I Cant Believe I Put This on a Car
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Date: 2019-05-28
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Comments and reviews: 9
bullsballs
Scotty, I need to teach you about electrical wiring in vehicles. First, your solder joint was cold, the solder needs to flow into the wire strands. Start heating the wire without solder until it is hot enough to have the solder flow. Second, do not run the wires outside the rubber grommet. By having the wires between the grommet and metal body, the wire insulation can be damage and short out, and blow the fuse inline with the battery. Third, never solder terminals onto the wires, use crimp terminals. The soldered wires can break from vibration. Nice video tho, I added a start button on my 1978 F250 as the wiring or trans safety switch failed. I did not want to fight the Michigan rust to try and figure it out.
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Scotty, I need to teach you about electrical wiring in vehicles. First, your solder joint was cold, the solder needs to flow into the wire strands. Start heating the wire without solder until it is hot enough to have the solder flow. Second, do not run the wires outside the rubber grommet. By having the wires between the grommet and metal body, the wire insulation can be damage and short out, and blow the fuse inline with the battery. Third, never solder terminals onto the wires, use crimp terminals. The soldered wires can break from vibration. Nice video tho, I added a start button on my 1978 F250 as the wiring or trans safety switch failed. I did not want to fight the Michigan rust to try and figure it out.
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David Price
If you are using lead free solder you should always make sure that there is some solder flux to hand, its cheaper to use lead free plumbers flux, lead free solder does not have enough flux in it to use on its own. If you use lead solder use use flux designed for lead solder you may not need it for lead solder anyway. If you are using aluminium or stainless steel solder these run at 400 degrees centigrade. If you are using electrical lead free solder the temporature is generally 340-360 degrees centigrade. Also use a chisal soldering tip for lead free. You may need to go below 340 degrees centigrade for lead free for very fine work and dont forget to use a flux pen for fine work.
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If you are using lead free solder you should always make sure that there is some solder flux to hand, its cheaper to use lead free plumbers flux, lead free solder does not have enough flux in it to use on its own. If you use lead solder use use flux designed for lead solder you may not need it for lead solder anyway. If you are using aluminium or stainless steel solder these run at 400 degrees centigrade. If you are using electrical lead free solder the temporature is generally 340-360 degrees centigrade. Also use a chisal soldering tip for lead free. You may need to go below 340 degrees centigrade for lead free for very fine work and dont forget to use a flux pen for fine work.
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Kunal Tailor
Hi Scotty, big fan of yours from India. I need to ask you one question about my car. I drive 2003 Maruti Suzuki Zen, it clocked 188 thousand kilo meter. It has 1 litter SOHC Suzuki GB10 petrol engine. The problem I am observing is if I start car and start driving it I feel low power in 1st gear, if I start the car and keep it ideal for 1 or 2 minutes, I do not observe power loss. Car is regularly maintained at dealership and at 185 thousand mark clutch is replaced. The engine never got open for any repairs. Also I do not feel power issue 2nd gear onwards and no drop in milage. Hope to hear from you. ThanksKunal.
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Hi Scotty, big fan of yours from India. I need to ask you one question about my car. I drive 2003 Maruti Suzuki Zen, it clocked 188 thousand kilo meter. It has 1 litter SOHC Suzuki GB10 petrol engine. The problem I am observing is if I start car and start driving it I feel low power in 1st gear, if I start the car and keep it ideal for 1 or 2 minutes, I do not observe power loss. Car is regularly maintained at dealership and at 185 thousand mark clutch is replaced. The engine never got open for any repairs. Also I do not feel power issue 2nd gear onwards and no drop in milage. Hope to hear from you. ThanksKunal.
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fudge nuggert sippinslide
Whoah whoah whoa did you really go beside that rubber grommet against the metal with those wires? Take a metal coat hanger and tape it to your two wires and poke the other side throughbthe grommet a centimeter or so to the side of the other wires. Dont run the hanger right against the wires or against the metal around the gromet the vibration at some point will scratch away the insulating material around the wire if you have it against the firewall beside and the starter button will be grounded and not work at least if not destroy computer systems.
