Chevy Truck: Battery Dies Overnight - FOLLOW UP
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Date: 2021-10-06
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Comments and reviews: 9
superdupergrover
Please note that he checked to make sure the part matched the box and that it matched the truck.
As a parts man myself, I can say, despite our InFaLLiBle reputation, we do make mistakes.
I usually check the box to make sure it is new, undamaged and looks like the description, but I can't go looking up pictures on the web to 100% make sure it will fit your car. Even _if_ I did that AND had a real example of your year, make and model to verify, it could still be the wrong part for your car. Three examples, starting with the most common:
1. Last year's parts. Usually there is a clue in our catalogue, but not always.
2. Modifications, as in happened after it left the factory. Especially with p/up trucks, as they tend to have identical mountings between variants, years and models. P/ups also have a lot of red-neck engineering and what I call hot rod problems, as in parts from a wide range of the automotive spectrum. P/ups and vans tend to be in a lot of stripped chassis and cab & chassis applications, which often have parts from different years and models from the same company. If you aren't the first owner, DO NOT assume it didn't happen.
3. Completely wrong part at factory. Quite rare for non-hardware and often indistinguishable from mods. Usually from a similar model on the same production line, but not always. This one is really tough, because the markings on the part are not always helpful.
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Please note that he checked to make sure the part matched the box and that it matched the truck.
As a parts man myself, I can say, despite our InFaLLiBle reputation, we do make mistakes.
I usually check the box to make sure it is new, undamaged and looks like the description, but I can't go looking up pictures on the web to 100% make sure it will fit your car. Even _if_ I did that AND had a real example of your year, make and model to verify, it could still be the wrong part for your car. Three examples, starting with the most common:
1. Last year's parts. Usually there is a clue in our catalogue, but not always.
2. Modifications, as in happened after it left the factory. Especially with p/up trucks, as they tend to have identical mountings between variants, years and models. P/ups also have a lot of red-neck engineering and what I call hot rod problems, as in parts from a wide range of the automotive spectrum. P/ups and vans tend to be in a lot of stripped chassis and cab & chassis applications, which often have parts from different years and models from the same company. If you aren't the first owner, DO NOT assume it didn't happen.
3. Completely wrong part at factory. Quite rare for non-hardware and often indistinguishable from mods. Usually from a similar model on the same production line, but not always. This one is really tough, because the markings on the part are not always helpful.
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Andreas
Had some work done on my car this week so it was up on the lift. I looked under it and noticed that, other than a bit of road grime, the body looked as pristine as the day I took delivery from the dealer 10 years ago. Unlike the cars you get to work on, which appear to be racing between rusting apart and wearing out on the way to the junkyard. When you get tired of rust in your eye, move to the desert SW. Local cars actually unbolt when they are supposed to.
Thank for the automotive insights, I wish you were here running a shop.
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Had some work done on my car this week so it was up on the lift. I looked under it and noticed that, other than a bit of road grime, the body looked as pristine as the day I took delivery from the dealer 10 years ago. Unlike the cars you get to work on, which appear to be racing between rusting apart and wearing out on the way to the junkyard. When you get tired of rust in your eye, move to the desert SW. Local cars actually unbolt when they are supposed to.
Thank for the automotive insights, I wish you were here running a shop.
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Practical
Hi, Mr. O
Hi, guys and gals
I have a little smoke out of the tailpipes after long idle, but no oil consumption and great compression numbers, I changed the valve seals and I think it maybe oil control ring, Is there a way to test the oil control rings & If my assumption is correct is there a way to unseize the rings without taking the engine apart
PS: the car is a 1fz-fe land cruiser 150+K miles. oil catch can on the pcv valve
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Hi, Mr. O
Hi, guys and gals
I have a little smoke out of the tailpipes after long idle, but no oil consumption and great compression numbers, I changed the valve seals and I think it maybe oil control ring, Is there a way to test the oil control rings & If my assumption is correct is there a way to unseize the rings without taking the engine apart
PS: the car is a 1fz-fe land cruiser 150+K miles. oil catch can on the pcv valve
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houptee
How much was the part from dealership? Did you look if aftermarket part exists or do you not like using aftermarket parts? I have had good luck with some incredibly inexpensive sensors and brand new starters and alternators sold on ebay and Amazon. For example a brand new starter for my dakota was 60 free shipping and cranks much better than when the truck was brand new! A iac valve was 10 generic white boxed working perfectly.
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How much was the part from dealership? Did you look if aftermarket part exists or do you not like using aftermarket parts? I have had good luck with some incredibly inexpensive sensors and brand new starters and alternators sold on ebay and Amazon. For example a brand new starter for my dakota was 60 free shipping and cranks much better than when the truck was brand new! A iac valve was 10 generic white boxed working perfectly.
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JohnnieBravo1
I have seen locally (North Alabama, used 4WD trucks have price hits when the writeup shows actuator problem, unknown battery draw, mechanic's special on them. Easy fix IF you know where to look and what to replace. priceless info. Thanks Eric!
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I have seen locally (North Alabama, used 4WD trucks have price hits when the writeup shows actuator problem, unknown battery draw, mechanic's special on them. Easy fix IF you know where to look and what to replace. priceless info. Thanks Eric!
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Black3ternity
Always appreciate your content.
Wish you were the one to swap the engine on my car so I could stand there and learn from it. Still waiting for my engine to get delivered to my workshop. Let's see if they can do it properly: D
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Always appreciate your content.
Wish you were the one to swap the engine on my car so I could stand there and learn from it. Still waiting for my engine to get delivered to my workshop. Let's see if they can do it properly: D
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Qusin111
I really didn't have a comment but was told to do so and this is what you get. better then nothing: ) oh wait maybe, the actuator may have been stuck and was trying to move causing the load. thank god I though of something to say.
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I really didn't have a comment but was told to do so and this is what you get. better then nothing: ) oh wait maybe, the actuator may have been stuck and was trying to move causing the load. thank god I though of something to say.
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Orion
Nice being able to turn the keys over to the customer and turning your back on that repair not just 'thinking' you fixed it but KNOWING you fixed it. Maybe a little redundant on the front end but oh so confident on the back end!
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Nice being able to turn the keys over to the customer and turning your back on that repair not just 'thinking' you fixed it but KNOWING you fixed it. Maybe a little redundant on the front end but oh so confident on the back end!
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Craig
I asked my Wife to crawl under my truck to check out my actuator. She picked up a breaker bar and reminded me that any tool could be used as a hammer and suggested (strongly) I check out my own actuator! ( % Thanks for Sharing!
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I asked my Wife to crawl under my truck to check out my actuator. She picked up a breaker bar and reminded me that any tool could be used as a hammer and suggested (strongly) I check out my own actuator! ( % Thanks for Sharing!
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