Doing This Will Make Your Car Accelerate Faster
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Date: 2019-05-28
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Comments and reviews: 9
Frank Murray
Hi Scotty from England. This is a bit off the subject. I run a 2004 Nissan X Trail automatic petrol 2 Litre. I was over in the States two years ago and didnt see any over there, so you may not be familiar with them. I guess the engine and transmission may have been used on other models. Its been a great car. The automatic box is so smooth and quiet and for a 4 by 4 it just glides along the road. You have condemned the transmission on some Nissans, but Im hoping these are later cars? I have one very minor problem. When I start up from cold its lumpy for about 5 seconds. almost like its running on three. (out of the four cylinders) This has only been happening for a week. Then it runs perfectly and when I start up from hot its as good as ever. I changed the oil and air filter recently, but not the spark plugs. I havnt looked at them yet. Once in a while, if the engine doesnt catch straight away from cold, it wont start. I leave it for an hour or so and its back to normal. This maybe happens twice a year. Im wondering if I have some glitch with the automatic choke. Funnily enough I had that same very occasional starting problem with a Toyota Yaris which was otherwise bullet proof. I bought it from new and sold it 12 years later with the original battery and exhaust. The only thing other than tyres and sevicing was replacing the shocks. 90, 000 miles on the clock. Incidently I tried your tip using silicone spray on the window rubbers. It works very well. There is a noticeable difference in the windows up and down speed.
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Hi Scotty from England. This is a bit off the subject. I run a 2004 Nissan X Trail automatic petrol 2 Litre. I was over in the States two years ago and didnt see any over there, so you may not be familiar with them. I guess the engine and transmission may have been used on other models. Its been a great car. The automatic box is so smooth and quiet and for a 4 by 4 it just glides along the road. You have condemned the transmission on some Nissans, but Im hoping these are later cars? I have one very minor problem. When I start up from cold its lumpy for about 5 seconds. almost like its running on three. (out of the four cylinders) This has only been happening for a week. Then it runs perfectly and when I start up from hot its as good as ever. I changed the oil and air filter recently, but not the spark plugs. I havnt looked at them yet. Once in a while, if the engine doesnt catch straight away from cold, it wont start. I leave it for an hour or so and its back to normal. This maybe happens twice a year. Im wondering if I have some glitch with the automatic choke. Funnily enough I had that same very occasional starting problem with a Toyota Yaris which was otherwise bullet proof. I bought it from new and sold it 12 years later with the original battery and exhaust. The only thing other than tyres and sevicing was replacing the shocks. 90, 000 miles on the clock. Incidently I tried your tip using silicone spray on the window rubbers. It works very well. There is a noticeable difference in the windows up and down speed.
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therightstuffAK
To the person with the heater issue, check the heater core for a piece of foam stuck inside one of the 2 coolant channels. 2011 Mazda 6 V6, had this exact issue of no heat at idle and only while accelerating would heat work on the passenger side of the car. Replaced heater core & I found a piece of foam insulation from God knows where stuck in it. Thats after removing the whole engine to replace seeping water pump. This was covered by warranty, but heater core wasnt. Never buy an extended warranty because they BS their way through not paying for an obvious failure. They told me that they only pay to replace an item if it is not performing its intended function. I said its intended function is to heat the car & its not doing that. 1, 300 out of pocket & a completely removed dashboard later, discovered the problem. Also this was before 36, 000 miles but was in 2015 so the extended warranty kicks in at that point.
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To the person with the heater issue, check the heater core for a piece of foam stuck inside one of the 2 coolant channels. 2011 Mazda 6 V6, had this exact issue of no heat at idle and only while accelerating would heat work on the passenger side of the car. Replaced heater core & I found a piece of foam insulation from God knows where stuck in it. Thats after removing the whole engine to replace seeping water pump. This was covered by warranty, but heater core wasnt. Never buy an extended warranty because they BS their way through not paying for an obvious failure. They told me that they only pay to replace an item if it is not performing its intended function. I said its intended function is to heat the car & its not doing that. 1, 300 out of pocket & a completely removed dashboard later, discovered the problem. Also this was before 36, 000 miles but was in 2015 so the extended warranty kicks in at that point.
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KcEmmanuel12 Savage
scotty. I have a 2003 Cadillac CTS 3. 2l V6. When i run the codes, its just all 4 oxygen sensors, which im going to replace soon. BUT im having this issue where somtimes this car wont start. Youll turn the key and you hear absolutely nothing. Unless you look under the hood, youll hear a high pitched noise. So to start the car, you need to bypass somthing. I dont know what Im bypassing but its a PURPLE wire in the fuse box in the engine wiring harnest. I slip a wire down on its connector, then tap the battery bolt terminal on the fuse box, and the car starts up. Then ill drive it. Turn it off. And itll start up without having to bypass anymore. Then suddenly the issue will return. & i have to bypass my way to a start. Was woundering what you think this issue could be? I had the codes read. I just have simple 02 sensor codes. All 4 of them.
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scotty. I have a 2003 Cadillac CTS 3. 2l V6. When i run the codes, its just all 4 oxygen sensors, which im going to replace soon. BUT im having this issue where somtimes this car wont start. Youll turn the key and you hear absolutely nothing. Unless you look under the hood, youll hear a high pitched noise. So to start the car, you need to bypass somthing. I dont know what Im bypassing but its a PURPLE wire in the fuse box in the engine wiring harnest. I slip a wire down on its connector, then tap the battery bolt terminal on the fuse box, and the car starts up. Then ill drive it. Turn it off. And itll start up without having to bypass anymore. Then suddenly the issue will return. & i have to bypass my way to a start. Was woundering what you think this issue could be? I had the codes read. I just have simple 02 sensor codes. All 4 of them.
