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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » South Main Auto Repair
Buick Encore: Front Lower Control Arms & Outer Tie Rod

Buick Encore: Front Lower Control Arms & Outer Tie Rod

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Rating: 4.5; Vote: 2
Buick Encore: Front Lower Control Arms & Outer Tie Rod Andy: I have a 2016 Buick Encore that I did ball joints on. i have the shop manual via Alldata. I was instructed to replace the ball joint bolts because they were TTY. I didn't see Eric replace the bolts. Even the control arm bolts are TTY. Actually that ticks me off that GM had to use TTY. It was fine for 50 years plus with standard bolts, yet for some reason they needed to change them. Didn't look like Eric replaced the bolts. The control arms new don't come with new hardware either for some reason?
Date: 2023-06-22

Comments and reviews: 19


Hi Eric and the lovely Mrs. O,
Been watching now for sometime. When is Hannah going to do another video? Loved her and her friend (sorry I forget her name) doing them. Their energy and wanting to learn was infectious. Hope they'll both gang up on you and do another.
Why were you torquing to a certain number and then going with degrees to finish? Certainly they know the final number, so why not just insert that into the service manual. Not ever one can have a torque wrench that reads degrees. I sure don't.
Good video as always. I had my 17 Silverado Krowned a few weeks ago after watching your video on it. Looks like a hell of a rust prevention. Time will tell. As soon as I finish some body work and repainting my 02 Silverado I'll have it done as well. Thanks for the heads up on this Ron from Ohio

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When I have done tie rod ends I measured back from the front (towards tire) of the tie rod end to a fixed surface inline with it. Then screw the new one back to that measurement. The alignment people appreciate it. My father taught me to count the threads. That was a great way until replacement part manufacturers started cutting back on steel and making replacement parts shorter to save steel\cost. Proper torque = tighten until your elbow hurts and hold for ten seconds LOL
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I can remember my first ball joint replacement, I was in my teens, asked for help got none, so I went ahead and did it on my own, and boy did I learn the hard way of what not to do, I managed to get it done, took the whole day, more cuts than I wanted, the car I worked on was a 84 olds gutless cutless, ahhh the memories, now being 54, I can take a whole car apart and put it back together,
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My flag nut experience involved the driver's side rear shock on my 2000 Expy. Just as I got the bolt out it decided to end its cruel existence by leaping from its assigned spot. Luckily I had on my handsome glasses (safety) and the razor sharp edge added a nice ding right over my eyeball. Those glasses hang in my shop to remind me to put the things on every time.
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Should a 2017 really need that much work? I get the brakes, but the suspension and blower motor problems on a vehicle that new seem ridiculous. I don't know. I never had anything that new. Haha
By the way, I had a rental Trax while my car was getting body work from getting hit in the rear. That's gotta be the worst car on the road.

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I never replace just the ball joint on these type cars. Just my own preference plus if you are getting the work done ( cant do it yourself ) the control arm might need to come out anyway to press the ball joint out and the time will eat up any money you saved buying the ball joint alone. Like I said, just my preference.
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It's got bad everything. (Because it's a fall-apart GM). There fixed it for you. It's like folks like to pay more for less. How GM sells as many vehicles as they do after the repeated garbage they put out is mind boggling, but then again look at the state of our government. People like punishment I guess!
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I wanted to be the Official First Person to complain about how you mix synthetic grease with other grease
What you should do is, send out a sample of the old grease to the Automotive: Forensics Unit, or as we mechanics know it A: F U, for testing just to make sure your lube is compatible.

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my non sponsored napa shop here in canada replaced the control arms both sides twice under warranty in my kia soul abosolete junk got a year give or take out of each pair the tech cut one of the old ball joints open 0 grease it was like a dried saw dust they where from napa china junk
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I worked on a 13 Ford Escape. Put lower control arms on. I remember tightening both pinch bolts for the ball joints. I may have over tightened them. 2 weeks later the car got towed in with the 1 bolt missing. I will now replace them with new and torque every one that comes through
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It only takes once of getting your knuckle cracked and having your whole arm go numb and then on fire with pain.
Okay, twice, for some of us.
I do love it when the flag breaks off the nut though. It only does it when the nut is inaccessible, however. Every. single. time.

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Please don't leave stuff lose for the alignment guy. If we don't adjust it we may not tighten it. The fact is we get paid to align it. Not go behind someone's work Making sure every bolt and nut is tight. Then when it's not done they blame us like we did the work.
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I had 8 nuts to take off once, they all came off except the last one the guy i was helping sprayed oil on it, it stripped all the threads. impact will vibrate some rust off but if you put oil on it the loose rust will not vibrate off, stays in threads.
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I guess I have been out of the mechanic trade too long, I quite frankly cannot understand the torque sequence, why torque them, then tighten them to a certain degree of rotation instead of just tightening them to the final ft/lb of torque.
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Fantastic as always, Eric. I've actually gotten pretty good at control arms on some 2000's era Lesabres and that translated to doing them on an older Honda. Nothing like experience followed up by a tutorial from a pro. Thanks as always, Eric!
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That penetrant might not actually penetrate seized threads, but it does make life easier once you are running a nut over exposed threads. Eric O, you delight in knowing some commenter is banging his forehead on the keyboard! --so do I!
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your militarized disrespect for the penetrating oil religious crowd, the safety sally crowd, and the factory torque spec crowd is music to my years. Keep doing your great work, and thanks for bringing us along on your daily grind.
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love your content Eric! i watch your buddy rainman also but i tend to skip through his videos because they are too long. ive come to realize its not the repairs i enjoy its the humor and wit that keeps me watching the entire video.
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Eric, you're taking way more trouble than the monkeys at GM took. I noticed the bushings were exerting downward pressure on the control arm when you popped the ball joint. Evidence says the OEM torqued them in the lower position.
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