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Whoah whoah whoa did you really go beside that rubber grommet against the metal with those wires? Take a metal coat hanger and tape it to your two wires and poke the other side throughbthe grommet a centimeter or so to the side of the other wires. Dont run the hanger right against the wires or against the metal around the gromet the vibration at some point will scratch away the insulating material around the wire if you have it against the firewall beside and the starter button will be grounded and not work at least if not destroy computer systems.
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Modern DIY Projects
Sorry to rain on your parade but this wont work well for very long. Most computer controlled cars dont start the motor directly. The ignition is routed through the ECM which also control the fuel pump, timing, security system etc. If the ECM doesnt get or give the proper signals, nothing else will work properly. They all have to communicate to run the car. This can cause ECM failure or all sorts of trouble codes. This would only work on a 70s to 80s vehicle, not any newer than that.
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Sorry to rain on your parade but this wont work well for very long. Most computer controlled cars dont start the motor directly. The ignition is routed through the ECM which also control the fuel pump, timing, security system etc. If the ECM doesnt get or give the proper signals, nothing else will work properly. They all have to communicate to run the car. This can cause ECM failure or all sorts of trouble codes. This would only work on a 70s to 80s vehicle, not any newer than that.
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Avery Alexander
1: 52 Thats not a good idea to run the wires next to the grommet. Not only does the rubber grommet push the wire into the sharp metal edge of the firewall and possibly cut the insulation and create a short over time, the grommet will no longer seal properly either, which means air and possibly water will leak into the car. This can be seen at 1: 56, you can see right into the car. Sure, you can push the grommet back in and get a better seal, but it will still leak.
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1: 52 Thats not a good idea to run the wires next to the grommet. Not only does the rubber grommet push the wire into the sharp metal edge of the firewall and possibly cut the insulation and create a short over time, the grommet will no longer seal properly either, which means air and possibly water will leak into the car. This can be seen at 1: 56, you can see right into the car. Sure, you can push the grommet back in and get a better seal, but it will still leak.
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Glen O'Riley
As someone who has self installed a car alarm with imobiliser etc. it is soooo easy to screw an install there is so much wiring to deal with etc and you need to hide the obvious imobiliser tap etc. I had mine hooked in then with an aftermarket central locking kit that worked great as a pair. Now I have a newer car with all but the alarm because the car is worth more to me stolen for insurance than the alarm is lol.
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As someone who has self installed a car alarm with imobiliser etc. it is soooo easy to screw an install there is so much wiring to deal with etc and you need to hide the obvious imobiliser tap etc. I had mine hooked in then with an aftermarket central locking kit that worked great as a pair. Now I have a newer car with all but the alarm because the car is worth more to me stolen for insurance than the alarm is lol.
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PDGearhead
Scotty, way back I had an Opel GT (poor mans vette, and poor reliability. The starter part of the key switch got stuck in the start position, causing the starter to engage when the key was turned to the on position. Since I was a poor college kid, I disconnected the starter wire to the solenoid and installed a momentary bat switch (black paddle switch) that looked pretty cool. Did what you did here.
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Scotty, way back I had an Opel GT (poor mans vette, and poor reliability. The starter part of the key switch got stuck in the start position, causing the starter to engage when the key was turned to the on position. Since I was a poor college kid, I disconnected the starter wire to the solenoid and installed a momentary bat switch (black paddle switch) that looked pretty cool. Did what you did here.
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Al13n1nV8D3R
Scotty thats terrible solder work. You need to use flux so the wires will fully be covered by the solder. There should never be any copper showing in your solder work. This prevents corrosion. Even if you heat shrink it, eventually the hot engine will degrade it and can allow water to get into the solder joint and corrode it. Either that or you can get a short circuit if it touches ground.
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Scotty thats terrible solder work. You need to use flux so the wires will fully be covered by the solder. There should never be any copper showing in your solder work. This prevents corrosion. Even if you heat shrink it, eventually the hot engine will degrade it and can allow water to get into the solder joint and corrode it. Either that or you can get a short circuit if it touches ground.
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