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Bryne G
Hey Scotty, my friend just bought a brand new BMW 5 series, after driving around in it for a short while, the engine started sounding rough, was idling badly, and alot of white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. He brought it back to the dealership and they held his car for some time while they gave him a loaner. After a while, they told him he would be getting a brand new engine, air flown from somewhere in Europe. BMW simply refused to tell him what the problem was, even after weeks of insisting he had the right to know because it was his car, his other friend in the automotive industry said that if big problems got public, a recall would be financially disastrous. Is this what car manufacturers are doing now? Censoring news of defects?
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Hey Scotty, my friend just bought a brand new BMW 5 series, after driving around in it for a short while, the engine started sounding rough, was idling badly, and alot of white smoke was coming out of the exhaust. He brought it back to the dealership and they held his car for some time while they gave him a loaner. After a while, they told him he would be getting a brand new engine, air flown from somewhere in Europe. BMW simply refused to tell him what the problem was, even after weeks of insisting he had the right to know because it was his car, his other friend in the automotive industry said that if big problems got public, a recall would be financially disastrous. Is this what car manufacturers are doing now? Censoring news of defects?
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adam morton
The person with the 03 civic and no heat. you have a leaking head gasket. I have the same car and had the same problem and refused to believe it was the head gasket, but there was a small leak and the exhaust gas was pushing coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank and would get sucked back in all the way when it cooled down. Slowly lost coolant and heater didnt work and car ran hot. Sometimes wouldnt start bc coolant got into the cylinders. Its the head gasket. I used some head gasket sealant and its been good for 50, 000 miles now. I would advise the same as the car isnt worth the cost to fix it.
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The person with the 03 civic and no heat. you have a leaking head gasket. I have the same car and had the same problem and refused to believe it was the head gasket, but there was a small leak and the exhaust gas was pushing coolant out of the radiator into the overflow tank and would get sucked back in all the way when it cooled down. Slowly lost coolant and heater didnt work and car ran hot. Sometimes wouldnt start bc coolant got into the cylinders. Its the head gasket. I used some head gasket sealant and its been good for 50, 000 miles now. I would advise the same as the car isnt worth the cost to fix it.
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Abdul Rehman Khan Sherwani
Scotty Kilmer Scotty I had question about catalytic converters and resonators. Maybe if my friends recommended me to completely remove the catalytic converter and resonators because we dont have a pollution code where I live. Pros: Better gasMore powerMore soundIm not sure about the cons, only thing I could come up with was messing up the original flow of the car, or not keep it the it was supposed to be. Im pretty sure Ill get a code because of the post O2 sensor, so is there away around it? Please let me know if you would recommend this, why or why not. Thank you
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Scotty Kilmer Scotty I had question about catalytic converters and resonators. Maybe if my friends recommended me to completely remove the catalytic converter and resonators because we dont have a pollution code where I live. Pros: Better gasMore powerMore soundIm not sure about the cons, only thing I could come up with was messing up the original flow of the car, or not keep it the it was supposed to be. Im pretty sure Ill get a code because of the post O2 sensor, so is there away around it? Please let me know if you would recommend this, why or why not. Thank you
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Murtaza Qadri
hey scot, i cleaned my throttle body yesterday and after starting the car it idled pretty high at 2000 rpm. so after the car warmed up i gave it a few aggressive revs and the problem was solved. whats actually worrying me is, when i was just driving around this morning my car idled a bit rough for a few seconds while driving, so i shifted into neutral gave it a few revs and that fixed the problem. why do you think the car idled rough?
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hey scot, i cleaned my throttle body yesterday and after starting the car it idled pretty high at 2000 rpm. so after the car warmed up i gave it a few aggressive revs and the problem was solved. whats actually worrying me is, when i was just driving around this morning my car idled a bit rough for a few seconds while driving, so i shifted into neutral gave it a few revs and that fixed the problem. why do you think the car idled rough?
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M C Anderson
I remember Hondas first CVT transmissions on the Civics were shuddering on acceleration. Honda gave us a quick fix and instructed us techs to replace the fluid, then burnish the clutch by brake torquing for a minute or so, then replacing the fluid, brake torquing again, replace fluid, rinse, lather and repeat a third time. Basically, just fry that clutch up until the high spots burn off, drain the contaminated fluid and refill. lol.
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I remember Hondas first CVT transmissions on the Civics were shuddering on acceleration. Honda gave us a quick fix and instructed us techs to replace the fluid, then burnish the clutch by brake torquing for a minute or so, then replacing the fluid, brake torquing again, replace fluid, rinse, lather and repeat a third time. Basically, just fry that clutch up until the high spots burn off, drain the contaminated fluid and refill. lol.
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SWEN TACTICAL
Scotty the oil pressure gauge on my 2011 suburban went to zero pressure over the weekend. Checked oil level, was ok. Chevy Dealer said it is the oil pressure sensor. Part is 80 and 3 hours labor is 700. Whats the danger of not changing this pressure gauge? Is it critical? The dealer says the engine can put itself in a low run mode if I dont change it? Thoughts? Can I get by with out it?
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Scotty the oil pressure gauge on my 2011 suburban went to zero pressure over the weekend. Checked oil level, was ok. Chevy Dealer said it is the oil pressure sensor. Part is 80 and 3 hours labor is 700. Whats the danger of not changing this pressure gauge? Is it critical? The dealer says the engine can put itself in a low run mode if I dont change it? Thoughts? Can I get by with out it?
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