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zakruti.com » Do it Yourself - Handmade » Garden Answer
We've Changed How We're Treating Yellowing Foliage and It's Working!

We've Changed How We're Treating Yellowing Foliage and It's Working!

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We've Changed How We're Treating Yellowing Foliage and It's Working! Garden Answer Jennifer: A good way to apply the EDDHA iron around large plants such as shrubs and trees is to drill holes with your plant auger (about a 2 diameter is fine) down about 6. I typically drill 6 holes in a circle spaced equally around the tree near the dripline, and then divide the total iron amount recommended on the package (which is based on the trunk diameter) by the 6 holes. Place the iron in the holes and replace the soil to fill them. This gets the iron down in soil and around the roots faster and you don't have to worry about the red staining. The Grow More product packages give instructions on this method. While the foliage spray method will initially give quick results, it is temporary and inconsistent, and you simply can't get enough of the product into the tree. Also, you run a terrible risk of staining everything in vicinity red as well as wasting expensive product. The iron in just about any form will stain concrete, pavers, your siding, etc a permanent rust color. You can also treat via soil drench method by mixing the product with a few gallons water in a pail and spreading around the base of the tree just inside/near the dripline. Again consult the product label for instructions. I treat my susceptible trees and shrubs once every 1-2 years. Best time for maintenance (as opposed to emergency treatment) would be late winter or early spring to prevent the problem from returning. This gives time for winter and spring precipitation to percolate down with the iron around the roots. Even fall could be a good time given that that is when the plant is concentrating on root growth and then your trees are fortified already in the spring when they put out new leaves.
Date: 2022-07-16

Comments and reviews: 9


Thank you. I don't typically deal with this and my soil is more alkaline, but I have wondered about my annuals & the 2 fertilizers you showed. I use Jack's and I get Jack's especially for the petunias/calibrachoa(million bells. I can't find the Proven Winners easily here and it is even more expensive to ship, but. I'm continuing to experiment. I used to only do a slow release, but even with re-applying it didn't quite do it. I started adding in the weekly water soluble like you (though Jack's) and better results. However. I do a couple different formulations, like I mentioned, and doing just the one Proven Winners may still be cheaper in the end. All in all very informative. I'd like to hear how your fertilizer experiment has been going this year. I really have a rough time keeping up on my weekly fertilization routine!
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Thank you so much for your video. I have a Maple tree that has clorosis. Yes in Colorado our PH is also above 7. 5. So all the information you provided and all the products you mention including the soil acidifier are all very important. I want you to know i added air 8, humus liquid for my grass. I applied it on Saturday and today li noticed that part of the Maple tree leaves green up and i see some red in a few leaves. It is a small amount of positive results, but I am so grateful again for your video. Thank you so much
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TY once again. I have been working in my Colorado yard to green up my grass and to help my Maple tree which has clorosis. I got an unexpected benefit occur with a recent application of Air8 humic acid to the lawn. 4 days later I see my Maple has 1/2 the tree leaves turned green. Kinda late but a perfect result. I will be applying the chelated iron as well. I too have high PH and need to amend my soil. Thank you for your wonderful content. My flowers, bushes, grass and trees will benefit from your knowledge. TY
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Thank you so much for this video. My impatients were doing this, then I switched my fertilizer, in a week the leaves greened up and became so big, green and beautiful but the blooms disappeared. I ordered and tried the Proven Winners and some of the blooms are returning. What a difference a week makes. I did some research today and found out that the fertilizer impatients like is 10-10-10. So Im looking for a good fertilizer for them. I need help, what do you suggest? I clearly am lost.
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white shirt to reflect sunlight, never wear dark clothes in warm to hot weather! All so a strawhat for your head and sun block on all exposed skin. Drink tap water before you go out side to work in the sun. when I was mowing lawns Summer 1989 kept a 1 gallon thermos of water in my car to keep hydrated all day long. Lived in the Mohave Desert from 1955 to 1966 both Southern California and Arizona. From age 5 to 16. Now at 73 years old still remember the survival ways of us Desert dogs.
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Haven't read any comments so I apologize if I'm restating someone else comment.
Laura would you consider doing a step by step of explaining how to find out our ph levels, where to check in our yards.
I have clororis issue with my trees but not all of my maples. I get mixed messages but most seem to be centered on clay issues. I'm frustrated. Is there kits to check myself since people are weeks if not months scheduled out?

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Very helpful info. I live in the Valley and am struggling with the heat also, though not as extreme as you have on the east side. Am starting to think I need to move away from plants like hydrangeas to ones that are more heat tolerant. It would be great if you could d o a couple episodes on how to make this transition and still maintain some of the lushness we take for granted in the PNW
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Thank you for talking about the difference between chlorosis and overwatering- Something I still struggle identifying! I have dappled willows with light green leaves with burned tips. I know how much they like water and I kept thinking they were burning up because of lack of water. Now Im thinking maybe its chlorosis Anyone know if Willows are susceptible to chlorosis?
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I know you use to use gypsum in your last garden. Do you still use it? Could it help condition/break up the soil so the iron is able to be utilized? I know this is a chronic problem including high PH in your water so you have to combat it specifically this way. Im in Nebraska, zone 5 with clay-ish soil so just curious about gypsum applications.
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