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zakruti.com » Auto & Vehicles » Scotty Kilmer
This Car Almost Killed My Customer

This Car Almost Killed My Customer

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Rating: 4.0; Vote: 1
This Car Almost Killed My Customer Buk Lau: Hi Scott I just bought new Honda Accord 1. 5 turbo sports. I am Having brake issue, there is a dead gap when you press the brake pedal. It's like you are doing brake check the person behind you. I looked up online some other Honda owners are having the same issue. They are saying it could be failed brake booster. Can you lookup into this issue? And help us figure what to do next?
Date: 2019-06-07

Comments and reviews: 9


A real mechanic would know to remove the lower ball joint only (on this particular model) And the car in this video had a very worn out lower ball joint and should have been replaced with the axle replacement. The way he did it in this video puts the camber alignment off, so now you need to double check the alignment. The strut through bolts are not splined/captured. A real mechanic making a how to vid would at the very least give a critical install mention such as. when you put the inner cup back into the transmission, you should turn it to make sure that the splines line up BEFORE you whack on it with a hammer If you simply put it in the transmission and hit it with a hammer as suggested by this guy, you will ruin your new axle and your transmission. And the final portion of this madness is. The axle was already popped out of the transmission and so was the steering outer tie rod end. Any self respecting mechanic would never whack on the open threads of a outer tie rod you are not replacing, with a sledge hammer He could have at the very least shown the nut installed but at the beginning of the treads before hitting on it, the very fact he just tapped on it and it simply popped up illustrates it was already loosened, plus you can visually see it. Same as the axle pop out segment. The axle was already popped out of the transmission before he recorded the segment. Anyone who can do a 2 handed job while looking at a video camera. already had it prepared to look super easy. If you take this video verbatim, this is what you can expect. camber alignment off (need alignment now), need a new outer tie rod and a possible transmission rebuild. But I will stand behind him on 1 aspect, it is a simple job. Normally about 15-20 minutes start to finish. That is if you do it right
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Hi Scotty. I watched your video on quick strut. WOW. Well listen to this. My car was making a noise when you turn the wheel like somebody was hitting the spring with a hammer. Well come to find out one of my good friends said it was the upper strut assembly. So I took it in to Dunn tire because I bought my tires there and I just wanted to have them look at it and give me an estimate. They said that it needs two new struts and springs. And when they do that they also need a wheel alignment. Total was 1298. 00. Yes can you believe it. So needless to say I was all upset. I dont even have 1200 to work with. So I called my buddy up he said bring it over and on your way get an upper strut mount. So I did. The upper strut mount cost me 45 at Napa and its a good one not a cheap garbage one. It took my friend about an hour to put again reason being we dont have power tools and everything was rusted to gather. But we got it together and I gave him 50 and he was happy about it. Hes a true friend so I got my car fixed and everything works fine for under 100. And Dunn tire wants to charge me almost 1300 wow What a rip off. And they wanted to put in the garbage quick struts like you said. When I confronted him before I had my buddy do the work. I asked him why cant I just put in an upper strut mount he said oh well I am I dont know that might work but probably not in in the long run it would break. Wow what a bunch of BS. Scotty thanks for all your videos they are very informative and keep them coming thank you
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I'm glad you made this video. It is a good job that a beginner can do. I have had to use a slide hammer with a CV joint adapter because one was on so tight that a pry bar would not work. If you don't have an air impact, or an electric one. while the wheel is on the ground, use a breaker bar, and step on the handle to break the nut loose. It also helps if you are like me and have to shop for clothes in the Los Gordos section of the store. Get some weight on that breaker bar. It worked for me until I bought an air impact.
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When it sounds like a bad CV joint but isn't: I've seen a loose wheel weight hitting a metal wheel cover and it sounded exactly like a bad joint when turning. If the noise sounds like a bad CV joint when turning but more noticeable when going over a bump or pulling out of an uphill driveway be sure to check for loose bolts in the support subframe (if so equiped. Actually, while you have the car up in the air you should check the entire front suspension for loose or worn parts. they won't get better by themselves.
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Hi Scotty, I was laughing today thinking about you because I asked my mom what car my dad had before his Camry, which was before I was born, and it was a 1979 Toyota celica. After the Camry we had a Toyota previa van that we drove all over the country. When we turned it into Toyota they couldnt believe we still had it and it was running. It was smoking at that point and we called it smoking joe.
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Hey Scotty, Ive been keeping my eye on a 1984 square body Chevy Silverado regular cab. It has 64k miles and is sold overall, with a few leaking seals and a mistimed engine. I was considering selling my 02 Ford Escape with 118k miles for it as an every-day driver. I want to learn about trucks. Is this the way to do it or should I keep the ford and hold off on the Chevy for now?
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A Toyota nearly killed your customer? I can't believe you admitted it I wouldn't be caught dead in that shitty little thing. It's about the worst car I've ever seen. How anyone ever could have bought that little generic thing is beyond me, especially in Texas. I guess Texas has ultra-patriotic people that drive real cars (American) and ultra-dweebs that drive trash like this.
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Two things to note here. 1. hit the side of the knuckle with a hammer instead of the actual tie rod stud to remove it, to avoid damaging the tie rod threads. 2. Remove lower or upper ball joint from knuckle instead of strut bolts to avoid needing a wheel alignment afterwards, alot of cars now adays use eccentric strut bolts and removing them will throw out your alignment.
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I did one of these on my old Altima. Found out that in order to change the axle on one side, I had to pull the axle on the other so I could put a long rod into the transmission case and tap it out. It was like having to do change both to just change one. I should have changed both because I had to do the other one 6 months later.
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