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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » Scotty Kilmer
Changing Brake Rotors (My Final Repair Job)

Changing Brake Rotors (My Final Repair Job)

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Rating: 4.5; Vote: 2
Changing Brake Rotors (My Final Repair Job) eighthof8: Never allow a tire shop to use an impact when mounting tires. Thought the wife was responsible for warped rotors when a pro told me that tire jockeys using an impact are responsible. I tell the tire shop during a rotation they can draw the bolts up with an impact, but they are to use a torque wrench to put lugs to proper and final torque. If you don't trust them, watch them especially at places like chinamart. Problem with warped rotors solved
Date: 2019-10-31

Comments and reviews: 8


You dont measure warpage with vernier callipers, you certainly cant tell with your hand that its warped, and those rotors most definitely are not anywhere near 20 years old. You failed to clean the surface that the back of the rotor sit flush against, also you didnt properly remove, free up and grease the slider pins on the brake calliper carier, also no grease applied to rear of the pad where the piston of the calliper is going to contact the pad very poor job overall if im honest. And yes im a qualified mechanic myself.
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What does it mean when I hit the brakes at 100+ and in a second or two the whole car starts shaking and the brakes are working about half power. Once I release the brakes for 5 to 10 seconds, then reapply the brakes the car gradually start shaking violently until I release the brakes again. If I dont use the brakes for a few minutes and Im around 60, it is fine for shortish brake use. Around town, its great, even when breaking hard, no shake at all.
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Those old rotors were very beefy. You could have taken them to the parts store and had them turned for like 20. The new rotors likely cost between 50 and 60 each. I used to work at a Brake Shop. We would cut brand new out of the box rotors and discover they were slightly warped. So better is not always best. It the rotor is in spec and true you won't get customers complaining that they feel a light pulsation in the pedal.
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Did not put the two antidrag springs back on, and pushed the pedal to the floor, not good Build up can happen inside of the master cylinder where the owner never pushes the pedal further than that. By pushing the pedal to the floor you are having the rubber seal blast through that crust ridge and it can ruin the seal. Many short brake pedal pumps till it gets hard is the way too go.
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Changing break pads is one of the first things I had to figure out how to do on a car. They were on an 89 El Dorado. The only guidance I had was to be sure to compress the hydraulic part. Also to PUMP THE BREAK before driving it. My brother forgot to do that and rolled into the ditch in front of the driveway. Fortunately the only thing hurt was his pride
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Scotty, I noticed you didn't use a torque wrench reinstalling the caliper assemblies. Is that not a big deal or do you just have a calibrated feel from doing it for so many years? I ask because I know that over torquing the lug nuts can warp the rotors. Not sure if over torquing the calipers risks any similar damage is all. Thanks.
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Scotty I went to the service center I always go too (local owner not a chain) for a set of new tires. They told me I need stabilization bars for my 2010 Yukon Denali. It drives perfect no vibrations or anything but I have heard a slight popping sound recently could that be what I hear? And how much should I pay for such a job?
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Scotty i need some help Ive had ceramic brake pads for a while now and they ALWAYS squeal like crazy Im sick of it, added some copper anti-seize and they still squeal. Even when hot they squeal. What i have noticed is that they squeal when coming to a stop. Please help: ( took to a mechanic shop and they werent warped
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