it, and you are doubly screwed if you got the CVT model, Jatco make garbage CVT's

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I had a 1966 Lincoln (in the early 1970's. one day on the freeway I heard all the tappets making lots of noise like 1, 000 sewing machines. I drove back and forth on the freeway to work for 3 days. It finally stopped working, but made it to a mechanics shop. They though it was the fuel pump, but it turned out the Ford 462 engine had a metal rod that rod one of the cam lobes that ran both the fuel pump and the oil pump. The end of the metal rod was beat flat and had stopped running the oil pump. That was the tappets (hydraulic lifters) making a huge racket, there was no oil being pumped for 3 days. btw, the mechanic didn't fix it, I did, he replaced the fuel pump, but it was that metal rod that had to be replaced. The headline is the car ran on the freeway for 3 days without an oil pump and it still ran after that part was replaced.
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In very cold weather if your car sits outside let it warm up.
1. You need heat to defrost the windows, or you could stick your head out the window till the defroster comes on.
2. The transmission and power steering work better if warmed up. At least in the old cars I used to drive to work before retiring.
I was always amazed at the number of cars parked outside covered with ice and snow and there garage is full of junk. Sorry if thats you.
Only snow I see now is on the cameras at home when I'm down in southern Texas for the winter.

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Couldn't disagree more on warming up an engine. Getting on it when an engine is cold is the worst thing you can do other than not maintaining it/keeping enough oil in it. There's a reason there's a normal operating temperature and why some performance cars won't let you rev over a certain RPM when an engine is cold. It puts a strain and a shock on engine parts to get on it when it's cold. I go light throttle and around 2000rpm until it's in the normal range or at least until the blue cold engine light goes out.
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I live in Nova Scotia, and in the winter I warm up my car for as long as it takes to scrape the frost of the windows and/or brush any snow off the car. No need to run in any longer. If I am dressed warm enough to clean off the car then I am dressed warm enough to drive in a cold car. A good pair of leather gloves gives a great grip on the steering wheel.
The only time that I'll warm it up longer is if there is frost on the inside of the windows. Then I really need to wait for the fan to clear it up.

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My manual recommends: 0W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40, 10W-50. Which one should i use? The dealer once told me 5W-30, the next time they told me only 10W-40. Like they are not sure themselves. Last time i have put 10W-40 and it's an okay oil, but it's only semi-synthetic and not the best performing/fuel saving oil that's for sure. I was thinking either 5W-30 or 5W-40(which is not in the manual, but it is withing all ranges as it seems. What do you think scotty?
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My 2018 Toyota Camry with the 2. 5 L 4-cylinder has a sticker under the hood calling for 0W-16 oil. However, the manual states for high speed driving in high temperatures 0w-20, or even 0W-30 can be used. As long as you maintain the 0W on the low end, you'll get the oil pumped to where it needs to go fast. Out here in the Arizona desert I use 0W-20 in the Winter, and 0W-30 in the Summer. There is no reason to use 0W-16 in this climate.
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I d be very surprised if self driving cars are something common in my lifetime. Imagine how much revenue would be lost. No speeding tickets, no DUIs, and so on. I also don t see how anyone could be required to have a driver s license, more lost revenue. Insurance rates would plummet since accidents and violations would virtually disappear. Long story short, there s no money to be made by taking the human fallibility out of driving.
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speaking of SUV at 3: 55 don't buy an SUV unless you really need it, if you don't need 4WD or not pulling a heavy trailer but need something to seat lots of people, buy a Sienna Miniva, but if you need 4WD but have less people, buy a Tacoma 4x4 regular cab, or if you need something to tow somthing with, and your single, buy a Tundra regularcab, there no reason to waste money on something that you don't need.
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