This Scan Tool Will Destroy Your Car
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Date: 2019-06-10
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Comments and reviews: 8
Luminoth Lumi
Hey Scotty, I live in Europe and have a 2013 Alfa Romeo Giullietta 4 cylinder Multi-air Petrol 170HP with manual transmission and 37 500 miles on it. Its front right brake squeaks when the wheel is turned in random angles. Whenever it happens, as soon as I brake it stops. It never does it with cold brakes right after starting the car in the morning, only after I have braked a few times. Weirdest thing is the wheel angle at which it squeaks is random every time and sometimes it doesn't even do it, but when I find an angle at which it squeaks and I sustain that angle (in a turn for ex) then it may just stay or may fade away. I haven't found any relationship to the weather (does it in winter and in summer) and both break pads and rotor have still plenty to chew through before being worn out. Thanks for any feedback. PS: I read that the DNA system has a break pre-pumping in dynamic mode, could a fault in this be it? Yet it happens even when not using the dynamic mode.
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Hey Scotty, I live in Europe and have a 2013 Alfa Romeo Giullietta 4 cylinder Multi-air Petrol 170HP with manual transmission and 37 500 miles on it. Its front right brake squeaks when the wheel is turned in random angles. Whenever it happens, as soon as I brake it stops. It never does it with cold brakes right after starting the car in the morning, only after I have braked a few times. Weirdest thing is the wheel angle at which it squeaks is random every time and sometimes it doesn't even do it, but when I find an angle at which it squeaks and I sustain that angle (in a turn for ex) then it may just stay or may fade away. I haven't found any relationship to the weather (does it in winter and in summer) and both break pads and rotor have still plenty to chew through before being worn out. Thanks for any feedback. PS: I read that the DNA system has a break pre-pumping in dynamic mode, could a fault in this be it? Yet it happens even when not using the dynamic mode.
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Eddy Fernandes
Hey scotty, Im using a 2010 Ford Explorer XLT automatic which has done 230k kilometre on it, very recently I had to change the transmission which was used from a local garage as the gears of the car were not locking, and it moved only in the 1st gear. In spite of changing the transmission, the car gives a jerk when shifting it to reverse gear and this was the initial problem much before the other gears stopped functioning. Now All the gears work fine except for the jerk while shifting it to reverse. NEED YOUR EXPERT INPUTS. Thanks.
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Hey scotty, Im using a 2010 Ford Explorer XLT automatic which has done 230k kilometre on it, very recently I had to change the transmission which was used from a local garage as the gears of the car were not locking, and it moved only in the 1st gear. In spite of changing the transmission, the car gives a jerk when shifting it to reverse gear and this was the initial problem much before the other gears stopped functioning. Now All the gears work fine except for the jerk while shifting it to reverse. NEED YOUR EXPERT INPUTS. Thanks.
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Madmagyver
Hi Scott, I've been enjoying your vids. 1 comment: serpentine belts are manufactured in tubes then cut with the desired number of ribs, the interior fibers are continuously woven also. I've been in various factories and have seen the process. But any visible damage warrants replacement. Also, what do you think of the autel ap200? Just got one for my mb e320 cdi and it works good. It can't program but the mb star seems to be the only full function tool available but it's cost prohibitive.
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Hi Scott, I've been enjoying your vids. 1 comment: serpentine belts are manufactured in tubes then cut with the desired number of ribs, the interior fibers are continuously woven also. I've been in various factories and have seen the process. But any visible damage warrants replacement. Also, what do you think of the autel ap200? Just got one for my mb e320 cdi and it works good. It can't program but the mb star seems to be the only full function tool available but it's cost prohibitive.
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Edward Anthony
Found a Honda CRV for 500. 00 with 127k on it. Check engine light was on, won't start & looks like it's a fuel pump or relay type issue. Body & interior in great shape. Was 1 quart low on oil & needed about a quart of anti freeze with no leak type issues on dip stick but engine turned over normal when given jump due to running down the year & a half old battery when it stalled. It was driven daily with no problems until it stalled out. Need to know where tranny dip stick is located.
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Found a Honda CRV for 500. 00 with 127k on it. Check engine light was on, won't start & looks like it's a fuel pump or relay type issue. Body & interior in great shape. Was 1 quart low on oil & needed about a quart of anti freeze with no leak type issues on dip stick but engine turned over normal when given jump due to running down the year & a half old battery when it stalled. It was driven daily with no problems until it stalled out. Need to know where tranny dip stick is located.
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Chris
Don't buy the cheap chinese ones they will destroy your computer, then The canadians designed it, but it's made in China, the canadians have good quality control. If it's being made in China like the other one how much better is it really? I can design my doodad here and send it to the cheapest factory in China with lackluster QC to be made and say Hey it was designed in the USA, great quality. Nothing wrong with BlueDriver or OBDLink products though.
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Don't buy the cheap chinese ones they will destroy your computer, then The canadians designed it, but it's made in China, the canadians have good quality control. If it's being made in China like the other one how much better is it really? I can design my doodad here and send it to the cheapest factory in China with lackluster QC to be made and say Hey it was designed in the USA, great quality. Nothing wrong with BlueDriver or OBDLink products though.
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josh stone
Hey scotty. I have a 2010 civic and everything is fine except the steering wheel and the accelerator. After the car goes over 50 mph the steering starts shaking and the accelerator starts vibrating too much. I thought it was because of the imbalance so I tried balancing the wheels too but it didn't help. I have new tires and the mechanic said the alignment are ok too. what can be the reason for vibrating accelerator and steering wheel?
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Hey scotty. I have a 2010 civic and everything is fine except the steering wheel and the accelerator. After the car goes over 50 mph the steering starts shaking and the accelerator starts vibrating too much. I thought it was because of the imbalance so I tried balancing the wheels too but it didn't help. I have new tires and the mechanic said the alignment are ok too. what can be the reason for vibrating accelerator and steering wheel?
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2DogsVlogs
Scotty, I'm doing my first diesel oil change on my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Is there anything I need to look out for? I don't have a scan tool and planning to do the usual inspections, wheels off, leaks etc. Air filter is good and so is the rad. Breaks are coming up that if I need to replace them I will pick it up on the inspection. Tyres are cracking up but may last another 12 months and I'll get the breaks done at the same time.
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Scotty, I'm doing my first diesel oil change on my 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Is there anything I need to look out for? I don't have a scan tool and planning to do the usual inspections, wheels off, leaks etc. Air filter is good and so is the rad. Breaks are coming up that if I need to replace them I will pick it up on the inspection. Tyres are cracking up but may last another 12 months and I'll get the breaks done at the same time.
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LMacNeill
I bought a Blue Driver scan tool several years ago, and it's absolutely the best. You get a lot of manufacturer-specific codes that aren't available with the 50-and-under tools -- stuff that the dealer will tell you only they can read for you. Very much worth the 99 investment because of the free software upgrades -- it's those software upgrades that make it different from most of your other scan tools. Highly recommended.
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I bought a Blue Driver scan tool several years ago, and it's absolutely the best. You get a lot of manufacturer-specific codes that aren't available with the 50-and-under tools -- stuff that the dealer will tell you only they can read for you. Very much worth the 99 investment because of the free software upgrades -- it's those software upgrades that make it different from most of your other scan tools. Highly recommended.
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